To Ream or Not to Ream....

[LBoone]

I like to use the largest thread possible when knotting pearls, and I really don't like using crimp beads or clamshells. The larger thread means I can't get it through the first pearl twice (which I need to do to use french wire) without enlarging the pearl drill hole on at least the first and last pearls of the strand. I have a couple of reamers and have been doing this on all the inexpensive freshwater pearls I've been stringing. Some Akoya pearls that I re-strung already had this done to the first and last 3 pearls of the strand.

But I have now been asked to string an expensive strand of freshwater pearls. These are really large, round pearls for which the person paid $700 wholesale. The most expensive pearls I have strung up to now cost $100 a strand wholesale, so this is a big jump for me. He is providing me with the pearls and 14kt clasp to have strung. To use the silk I want to use (size 6 or 8) I am going to have to ream out those pearls. But I am nervous about this. What do you all think? Does that "ruin" the pearl in your opinion? Is this something that is commonly done? This same client will likely have me string some Tahitians for him around Mother's Day, if he likes what I do with this strand. Would you ream out a Tahitian or South Sea? If not, how do you get the silk through the pearl twice to use the gimp? I really think size 4 is too small to look right with these large (the center pearl is 14mm) pearls.

And one more question while we are discussing this strand. He is having them done for one of his clients. who I happen to know. She is an average size person. She is asking for them to be strung out to 15 inches because she says she has a thin neck. While she is not overweight she is certainly not thin, and even if she was I think these pearls are too large to be comfortable when worn for an average person strung to that length. I have suggested 17 inches, but would consider 16 or 16.5 maybe to be ok. I think that even if she can normally get a 15 inch necklace around her neck that she is not thinking about the circumference of the inside of the necklace and how uncomfortable this is likely to be. Not to mention that I just don't think that Wilma Flintstone look will be flattering. Am I over thinking this?

Advice and comments please!!! Help me before I have a nervous breakdown over this...... ;-)

 

[pattye]

LBoone,

What kind of thread are you using? The Griffin Silk with the needle already attached?

 

[Marianne]

Hi LBoone,
Take a deep breath
Sounds like you are using Griffin Silk, due to your referencing the size by numbers. I think that it works great if one is going to leave the cord exposed and pace out feature stones, but I was never happy with the knots it produced between pearls….. the 2 ply just did not yield a smooth knot like the 3 ply Gudebrod (no longer being produced). When working with larger pearls, I have been using Beader's Secret. The #30 weight Pattye carries in her etsy shop makes a lovely tight knot and does not stretch out like silk is prone to when stressed by larger beads or longer necklaces. I have only had to do some slight enlargement of a few end pearl holes… (depends on how they are originally drilled). Seems like the only reason to use a larger cord would be to make a design statement. The Beader's Secret is certainly strong enough (use it doubled) to carry 14mm pearls. Just my 2 cents worth.
Best of luck to you. Relax and have fun. Knotting under stress tends to put knots in the wrong places

 

[pearlescence]

If you are indeed using Griffin type silk 4 is certainly strong and big enough for any pearls...although for very large ones we generally switch to one of the synthetic silks such as nylon or high performance to obviate stretching. We also use these synthetics with those customers who manage to break their strands monthly.
If you are stringing for someone selling the pearls then don't worry about how they will look. just do what they order (and if it all goes wrong and more pearls are needed you get a second fee!)
We enlarge the drill holes for the first two or three pearls from 0.7mm standard to 1mm which is barely noticeable except to a very practiced eye when the necklace is apart, but is fine for a double pass with size 4. In fact 0.9mm would probably do just as well but I have yet to find bits that size!

 

[MSC]

Just a thought: if these are cultured pearls, then wouldn't you just be drilling through the center bead and not really through nacre as you would with natural pearls? If that is the case, then I can't really see enlarging holes affecting the value. I use C-lon micro nylon cord for knotting; the size is 0.12mm, but I don't know the size comparison to the thread you've been using.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

I use Pattye's Serafil thread (from her Etsy shop) or Beaders Secret thread (from the Etsy shop of that name) also. When I want a larger knot, I make a double (overhand) knot.

To make this knot, you just pass the thread through the loop a second time before pulling it tight. (I prefer to use a pair of tweezers when doing this to be sure the knot goes where I want it.)

 

[LBoone]

Thanks for the replies everyone! I am indeed using Griffin silk with the attached needle. I think I will will try some Beader's Secret as well and see how I like it.

I have plenty of size 4, as I use it most of the time, but I like the look of a larger knot with the larger pearls. I think I will try as suggested and see what a double knot looks like. I will also be less anxious about reaming out that pearl, I mean it's not like I'm making that hole into something that 16ga wire would fit through!!! ;-)

As for the short stringing, I guess you are correct. I seem to be the only one that is worrying about this. The gentleman that is selling the strand says "she wants 15 inches, make them 15 inches. If they are too short, that is her problem." I just don't want this to reflect on my stringing. I guess I have said my bit, so if she comes back and says she needs them longer I can just give them an "I told you so look" (I wouldn't say it out loud....) and get another stringing fee for the same strand. I think if I didn't know the person I wouldn't even say anything, it is just that this person is NOT thin (she's not fat either, just "average"). She says she has a thin neck, I see her at least once a week and I wouldn't call it thin by any means. It is appropriate for her size.

 

[GemGeek]

Interesting discussion. I can't wait to see if the volume of pearls will fit on her neck!

 

[Pearl Dreams]

I also think she may find the strand a bit tight.

Probably it never occurred to her to consider the inside circumference, but since the seller chose not to discuss the matter with the customer, then really the only thing you can do is to make the strand 15" as requested and let the chips fall where they fall.

 

[pearlescence]

It's one to keep well out of.

 

[pattye]

In this thread on Pricescope is a discussion on "how to use 3 threads of Beader's Secret for large hole pearls and heavy pearls"

 

[pearlescence]

You are making the market on Beader's Secret thread Miss Patricia!
Brilliant!

 

[Marianne]

It really is good stuff! Off now to knot up a 72 inched.

 

[pearlescence]

I just got some 4m griffin in - that would be a looooooooooooong rope indeed!

 

[Katbran]

I agree with everyone here about the length of the necklace...you've had your say and now just do what they have ordered. Personally I think he should have had her try on a short necklace with large size beads of some sort so she could see how it will fit...

I've been using Beaders Secret for the past few months..so easy to knot...just slides into place..wish they did make a slightly larger size..but the three strands works well to get a decent sized knot.

Be interesting to know how this story ends...do tell us !!

 

[waimeamomi]

You have a lot of good advice on thread, but I think size 6 is the largest I would use. As for reaming, what are you using? If they are as large as you are describing and as expensive, are the bead nucleated? I would be afraid to enlarge without a drill, but I don't know about reaming.

 

[BeadersSecret]

On the subject of secret beaders thread, I use the finer version of this.

I use four threads in the colours only (I still use Kaygee in white). I mostly finish off with a drill hole size of .9mm

As I have mentioned in numerous threads, I use jewellers cutting broaches when I have to go up one mm in size and it is certainly not detrimental to the pearl.

Question for Wendy Pearlescence when you use .4 Griffin cord what hole size do you end up with when you finish off?

 

[LBoone]

You have a lot of good advice on thread, but I think size 6 is the largest I would use. As for reaming, what are you using? If they are as large as you are describing and as expensive, are the bead nucleated? I would be afraid to enlarge without a drill, but I don't know about reaming.

Sheryl: I use a combination of bead reamers that I have. One is a very inexpensive, very thin one set into a wooden handle, I also use one with a larger tapered reamer that is collet set into a nicer handle. It takes a LOT of time to do it this way, I basically just keep working with the tools and a glass of water until I can get the silk through twice. I actually don't know anything about reaming, except what I've learned from doing it! I don't have a drill......

For small pearls that just need a "boost" to get the silk (or a head pin) through, the small, inexpensive one does the trick pretty quickly. I have had some pearls, particularly coin pearls, that seemed to have something in the drill hole that obstructed a head pin, even a small one. This does a pretty good job of knocking that down.

And I am SURE these are bead nucleated, even without cutting one open. I personally have never seen any freshwater pearls this large that weren't, although I guess there could be some....

This is the inexpensive one I use from Fire Mountain. I usually buy several at the time, along with a lot of other items so I can really get the price down!!

http://www.firemountaingems.com/itemdetails/H201539TL

I have also used one like this:

http://www.firemountaingems.com/itemdetails/H201590TL

I think I got the one with the handle from Stuller,

 

[pearlescence]

Lboone what you are picking up inside the drill hole where a needle or pin catches is where a two drill drill is slightly out of alignment and has left a tiny burr. Try turing the pearl around so you are threading from the other end, sometimes that works..or you have to give the hole a quick woosh with a 0.7mm bit (or ream). While the drill I and many of us use has one bit and we have to turn the pearl over to drill half the hole, busy pearl factories use drills with two bits where the tips meet in the middle. It's nifty kit.
The other time for using a drill is when some silk, usually with a knot, gets jammed into a hole when a necklace is being taken apart for re-stringing. Again, quick woosh.
Bernadette, we drill out to 1mm. I daresay 0.9 would do but I have yet to find a 0.9mm drill bit. I've just ordered some size 5 and 6 because some tahitians are drilled to 1mm and the knot can go partway into the hole.

 

[waimeamomi]

Wendy, we have .9mm, .8mm, .7mm available here. I usually use an 8mm, but have much larger bits for leather, etc.