Gluing and Fittings

[BeadersSecret]

There are a few threads on the merits of different glues, epoxy - super glue etc.
I thought I would throw into the mix the importance of the fitting used.

The fitting plays a big part, if the post is too short this will shorten the life span of the piece of jewellery.
1) The Post should be at least half the length of the pearl.
2) The pearl should fit nice and snug to the post, but not overly tight or this will defeat the purpose of gluing.
3) The Post should have ridges, a twist, or criss cross indentations for the glue to bond to.
4) Cleanliness The Post and cup should be very clean. You can have the best glue at hand, but if the surfaces aren’t clean you have wasted time and effort.

 

[Katbran]

Bernadette - thanks very much for this , it's excellent information.
And.. if you know a source here in Australia for good stud findings...send me a message lol

I have found it annoying that many companies, regardless of the size of the cup you order, have a little short peg that barely clears the lip of the cup.

 

[ericw]

Your advise is very important, Bernadette: any bonding will not work without to clean surfaces, especially degreasing them carefully. Acetone is the best to do, not dangerous for pearls and metals. Most advertisings about glues show irrealistic performances without to properly prepare the surfaces by degreasing and pickling them.

 

[Lugana]

Acetone is the best to do, not dangerous for pearls and metals.

I'm sorry to interrupt, but acetone is deadly to pearls.

 

[SunSeeker]

I have used acetone to remove Sharpie markings. Is there a better product to use?

Thanks for your tips, Bernadette. I will also use a file on the posts if I feel it is too smooth.

Katbran, I share you annoyance. I also wish there was more variety with longer posts, especially to use with souffles and fireballs.

 

[Lugana]

I have used acetone to remove Sharpie markings. Is there a better product to use?

Sorry, I must have wrongly expressed myself) I suppose if you wipe something with acetone quickly and then thoroughly wash the remaining off the pearl, it should be all right.. it doesn't make acetone safe to use on pearls though (as ericw suggested). I now re-read his comment though and I suppose he also didn't quite mean submerging pearls in acetone or using it for routine cleaning, but rather referred to the fact that the posts cleaned with acetone would be harmless to pearls. Aaaanyway I'm very bad in morning reading))

Why you use Sharpies on pearls btw?.. Just out of interest

 

[JerseyPearl]

I have understood that acetone and Attack are both safe to use on UNTREATED pearls. If using these products, please be sure to take caution by wearing gloves and eye protection, and use in a very well ventilated area.

 

[Red]

Why you use Sharpies on pearls btw?.. Just out of interest

You use Sharpies when working with the pearl to mark the drill hole, or which side you want facing out after setting. It’s essential when I’m working with my jeweler to mark the pearl with my preferred orientation, so I won’t be surprised/disappointed when I come to pick up my finished piece.

 

[Lugana]

You use Sharpies when working with the pearl to mark the drill hole, or which side you want facing out after setting. It’s essential when I’m working with my jeweler to mark the pearl with my preferred orientation, so I won’t be surprised/disappointed when I come to pick up my finished piece.

Thanks for saying that, makes perfect sense now)) I was confused at first, because I use normal pen to mark the pearls for drilling, but since we don't send the pearls over the marks have to survive only a few minutes or so. For a distant jeweller that would have to be more permanent of course)

 

[Pearl Dreams]

Yes, there is a big difference between soaking in acetone and just wiping. Wiping with acetone to clean off glue is safe. That said, I have never used it on a color treated pearl.

Soaking in Attack is safe; I had a pearl soaking for a whole week once before the glued finding released.

 

[ericw]

There is no interest to bath pearl in acetone to degrease it. Just to wipe it with is suffisant... BUT, if the pearl is dyed, acetone would be able to take off dying.
Acetone is one of less dangerous chemical solvents, less than ethanol itself... BUT, acetone vapor is heavy, and stay just above the floor, without any sign of presence. This concentration can be very dangerous because easily flammable, so, caution is to aerate the working room.
Be careful; I talk about true acetone, not nails enamel solvents, made with many other chemicals than acetone, even without acetone at all, often, because acetone is drying nails (and maybe pearls, after a long time to bath).

 

[Pearl Dreams]

Also if using Attack, the fumes are dangerous. Soaking must be done in a well sealed container that is impervious to the solvent. I used a Ball canning jar-- the lid has a rubber seal.

 

[jshepherd]

There are a few threads on the merits of different glues, epoxy - super glue etc.
I thought I would throw into the mix the importance of the fitting used.

The fitting plays a big part, if the post is too short this will shorten the life span of the piece of jewellery.
1) The Post should be at least half the length of the pearl.
2) The pearl should fit nice and snug to the post, but not overly tight or this will defeat the purpose of gluing.
3) The Post should have ridges, a twist, or criss cross indentations for the glue to bond to.
4) Cleanliness The Post and cup should be very clean. You can have the best glue at hand, but if the surfaces aren’t clean you have wasted time and effort.

Post length is really important and some manufactures really skimp on the peg. It's the most important part of the setting to hold the pearl in place, too. We've had to request specific peg length when purchasing.

One trick for gluing that works really well and should be added to this is the way the glue is applied. If you hold the post at a downward angle and are able to "ball" the epoxy at the end of the peg and then quickly and accurately stick the peg directly in the hole, you won't get any overflow and the glue will be where it belongs - in the hole covering the ridges on the peg.

If the glue doesn't ball at the ends and goes into the cup, almost all the glue will overflow and there will only be a thin connection between the cup and the pearl - very little on the post. And you have to spend time cleaning up the pearl after gluing due to the overflow.

 

[JerseyPearl]

Post length is really important and some manufactures really skimp on the peg. It's the most important part of the setting to hold the pearl in place, too. We've had to request specific peg length when purchasing.

One trick for gluing that works really well and should be added to this is the way the glue is applied. If you hold the post at a downward angle and are able to "ball" the epoxy at the end of the peg and then quickly and accurately stick the peg directly in the hole, you won't get any overflow and the glue will be where it belongs - in the hole covering the ridges on the peg.

If the glue doesn't ball at the ends and goes into the cup, almost all the glue will overflow and there will only be a thin connection between the cup and the pearl - very little on the post. And you have to spend time cleaning up the pearl after gluing due to the overflow.

Gravity is our friend! This is exactly the method I use. I find it easier to grasp the non-glued portion of the mounting (ie; not the peg) with a pair of locking tweezers. One thing to mention as well, make sure the post has a textured surface. The more texture, the more surface area the glue has to hold on to. I have on very rare occasion, had to trim a post because some findings do have super long pegs. You do want a super tight fit, but not so tight that you'll force the peg into the hole. And I completely agree that a degrease is necessary before applying any glue/adhesive to the component. Acetone works well for this.

 

[SunSeeker]

Thanks for the detailed description of your process, Jeremy. This is the technique I use as well, but it does take a bit of practice to fine tune so that you instinctly know the exact amount of glue to use. (At least it did for me!)

 

[SunSeeker]

You use Sharpies when working with the pearl to mark the drill hole, or which side you want facing out after setting. It’s essential when I’m working with my jeweler to mark the pearl with my preferred orientation, so I won’t be surprised/disappointed when I come to pick up my finished piece.

Yes, preferred orientation is exactly what I was referring to.

 

[pattye]

What a useful discussion Everyone; sure beats the trial and error method; thanks for bringing it up, Bernadette, always timely.

Rating this thread at the top of the page will help us find this info again when we need it most!

 

[ericw]

Without to forget that one of the worse enemies of a good bonding is dust, and nacre dust staying in pearl holes after drilling it is. I use thin paint brushes N° 0 or 00, I rotate in the hole to take off it. Pressurized air can be used too, but often put also water in hole, bad for a good gluying.

 

[JerseyPearl]

I've found success with wrapping a piece of tape around a needle or wire, sticky side out. I then insert it into the drill hole to clean out any dust. For fully drilled pearls, you can also temporarily string them on wire or thread and move them around a bit.

 

[ericw]

Tape is a good idea, Jersey Pearl, it must be thin to enter in small holes' diameters. Anyway, a good bonding ask to put glue on each part to stick, it's one of first rules to make that, so using a thin glued wire to do (carefully because burrs risks) inside pearl hole, and move it around as you explain for cleaning full drilled pearls, is not a bad thing.