Arts & Crafts, Art Nouveau and Art Deco

[whicker]

Thank you, Paul!

In looking at the backs, it seems that there is movement allowed in the design. Would this give the tremblent, (sp?) effect? Please would you explain the choices in the mechanics of the design? I'm quite curious, and I've never had a chance to see that effect before. It is such beautiful workmanship. The back is gorgeous.

 

[kiwipaul]

Hi whicker, well there is certainly lots of movement in the 1st, 2nd and 3rd pieces with their pearl "dangles".

Interesting that pearls have been chosen for that role. Of course they're still in the period (1900-1905) when cultured pearls were unknown and all pearls were naturals, and especially highly regarded.

The 3rd pendant is particularly mobile, as it has two dangles and also hangs from a bail that is a pivot point. As it's reasonably large with a good weight it hangs and moves well.

However I think the term "En Tremblant" applies to jewels where a component like a diamond setting is on a tight hidden spring, so that once it is set moving it keeps bouncing around, see this link at the great Lang Antiques Jewelry University http://www.langantiques.com/university/index.php/En_Tremblant

It is noticeable with all our Liberty & Co. jewelry how well it "wears", versus some art nouveau jewelry looks fabulous, but is somewhat impractical to wear.

 

[whicker]

Thanks, Paul,
I read about royal tiaras being designed "en tremblant", and a few brooches and a ring. Would you like to talk about the versatility of the those period designs? The tiaras could be used as necklaces, brooches, earrings, etc. They could be taller with all sorts of interesting spires, or pieces removed to make them lower. I guess it depended on the protocol of the occasion. How did they make them comfortable to wear?

Thanks for the Lang site. I'll enjoy reading it

I would love to see design versatility now. Why have one look when it could have many? I'm in search of a clasp for a fireball necklace currently..

 

[kiwipaul]

Hi whicker, I'm not really qualified to talk about tiaras, I've only seen them in books and a few times on the UK version of Antiques Roadshow. The comments on the Roadshow suggested they were so out of fashion that unless they have a particular association with royalty or a famous person they're usually more valuable broken up for their diamonds and gems, seems a shame.

From the few times I've seen them on Antiques Roadshow I think some did have the versatility you're discussing.

I seem to recall some had a little screw driver or key to assemble them onto other components including a jeweled hair comb that kept them in place, and this comb arrangement sometimes formed part of the visible tiara.

I think these combs sometimes stood up as part of the tiara and some had a tremblant feature on top.

You'd need to be in a fairly exclusive social set to get the opportunity to wear one!

 

[whicker]

Actually, I do move in a fairly exclusive social set. I could use a tiara for grocery shopping, or picking up feed for the horses. We can wear the feather "fascinators" at the steeplechase races, as we watch the horses run..

 

[Katbran]

Thanks so very much for the beautiful photos Paul. That boulder Opal and pearl broach is just beautiful ! Really interesting thread!

 

[BeadersSecret]

Thanks so much for sharing WOW! And for all the interesting information.

 

[MSC]

Love love love Archibald Knox, your opal pendant is a work of art!