Tom Stern's natural pearls

I am coming late to this conversation:

Gorgeous Pearl! Thank you for sharing your wonderful pearls with us!

Mikeyy you are funny! Thanks!

Cheers
Ash
 
Labs

Labs

Hi, all,

I heard a rumor that on June 2-4, major pearl testing labs will meet in Bahrain to debate the various issues. Anyone else hear that?

Best to all,
Tom
 
Interpol

Interpol

Quote:
Originally Posted by smetzler
They clearly know who has been submitting the samples and are openly calling the use of Pen pearls fraud. Wouldn't be surprised if the information has already been given to Interpol or the like.

Hi, Steve,

I'll ask around if any law enforcement agency has been alerted. Jewelers Vigilance Committee, of which we are members, may be able to push this through the US Department of Commerce enforcement divisions.

Anyone who buys a pearl that on testing has such fraudulent findings should contact me with details. I'm not talking about Keshi, which I doubt any lab reliably tests, but bead cultured foisted as naturals.

Thanks for comment,
Tom
 
Now I want to further refine the category of pearls that confuse me in that I do not understand how they can be called cultured.

Let's consider 2 very large pearls, say 20 mm. The first has an interior void that occupies 25% of more of the pearl by volume, with several mm. of nacre. On xray, the finding is a very large black hole surrounded by nacre. This type of pearl I do not want to talk about now.

The second type of 20mm is 99% nacre. On xray no black void can be seen, only the finest of central lines which sometimes can require 20 or more views to detect. It is this type of pearl I would like to have someone explain in detail as to its formation and why it is cultured, i.e. at what stage did the hand of man become involved, and answer my questions above. I know the theory that the fine line represents the residuals of a collapsed pearl sac. Now, considering the realities I posted above, how can one call such pearls cultured?
Please, all of you scientists, explain why the laboratories who see this fine line believe it is proof of culture.

Tom, I am not a scientist but have been thinking about this and have wondered if it would be possible for a pearl culturer to plant an natural seed pearl either a natural tiny or 3 or 4 mm natural to bead an oyster. It is not entirely impossible to find 5 or 6 mm totally Natural Pearls either that could be used to instigate this fraud. Or in the case of non round or baroques to implant a small keshi pearl and would that give the impression that man had nothing to do with the culturing process.

There are many seed pearls of varying sizes around. Please note the photo of my SS round so callled keshi pearl in the Trade thread. If that could not be used as a nucleas I don't know what could be. And out of that lot I probably received many 3 and 4 mm perfectly or very close to it round pearls.

Also what about the Akoya natural Seed pearls that are around. Couldn't they be used to do this very sneaky so called non cultured work. I think I have some on the way to me and will report when I receive them. They are either SS seed pearls or akoya natural seed pearls. But either way this is seems to me entirely possible and if I can find seed pearls in various sizes quite easily then they are around and could be used for this purpose.

Caitlin once asked me to advise how to find good buys on eBay to all members. It didn't get much further than that for various reasons, but I do have an eye for such things and gravitate to them. If I put in the time (a lot of it) I can generally find these little or not so little naturals.

Of course I do not know what the X-rays would look like but has it been investigated, the possibilities. It does seem like a natural progression to me. I have thought ages, or years ago that it would make a great pearl never thinking that it could be used to deceive but of course it could be.

Please do let me know ALL of you experts what you think of this. I am not racking my brains just letting little nuggets of thought to hit me at the weirdest times. Guess this is a subject that needs to be aired. If someone has not done it already and just maybe they have then surely it could be done.

I think it would make beautiful solid (well sort of) pearls but only if a full disclaimer was made.

Please take this as serious. I do. I am very interested in this and the other Trade Thread and find it very interesting. Just wish I understood all, which I don't and never will.

Tom I would also hope you can answer this post as I can understand your frustration and do meditate or similar on such problems and come up with little ideas such as I have put here. No a scientist but a thinker all the same.

Hope I haven't mis-spelt anything too badly because I have no intention of checking.

Dawn
eBay Seller ID dawncee333
 
I don't think this issue is what is something beaded with, it is full disclosure that makes no claims to be natural but says, "beaded with pen pearls", or beaded with CFWP. In fact, if the pearls developed on pinna pearls don't crack, it would be a very green use of otherwise useless pearls. Bunches of CFWP could be seeded with poor pearls tumbled into round shapes, or grown in gems or whatever, but just tell the truth, don't use the cachet of "Natural" to enhance the price. This latest ethics issue calls for another look at the standing regulations and they say plenty.

Don't use "natural" to sell any pearl unless it has been proven to be natural. Saying "Natural" about an unproven pearl is false advertising. It is what the court battles were about in the 1920's.

In fact, if you had posted pics of your naturals here without the claim, many of us would have guessed they could be natural. But few would buy unless they paid considerably less because they aren't proven. You need to remember, that I was one of the ones who bought into the Rann's fantasies about her fraudulent pearls. I was a big fool. I am still eating crow. So sorry when I get tough; I view things through the prism of people selling me their fantasies. I no longer trust other people's fantasies when it comes to pearls.

That your pearls are natural is a fantasy unless you have the p-work to prove it. To call possible naturals for sale natural is wrong when it is not known, but usually they are also old and therefore can't be anything but natural so call them old. (I have worked with Dawn a lot since this post and she has developed her eye for natural and/or antique pearls during this time. She charges less than if certified and stands behind her opinion with no time limit, if certification should prove her wrong.)
 
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Shell lesson #1

Shell lesson #1

Dear All,

Princess Yolanda, who is our chief malacology expert, has initiated an education program for new members of our team. I plan to post these as they come out. As background, there are tens of thousands of varieties of shells in the Philippine seas. Diligent study of them is important for people identifying pearls.

Tom

Lesson No. 1

Genus: PINNIDAE. Also called Pen Shells, Fan Shells, Wing Shells. Sometimes they are called Razor fish or Razor Shells because they have very sharp edges and cut feet. They live in shallow waters and many animals live inside them including sponges, shrimps, and crabs. There are 2 species that live in 20 M among the coral reefs and even scallops live rent-free in them. Sometimes a Pinna field is an ecosystem all its own!

The Atrina Vexillum is the most well known Pinna because it can grow to 40 cm. The Philippines has an incredible number of species. In the Visayas alone 14 varieties have been identified and many other varieties are yet to be catalogued and identified. They come in different colors and sizes. They are hunted for food in many parts of the world, but none of the Visayans I interviewed ever eat them. It is safe to assume that Pinna pearls come in different shapes and colors and they have one thing in common: Pinna Pearls have natural crack lines and ridges. The sometimes look like black, brown or white amber.

Most of the pearls from the Pinna, in my experience, give away their host by their spots, colors and crack lines. Since Pinna's come in different colors, the pearls do too. The shells are delicate and when held against light, are translucent.

Have nice day!
Princess
 
Societe des Perles Fines Natural Pearl Society

Societe des Perles Fines Natural Pearl Society

Hello, All,

After a huge amount of work, Jim Grahl and Chase Reif of Southern California have the website for the historic Societe des Perles Fines Natural Pearl Society just about ready to go live. SPF aims to promote awareness of the science and beauty of natural pearls.

General Membership, as I understand it, will be free; but there are some sections that require registration fees. Once the website is up, all of that information will be available.

This is the first worldwide society of Natural Pearl experts and pearl lovers. I will submit the URL shortly.

Sincerely,
Tom Stern,MD
Founding Member, SPF
 
Natural Pearl Society

Natural Pearl Society

Hello, All,

After a huge amount of work, Jim Grahl and Chase Reif of Southern California have the website for the historic Societe des Perles Fines Natural Pearl Society just about ready to go live. SPF aims to promote awareness of the science and beauty of natural pearls.

General Membership, as I understand it, will be free; but there are some sections that require registration fees. Once the website is up, all of that information will be available.

This is the first worldwide society of Natural Pearl experts and pearl lovers. I will submit the URL shortly.

Sincerely,
Tom Stern,MD
Founding Member, SPF

Dear All,

Other key people in the formation of Societe des Perles Fines, a Non-Profit Organization incorporated under California law, include David Porter, Carlos Chanu, Tom M. Stern, Andrew Schoenecker, and Yolanda O. Stern. Everyone has contributed time, money, or both.


the URL is http://naturalpearlsociety.org

Sincerely,
Tom
 
I read your pages that are up so far. How cool. I was also thinking that if Princess Yolanda sends any more malacology writings this way, I'd love her to have her own thread. Thanks so much for remembering us. Shells are the passion that send some people to pearls. They are such magnificent creations!

Your pages look like they will be an excellent teaching tool.
 
Nautilus Pearl

Nautilus Pearl

Hello,

Societe des Perles Fines Natural Pearl Society, a California Non-Profit Corporation, will post photos of the Gubelin Collection of natural pearls that were given to GIA at the time GIA acquired the gem collection of the Gubelin Laboratory. I had the opportunity to view the natural pearls at the GIA Museum in Carlsbad. In my opinion, the collection if exhibited to the public would be a wonderful primer on natural pearls.

Also, I now have two Nautilus Pearls with GIA cert.

www.NaturalPearlSociety.org

Best regards to all,
Tom
 
Princess Yolanda

Princess Yolanda

I read your pages that are up so far. How cool. I was also thinking that if Princess Yolanda sends any more malacology writings this way, I'd love her to have her own thread. Thanks so much for remembering us. Shells are the passion that send some people to pearls. They are such magnificent creations!

Your pages look like they will be an excellent teaching tool.

Hi, Caitlin,

She says she is honored by your offer, and will submit to her own thread. Please contact her at YolandOStern@aol.com to guide her through the process of getting started. She does have another article ready.

Happy 4th of July!

Tom
 
I wrote to Yolanda. We'll get her set up with her own user name. I am very excited about this and thank you so much!

I just got the letter bounced back! I simply clicked on your link so maybe it is wrong?
 
Pteridae

Pteridae

Pteridae
by
Dayang Dayang Yolanda Stern
for Societe des Perles Fines Natural Pearl Society​


The Family Pteridae proper is misunderstood often. Most of them live in the coral reefs because they like the currents where the reefs survive best. The Pteridae delights in consuming the foods that these currents provide. You will find them hanging on to corals or in banks where corals thrive.

The most well known Pteridae is the Pinctada Margaritifera or "BlackLip" because it produces the famous black "Tahitian" pearls under cultivation or in the wilds. In Pinctada maxima with gold rims I find the most beautiful goldens produced in the Philippines, perhaps due to the conducive environment.

The other really well known Pteridae is the Pinctada Maxima, which produces the famous South Sea Pearls in Yellow or White under cultivation or in the wilds.

In the Gulf regions, and in the Philippines, the Pinctada Radiata is really famous for its small pearls most popularly known as the "Basra" pearl, a name that stuck because Basra in the old days, was the pearl trade center for the Gulf. It produces white and champagne pearls 2-4mm and occasionally bigger.

The interior of the Maxima and the Margaritifera are wonder worlds in themselves. I pass by our collection and never cease to delight in the contours and colors of these wonder wombs that can give birth to pearls.

The other Pteridae that is becoming well known is the Pteria Penguin which is found clinging to giant whip corals as far down as 20 m. It has beautiful silvery MOP and the pearl it makes is quiet beautiful.

There are so many species of Pterias, each one quite unique in shape and color, but testing laboratories are simply certifying pearls as Pterias without specifics, because they lack the experience of the mollusks themselves.

The Philippines is home to many species of Pteridae, many have been identified and they are as beautiful and varied in shape and colors as I assume their accidental or cultivated pearls would be. Some Pteridae live among poisonous hydrozoa and are so well camouflaged among the corals that they are very difficult to spot. The animals themselves are dazzling and often look like clusters of nutibranchs, like the one you picked up when we were tide-pooling at night with the octopus fishermen. We thought they were aquatic pine trees but you knew better!

The following are known to be cultured: the Maxima (white and yellow) , Margartifera (black) , Radiata (small white and yellow). I heard that the Penguins are now being cultured for their blister or "Mabe" but I have not yet found a farm that does this.

We will try to match our pearls with a more exact science of collecting the shell with the pearl to combat the contradictions among the Labs. While labs are lately excruciated by the beadless or "soft tissue" nucleated pearls, they are wrong in saying that all beadless pearls are cultured. Those of us who lived with wild pearls disagree. Collectors also need to understand that most wild pearls are baroque and very rarely perfect spheres like the old "basra" pearls.

Have a nice day!

Princess
 
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The most well known Pteria is the Pinctada Margaritifera…

The other really well known Pteria is the Pinctada Maxima…
A quick clarification might be required for those who have understood that Pteria and Pinctada are distinct genera.
 
Pteridae family

Pteridae family

A quick clarification might be required for those who have understood that Pteria and Pinctada are distinct genera.

Yes, Steve.
Family: Pteridae
Genus: Pterias...with hundreds of species or shell types
Genus: Pinctada...with hundreds of species or shell types

Thanks,
Tom
 
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