SSP Philippines

Cees mentioned about treated golden pearls, so can anyone tell me how treated or dyed golden South Sea pearls look like? And how to differentiate it with the untreated one?

I recently came across bunch of loose south sea pearls in deep gold color, they were not uniform in color (slightly different between each pearl) but I chose a pair that is quite matching in color, luster and size even though surface isn't perfect. For some reason, I didn't ask about any treatments (always thought only freshwaters and Akoyas are treated)... but now I'm wondering about them as this pair has quite intense color.

Btw, the pearls are from Lombok, Indonesia. So maybe it's off topic, I'm sorry.
 
Greenhills is such an interesting place; but always shop with caution. I remember several years ago (when I did not know anything about pearls), I was sold a pair of "baby South Sea" pearl studs for something liks US$150. It was a gift for my cousin. Now I know (on hindsight) that they were 10mm Chinese freshwater pearls that are probably a couple dollars each. The "baby South Sea pearl" is still an on-going unscrupulous practice (scam) in Greenhills. I admonish the sellers when they pass off "baby SSPs". I tell them that it is incorrect to pass of FWPs as "baby south sea". Most of them will just nod or even apologize, but some will argue it out saying that it is common practice to use the term "baby south sea" for the larger "quality" Chinese FWPs. I counter that it is an unscrupulous practice saying that south sea is south sea and freshwater is freshwater, period. They should disclose the correct classification to their sellers. Unfortunately, the practice continues. My other pet peeves are the fact that they use the term "Mikimoto" for akoya pearls, and that they use the term "Tahitian South Sea Pearls" for tahitian pearls. They also avoid saying "Chinese" or "China" when you ask them what type or from where are their freshwater pearls. There are, of course, other sources of FWP like Bangladesh, however most of those being sold in Greenhills are definitely Chinese in origin. My biggest pet peeve is that they say that FWP are produced in the Philippines. This is a big misconception and it is being perpetrated by Greenhills sellers and other jewellery sellers. In the "Filipiniana" (local souvenir) section of a big department store like "SM", I see Chinese pearl strands and earrings that are labeled "Freshwater Pearl - Product of the Philippines". When I quiz the sales staff and tell them that we do not produce freshwater pearls they insist that we do produce freshwater pearls, particularly in Palawan. That is why some people get shocked when I tell tell that we do not produce freshwater pearls; we produce south sea pearls.

I guess part of this misinformation stems from the fact that locally produced South Sea Pearls are not very visible. The main reason is that they are quite valuable relative to FWP, so the latter is more marketable and within reach of the general populace. I was able to talk to the owners (company heads) of two large south sea pearl farms. One has their farm in Mindanao and he says that most of their output is sold to Japanese and European bulk buyers. The low quality "rejects" are sold to a couple of local dealers. These pearls eventually end up with local jewellery outfits (mostly in Meycauayan, Bulacan - the jewellery-making capital of the country) and with the Greenhills sellers. The other pearl farm is located in Palawan. Since the company is also a high-end jewellery retailer, the best quality pearls from the farm are used to make fine jewellery pieces. The rest are sent to their sister company in Hong Kong. The low quality pearls are also sold to a dealer who supplies the Greenhills sellers. Most of the Philippine pearl farms' output are sold by bulk to foreign buyers. This is more convenient for them. However, Jewelmer and Hoseki are vertically integrated that some of the pearls from their respective farms end up in their showrooms.

An interesting Greenhills development I've observed lately is that there are sellers that are offering Australian SSPs. I encountered a couple of stalls that have white Australian SSP strands. They looked like A+ or AA quality pearls priced north of US$5,000.00. I also see better quality Tahitian pearl strands. I guess the market is asking for better quality pearls and that the suppliers of Greenhills are getting more sophisticated.

Greenhills is still a fun place. However always shop with caution. Ask questions and bargain. It hepls to do your homework or bring someone who knows about pearls.
 
Greenhills is a rip off joint, especially if you are a westerner. Their favorite selling lines are "mikimoto strand", "baby south sea", "from the farm in mindanao". There are honest sellers, but to find them it requires repeated trips and buying to know who is honest. If they see you as a one off customer they will tell you outrageous claims. All the dealers in greenhills get their pearls from hong kong jewellery fairs or kobe indian pearl dealers. Dont believe for a minute they get them from their own farm in the south.

But that said, you can find good deals if you know your pearls. Best time to shop there is the week or 2 before the hong kong show as they want to raise money to go buy new pearls, so bargain hard. They would rather get the capital back on something not selling so they can buy something else.

Also their rental there is quite high. As much as having a regular shop front. Don't be afraid to bargain.
 
I just returned from my second trip to the Philippines. The first thing to note about the Philippines is that everyone has pearls. All of my Filipino friends and clients agreed that Green Hills was the place to buy pearls. I was fortunate to meet a wonderful Filipino women who had a great set of 14mm South Sea earrings and necklace. She explained to me that she spent approx. $10,000 USD on her South Sea necklace- and cautioned that I should go with someone who knew what they were doing in order to not be taken advantage of. I've since been too Green HIlls twice, and I can explain the process. Green Hills has what seeems like 100 pearl stalls. There are definately fake South Sea pearls there, and there are definately real south sea pearls there. There are many reputable pearl stalls. I highly recommend Noni with the Pearl Store (I believe stall 70).

I've now bought from several Pearl vendors- both FWP (Fresh water) and South Sea. For my own purchases, I purchased a 14mm pair of White South Sea Pearl Earrings for approx $250 USD. It started off at 13,000 Pesos, negotiated down to 8500. At another reputable vendor, I went to my Filipino friend's jeweler and bought a gold set (13 mm) with silver backs (I could have done gold- but didn't see the point on spending the money on the backing) for $240 USD.

If you haven't been to Green Hills to the Pearl stalls, it is definately an experience. I've never seen anything like it.
 
Hi!

Albeit a bit late to respond, but future readers could still benefit---
Some pearl farms are owned by larger conglomerates like Hikari or other groups so the pearls for sure will go to their own manufacturing or polishing plants and their ready market. Some smaller pearl farms have tie-ups with people that join auctions in major trade fairs around the world; while some are supplying Philippine based jewelry designers that work with SSP. There is also a group of Philippine pearl producers and exporters that help the industry find buyers for the produce. On that note, most of the super pearls are exported to ready buyers abroad (some on consignment basis). Those that are left in the local market are still beautifully crafted into finished pieces, as I have mentioned, locally. Others then find their way to Greenhills or other pearl bazaars (Alabang). Have a look at major Filipino-owned or Philippine-based jewelry chains; you will find that there are SSPs in their collection.

There was some support from the government for the Philippine pearling industry but I am not sure to what extent that has helped. When I say pearling industry; ley produce different types of pearls not just the golden SSP. Some smaller pearl farms have closed down; others have reduced their oyster level. Just like most industries, unless the pearl farms are supported financially due to the risks associated wit the production, only the strongest or most determined survives.

I hope this helps.
 
Hi All,

Saw this old thread. XD Just to contribute, yes there are a lot of freshwaters sold as SSP in ghills.
But there are a few stalls that will sell you legit High quality SSP, white and golden. High quality meaning, no visible bite marks. and great color and shape!

Now finding these stalls can be a bit of a task, so if you're ever going to ghills, message me up! I'll try to give you some tips. :)
 
They have tried to replicate Greenhills in a newer part of the town, Bonfacio Global City. There are probably 20 stalls or so, in Market!Market! The inventory is limited, 99.9% CFP; the quality is so-so. On the bright side, the vendors are less likely to use hard-sell tactics and the prices are 20-40% lower than GHills.

Vendors in both markets never heard of Keshis, Kasumis, and Edisons. Interestingly, in GHills, I saw humongous pastel FPs which could be well be Edisons.

If any of you are in town, let me know; I'd like to tag along. It could be a great learning experience for everyone.
 
If you find a trustworthy pearl seller in Green Hills let us know :)
 
As I posted some remarks about Greenhills before and I can tell you I like this market, it is the market where I first bought South Sea pearls. August 2013 I went back with a a stock which I tried to sell there. The conclusion of that trip was that my pearls were too good and too expensive for Greenhills. As Jewelmer and also other farmers keep a part of their harvest for themselves to produce high end jewelry, the rest goes to their Hong Kong office and regular customers. The best round golden South Sea pearls end up in China and Japan.

The sellers in Greenhills are only interested in big roundish pearls at unbelieveable low prices and you see them on the Hong Kong Fair searching for the lowest quality pearls. Only 3 or so sellers on Greenhills stock better quality pearls. There is no interest in big baroque pearls because they sell fresh water pearls from China instead. The loose South Sea and Tahitian pearls are the ones others use in strands as they they are too spotted for use in earrings,etc. Golden South Sea pearls I would not buy on Greenhills, nobody can confirm 100 percent if the pearls are treated or not. Most look treated and the untreated ones look like dulls Indonesian pearls.
Overall Greenhills is a nice market but the better South Sea and Tahitian pearls are difficult to find at reasonable prices.

But reports are also that treated golden South Sea pearls are the first ones to be sold on the Hong Kong Fair. But the reason is also that there is a shortage of golden South Sea and the prices are constantly going up. But also white South Sea and Tahitian pearls are going up a lot at the moment.
 
Out of curiosity, what are the signs of a treated golden SSP?
 
None. if the color is strong and you didn't pay a fortune, they are probably dyed. That said, getting the darker gold color without dyeing can be very hard. If they aren't drilled, it could be that only a lab can give you certainty.
 
You can find signs and (for the most part) a dyed lot isn't difficult to spot. First, as Blaire mentioned, if the pearls are a dark gold and inexpensive, that is your first clue. Dyed golds are inexpensive while natural-color dark golds cost a lot of money - think 3+ times the cost of light to medium gold. Light gold is substantially more expensive than yellow and yellow pearls are used to dye dark gold.

Dyed golds have, in my opinion, an unnatural gold coloration. You'll also often see concentrations of color in surface inclusions. You might also see a sort of "oil-slick fingerprint" that is indicative of a dyed pearl.
 
In a naturally-coloured SS pearl, Jeremy, does the colour remain constant throughout the layers of nacre? So if you could peal off layers like an onion, would each layer be similar in hue?

What causes the colouration?
 
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