Crazy 4.5 mm Nacre

jshepherd

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As most of you know, we've been slicing a lot of pearls over the past few months as Hisano builds up her geode and finestrino collection.

At the ruckus she showed off a Tahitian geode with black diamonds. It wasn't that large, maybe around 12 mm. But the nacre was crazy. It was several millimeters thick. I figured it was one of those random pearls that had a really happy oyster momma.

But as we've been slicing more of this batch -- pearls we pulled for this from a big lot of mainly drop peacocks -- we're finding most have insanely thick nacre.

Sorry for the poor camera phone shots (didn't realize how blurry the first one was until now), but this is a 14.5 mm pearl, and the nacre is about 4.5 mm thick -- that's 9 mm of total nacre.

The final photo is the reason she's slicing the pearls. This one is set with a bit over two carats of black diamonds.
 

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Amazing Jeremy, are these random pearls or from particular farm?
 
*insanely great*

Elizabeth
 
This is really heartwarming to see. Quality (of everything) is not usually what one would like and to see that the nacre thickness goes so above and beyond what's necessary from both a legal and practical point of view is a real pleasure. That pair of earrings is stunning. Elegant and modern. Brava, Hisano!
 
Stunning earings, so very creative, I am lost in admiration.
Fascinating to see the pearls cut too.

PS
Excuse my ignorance but what are black diamonds?
 
This was an auction lot, all Rikitea, where we know the finest colors come from. I don't know if it were a single producer or a mix. I am leaning toward the latter because the lot had over 5,600 pearls and was an A/B lot. That's a lot of A/B separated pearls -- a single farm would not likely do something like that.

The nucleus just popped out on this one. Hisano and sliced it and when I saw it I grabbed it because I couldn't believe how thick the nacre was. I grabbed a pointed digital caliper to measure and when the point touched the bead, it twisted right out. I did the other with my finger.

Regarding the weight, nacre thickness isn't really going to make a difference in weight. The nucleus has to have the same density as the nacre (which is why shell is used) so that it doesn't expand or contract at different rates in different temperatures -- that would crack the nacre. Pearls heat up a lot when you drill them.

I've actually fielded that question quite a few times related to akoya pearls because there is a piece of bad information out there on the 'net that claims thicker nacre on akoya means they weigh more and pearls are sold by weight.
 
The finished earrings are lovely and that is a lot of pearl nacre.
 
Jeremy, thank you so much for all the fascinating "behind the scenes" details ... and Thanks to Hisano for adding extra beauty to these pearls!
 
So, so pretty! this is such a creative way to use pearls, i love that they look just like little geodes :)
 
Those earrings are gorgeous...I have to say, I am so tempted by this new design. I love the drops on hoops. I have to ask, not knowing much of how pearls are "created" it looks as if the top (or bottom in the finished design) nib had it's own nucleus. What occupied that space before it was set with diamonds? It looks like the pearl was well on it's way to being round by looking at the white ring around the middle of the nacre field.
 
Wow that is a really great couple of shots - I can't believe the nacre is so thick! How long would you estimate it took to cultivate nacre layers that thick? Four years?
 
Jeremy, are the geode earrings going to make another appearance on PP? I came so close to buying your favorite pair, but the price was out of my range. They were still great to drool over though.
 
Wow. Also, I love her vision. Seeing what you don't expect to see is fun.
 
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