Local Reviews of Cultured Pearls, cont.

Caitlin

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Dec 11, 2004
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I am an artsy crafty type, so I am not quite a retail customer, because I don’t usually buy finished products, I buy beads to make my own jewelry designs. I have handcrafted necklaces for many years as a major sideline, rather than as a full time professional, so I am not a true pearl merchant as are so many of the major contributors to this site, and I am not likely to become one. But, I do want to know my pearls better and this seems to be a great place to do that! I am doing this series of posts as a kind of journal of my own education in pearls. I hope my findings will help others learn about pearls and how to buy them.

I am educating myself so I can discern the best choice of pearls for me to invest in for my daughters. I live near Tucson and thus, can attend the one of the best Gem and Mineral Shows in the world held here every year. I will attend again this February. Most years, I have bought beads, findings, and “estate” jewelry. I have often bought the freshwater rice pearls and have them in about every color. This year I hope to get a real feel for the pearls-as-beads market so I am doing some preliminary scouting before I go.

In another post, https://www.pearl-guide.com/threads/a-review-of-freshwater-pearls-in-tucson.96/ I reviewed 2 different strands of freshwater pearls I bought at 2 local bead stores. Because neither strand was very good. I decided to start looking at some best quality retail strands.

First, I sent off to Pearl Paradise for one strand each of Freshwater pearls 7.5mm & 26”, no clasp and Akoya pearls 6.5mm & 22”. I thought they would be good teaching tools because they come with certificates stating what they are. Both of them rate as AA+ strands, so that gives me a basis of comparison.

I can wear Jeremy Shepherd’s AA strands to the Gem and Mineral Shows and have them right there to compare with others’ pearls! They came last Wednesday. I have been wearing them, holding them, and looking at them for a mere four days. They have, indeed, increased my pearl education. The freshwater pearl strand is very regular in shape to the eye and has a beautiful luster, but when it is put right next to the Akoyas, the Akoyas do look brighter and more spherical. The subtle but distinctly pink glow to the Akoya pearls makes my mouth water. I love the 6.5mm size and regret only that I did not get the longer strand! I am having a fantasy of owning ropes of these pearls to drape around my neck!

If I remove the Akoyas from direct comparison to the freshwater pearls, the fw pearls are very beautiful on their own. They are not as iridescent as my strand of potato pearls, but they do have a play of color on them that is lovely. They have little spots of turquoise and pink, rather than the diffuse but engulfing pink of the Akoyas. I really do like the slightly smaller size of the Akoyas, but I can be happy with this size. For the price, I can afford to wear these pearls everyday and I plan on doing so!

Yesterday, I checked out both the Wal-Mart and Target. I just looked at the necklaces they had on display for between $29.95 and $39.95. They were about 6-7mm & 16”-18”, white, and quite round to the eye. They did not have much surface blemishing such as dimples and bands, but they were truly boring. I believe “lackluster” was coined for these babies. No hint of iridescence like my Grade ‘B’ potato pearls. No over or undertones. Boring. They were the same boring white as the grade “d” round bead store pearls at $4-$5 a strand, though the bead store pearls were covered with bands and blemishes.

Then, I went to a local good quality 2nd hand furniture store in Tucson (Annabelle’s Attic in Foothills Mall). I saw some pearls in the jewelry case and looked closely at them. There was a strand about 24” long of fairly large- maybe 8.5-9mm fw potato pearls- for $395! Granted, they were charming and had the same liveliness as my bead store potato pearls, but I now knew that this price was not in line with the current market. They also had some “cultured” pearls about 7.5mm and 22”. The clerks were not familiar with the word “Akoya”, but the pearls looked old and yellowish. Ho Hum.

Next, I plan on visiting some high-end jewelers in Tucson and I will be looking at their selections of pearls. I look forward to sharing what I find here and hope you find it helpful or interesting.

I also keep a close eye on ebay sellers and can share some reviews of their wares too.

Happy New Year!

Caitlin Williams
 
Hi Caitlin,

It sounds like you have a real love for pearls! Not a lot of people can give such a detailed description of the differences between freshwater and Akoya pearls. It sounds as though you are really doing your research.
You are right in that with a high-quality strand of Akoya pearls it is very hard for a freshwater strand to compete. And if you bought the strand from PP it is definitely a high-end strand. I have been to their offices personally and was very impressed with Mr. Shepherd's ability to amass such an amount of that quality.
After reading a few of your other posts it sounds to me like you are interested in loose Akoya pearls as well. You should look to purchase these by the momme. As we farm and have our own factory we could probably help you with this here in Japan. But we typically only sell half-drills in momme lots of 25 or less. I would suggest contacting PP and asking about some small full-drill lots. If they are not already matched on hanks I am sure they would be willing to help you find some at very reasonable prices. They should have about 1000 momme in each size loose to use in finishing, not stringing. These are much more expenable pieces, and sure to save you a lot of money!

Good luck in your research. This Site is definitely a good place to educate!
 
Hi Kenji
How nice to see your post! Thank you for the tips on saving money buying pearls. I guess most folks who use this forum are not bead stringers, they are just looking for finished pearls or looking to find out what kind of pearls they already have, but I am enjoying my quest so much, I do not want to stop, yet!

It is plain to me that jshepherd is the go-to guy for pearls, but I want to look at everything else available, anyway. So, unless I get drummed out of here, you are looking at a self-appointed pearl reviewer!

I started looking for pearls on ebay. Frankly I did not trust the sellers' hype, so I went to the net where I clicked through on every advertised site on google. I read every "about pearls" and every "About us" on all the pearl sites I could find. I found JShepherd's site early on and was duly impressed with his passion for pearls and the linguistic and other skills he brings to the trade.

I googled "momme". A Japanese unit of weight equaling 3.75 grams or the weight of 100 yards of silk 45" wide. I am still not clear about what it is exactly or how to use it in a sentence if I were requesting pearls. "A momme lot of 25" is what?

I notice that people often cite the weight of a strand of pearls in advertising them. What is the purpose of this? Is it appropriate to weigh both freshwater and saltwater pearls?

Thanks
Caitlin
 
Here's a picture of my new Pearl Paradise pearls. One strand Freshwater 7.5mm and one strand of Akoya 6.5mm. I love them both.

I am disappointed with the quality of the photo but it was taken in natural light. Nevertheless you can see that the FW pearls are remarkably round and matched and have pracitically zero marks, blemishes. There is some velvet blocking off part of the FW strand that covers some of the roundness. Sorry! I will redo these photos!The strand of Akoyas is even better matched and very very round, but the photo does not show the pink glow.

May 2005 be the year of the pearl!
 

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It really is very difficult to photograph pearls. This is an art form. I know that Jshepherd has a small studio and a professional artist/photographer on staff who mainly just shoots pictures. They have some of the best pictures out there because of this. Most pictures I try to take typically look very similar to yours as well :) But I can really see the quality of the freshwater pearls in your pictures. Certainly top of the line.
The Momme is an old style of weight used here in Japan. Today it is used strictly for pearls. This is what we use in the industry when buying and selling. The price of the pearl is determined by the quality and the momme weight. When we buy large lots of pearls from other farms to treat in our factory we buy are large (momme) lot. Then we separate the pearls by quality. The more momme that are high-quality, the better price of the lot. We then calculate the total price of each strand based on the momme of each strand, the number in that quality, and the total weights of all qualities.
25 momme is just number of pearls which will vary by size. You are right that one momme is about 3.75 grams.
By the way, in China they deal in Kilo weight, not momme. So if you are buying Chinese Akoya pearls or Chinese freshwater pearls this is calculated by kilo.
 
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