Fake, cultured, real? Help!

Cat.s74

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Joined
Apr 14, 2015
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Hello all,
I am new to Pearl-guide-- trying to find out some information on a strand of pearls. I have no information about them at all. My father recently passed away and I found them in a box of jewelry. The string broke and they did not have knots in-between them so I had to re-string. The clasp says 14K. The photos are not very good. Any information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
 

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Hi and welcome to Pearl-Guide. Sorry for delay, I didn't see your post until now.

Your pearls have an interesting mix of qualities. At this point I'm leaning toward imitation but there are some tests you can do.

1. Wipe the pearls clean with a damp soft cloth, then gently rub 2 of them together. Genuine pearl nacre tends to have a resistant, very slightly gritty feel. Imitation pearls generally slide easily. This is also called the tooth test when one rubs the pearl against the edge of one's front tooth.

2. If you have a 10x loupe (or visit a local jeweler and ask to use theirs), you can look at the surface of the pearls. Genuine nacre looks very smooth at that magnification, while imitations look more coarse. It helps to compare what you see against a known-fake pearl you may have, or a known-real pearl (which the jeweler may be selling.)

The pearls seem to be graduated with the center pearl being around 7-7.5mm. This is typical of the "3.5 momme" strands sold in Japan during WWII and Korean War eras. Military men would buy them to bring them back to their sweethearts and wives. Their being graduated made them more affordable. More of these strands seem to be cropping up in estates now that the WWII generation is passing away.

Sometimes these strands were knotted at the clasp ends but not otherwise.

Imitation versions of graduated akoya strands were also sold.

So are they real or imitation?
• Real pearls are more likely to have slight variations in the shape in these more affordable strands, but I've seen imitation strands in which the pearls have slightly varied shapes (as yours do) to better imitate real pearls.
• Real and imitation pearls both tend to yellow with age and contact with skin oils, cosmetics etc, as yours seem to have done.
• While the gold clasp would tend to argue for their being real pearls, sometimes gold clasps are found on costume jewelry. Also, clasps can be changed. The original clasp may have broken and your parents had them restrung previously.
• Your father has held onto them, evidently caring about them, but so did my FIL hold onto the imitation pearls he gave his wife after she died. Yours were obviously well-loved and worn a lot; so were my MIL's fakes. (And my own mother's fakes, for that matter.)

So none of the above qualities are definitive.

I am leaning toward their being imitation, and this is why:

• Genuine pearls have small drill holes (to preserve weight, since pearls are sold by weight) but your strand has small holes on one side and quite large on the other-- like they were drilled straight through from one side to the other.
• In that last photo there seems to be some excess "nacre" near the larger of the 2 drill holes. Imitation pearls may have swirls of excess coating near drill holes from being dipped in the fish-scale and lacquer coating mix that simulates nacre. You can look at the other drill holes to see if they have any excess coating.
• The uniformity in their color, the lack of varied overtone colors in the strand, argues in favor of their being imitation.
• There don't seem to be surface flaws, which one would tend to see somewhere in a genuine strand. The only exception is the pearl in the upper right of photo 3 -- I can't tell if that is grime on the pearl surface or loss of the nacre or coating. Can you do a close up shot of that?

I just want to add that there is monetary value and there is sentimental value. Even if your strand is imitation, it mattered to your parents, and that gives it sentimental value.


 
Thank you so much for responding!! So informative!! And you said it best ---interesting mix of qualities!! The first thing I did when I got them was wipe them down with a wet cloth and I've done it several times. I thought the yellowing was from being old and stained but is it possible they are just that color? Do pearls that yellow even exist? and there are 4 or 5 of them that have some flaws like you noted in the 3rd picture. and about the nacre, almost all of them have "excess" near the drill holes but there is not peeling or flaking. So I tried to rub them together and I did feel a little resistance but no grittiness, if that makes sense! and one of them seems to look like it has a bead, I'll take a photo of that one and send it. I'll take more photos too. Thank you again for your information. I really appreciate it!
 

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here are a few more photos
 

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Well...I have to say they look like imitations. Sometimes with photos there's a bit of color distortion, but if they really are that yellow, they were probably that color from the beginning. The excess nacre-like coating near the drill holes is very tell-tale. I suspect closeups of the damaged surface on those few pearls will reveal a peeling imitation coating.

Imitation pearls can have a coating that is a bit skid-resistant for lack of a better word. I bought a large imitation strand a few summers ago (incorrectly marked as genuine FWP) that just didn't feel comfortable on my neck because it didn't glide over the skin-- the fake pearl coating felt grippy.

Here is a thread I like to send people to, with photos of imitations; it is surprising how realistic some of them can look:
https://www.pearl-guide.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7110

And yes, there are some pearls that are naturally yellow-- cultured Golden South Sea Pearls are the ones most people think of-- but those are large. Akoyas are sometimes a natural light yellow, but you don't generally see them because akoyas are routinely bleached. Freshwater pearls may be a yellowish-peach color.

Cultured pearls are also sometimes dyed to simulate the golden color of GSSP, and even GSSP are sometimes dyed to seem a deeper gold than they are (deeper gold color = more valuable when the color is natural.)
 
Welcome, Pearl Dreams has given you lots of great info. I agree that the pearls are imitation. The color is very consistent, plus the look of the drill holes indicates imitation pearls. They are pretty and I hope you will wear and enjoy them. Both cultured and imitation pearls are extremely fashionable these days.
 
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