Please, would you check my metaphors?

JMichaels

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The title of this thread refers to Il Postino, a movie where a postman asks Pablo Neruda to teach him poetry. Which is what I am begging your indulgence on as I do the same to you.

So I just completed Pearls as One (thank you @CortezPearls and @jshepherd - you are amazing and the course was fabulous) but I don’t work as a jeweler, and don’t have access to thousands of known pearls.

So I’m trying to work backwards, and see if I can apply my new knowledge to unknown pearls.

So, that brings me to the strand I’m asking for help on identifying. What I do know:
30”, world’s most generic 14k gold clasp, 6.5 to 7mm, definitely pearls.

So they have to be either Chinese freshwater or akoya.

Shape is Semi-round - although the standards seem a lot higher for roundness in akoyas, so if it is an akoya, it would be described as baroque. I don’t think I see potatoes, but too much trying to guess if it’s a potato pearl and eventually you’re Rincewind. So… odds are edging towards akoya?

Color - cream with a rosé overtone. As with size - not definitive for origin.

Good Luster - AA+ this is what saved these pearls from being shiratama. I could apply my lipstick looking in these lovelies. Not excellent - excellent is “who needs a mirror at all” in my internal grading scheme. But they do glow.

Moderately blemished. A or AA? Every pearl has at least one blemish. I think I see some blinking when I candle with my phone’s light (which is impossible to photograph with the phone) but I haven’t seen enough to be able to judge. And I think the second from the right on the top row in the close up picture of the pearls shows a pin prick. So, more probably akoya?

Nacre quality - A or AA? again, this is something that I don’t know well enough to judge. It doesn’t seem as thin as some 70s and 80s brittle strands I’ve seen, but I might have seen blinking, but I don’t know. So, I’m leaning towards Acceptable, but maybe NV?

Matching is… not good. A maybe. 106 pearls and maybe 5 share a body and overtone with at least one other pearl in the strand? But then, the one time I saw a hanadama strand at a jeweler, I thought the matching was barely good and the pearl lab said it was excellent, so my color perception might be the problem. Good or fair?


So, did I get it right? Is this an A quality (lowest acceptable quality) baroque akoya opera length strand? Or are there stealthy potatoes?
 

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Back for another round of “What is This Weird Pearl!” Featuring J, a magpie with a little education and a lot of weird pearls.
And This Pair:

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So, to start with, what I know for certain. 14k gold, 8mm

Size: 8mm, or maybe a little under, depending on where I put my calipers. At the small end for Tahitian, in range for CFW, and at the big end for dyed akoyas. I have had these for almost 20 years, so I don’t know if smaller Tahitians or rounder cfw would have been commercially available in ‘04-‘07ish

Shape: Near Round. It was 8.01 mm on one side and 7.96 on another dimension on the left pearl and 7.99 and 8.03 on the right pearl. Shape is inconclusive.

Color: The photos make them look darker than they are. In the nacre, they’re between charcoal and medium grey. Overtone could be Rose or Aubergine on the left pearl, and a slightly more greenish aubergine on the right pearl. Overtone is what I like to call subtle, although “barely visible in certain lights” would not be untrue.

Luster: Very Good. Light blurring around the edges but a lovely silky glow.

Surface Quality: small pinprick near the mount on the left pearl. So excellent.

Nacre quality: is there an easy way to check this? I didn’t see any blinking when candling, but I couldn’t really see the nucleus at all.

Matching: Good. Again, slight variations in overtone, but size is very close, as is surface quality and luster.

Overall, I would say that these are B+ or A grade, (because “not very colorful” doesn’t seem to count against the grade) and I want to say they are Tahitian, but only because all the dyed pearls I’ve seen go a lot darker than this pair.


How did I do? Would you say my guess is a fair one?

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Do you mean nacre thickness? While the nacre of white pearls is transparent, that of black pearls is not. Therefore, you would not see blinking. However, Tahitian nacre is typically thicker than that of akoyas.

As to other aspects of quality, it seems to me with Tahitians that what you see is what you get. You can judge with your own eyes whether the surface and luster are good or not. If there are overtone colors, these also will be obvious in diffuse lighting.
 
Do you mean nacre thickness? While the nacre of white pearls is transparent, that of black pearls is not. Therefore, you would not see blinking. However, Tahitian nacre is typically thicker than that of akoyas.

As to other aspects of quality, it seems to me with Tahitians that what you see is what you get. You can judge with your own eyes whether the surface and luster are good or not. If there are overtone colors, these also will be obvious in diffuse lighting.
Thank you so much!

I loved Pearls as One, but it’s definitely written for jewelers to know what they’re selling. I’ve picked up a half dozen books that have been recommended around Pearl Guide, and am slowly working my way through them, but some authors do assume a level of competence that I just don’t have.

I appreciate your time and patience as I try to figure out if what I’m looking at is actually what is there
 
Renee Newman has just come out with her newest pearl book-- it's on Amazon. I find her books very good for beginners. (I'm still waiting for my copy -- due to arrive on Friday.) This is the book:

Her books are beautifully illustrated. You can see photos of what really great pearls look like.
 
I’m back! Thank you for your patience with me and my weird “I’ve had this fifteen to thirty years and I’m not entirely certain what it is” pearls

This particular strand was purchased as a hank from a local silversmithing store (who had been a regular buyer at Tucson for decades) when they went out of business. They are definitely pearl


Size: Smallest pearl is 8mm x 9mm, largest is 9mm x 11

Shape: Baroque? Or would it be soft-baroque? They’re mostly ovals, with about 8 of them being lightly circled.

Color: A gorgeous charcoal grey, but some of them seem to have a mix of grey and brown body tones? Peacock, Aubergrine, and Rose overtones

Luster: Very Good. I can see my phone’s reflection in the photos.

Surface Quality: Good. Almost all the pearls have small pits, and several are circled. But the pits aren’t terribly deep?

Matching is good.


So I think they’re B+ quality Tahitians, with excellent luster. But the one thing that is throwing me is the size. Would it be possible to have bought tiny(for Tahitians) Ts back fifteen years ago? Or am I suffering from PSS, and these are normal for first graft? Or, are these colorful potatoes? (I do like my potatoes, it’s just that … well, I know what they look like. I have lots to compare them too. It’s the weird shapes and unique colors that throws me off)


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Just from the photos, they look like dyed freshwater pearls to me. The size, and the egg shapes, and the colors look like dyed freshies. I could be wrong, but that's what it looks like from your photos to me.

On the plus side, if they are freshies, they are 100% pearl nacre, with no bead nucleus.
 
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Just from the photos, they look like dyed freshwater pearls to me. The size, and the egg shapes, and the colors look like dyed freshies. I could be wrong, but that's what it looks like from your photos to me.

On the plus side, if they are freshies, they are 100% pearl nacre, with no bead nucleus.
Thank you very much. The thing that kept throwing me off was that they were grey, and I’m used to the dyed cfwp being much darker. (I’m not questioning you here! I’m apologizing for taking your time)

But hey, sturdy(ish) pearls are a good thing!

I really appreciate your time and experience
 
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