Natural Pearl Necklace Sells for World Auction Record $5.1 Million
- Thread starter Jacques
- Start date
Any pearls I have seen that have been recovered from shipwrecks are never as nice as the ones under discussion here lisa c. Being under water, often in metal boxes where they were stored, does the surfaces of "treasure" pearls no good at all. They come out quite "chalky" and white, but if these are Pinctada margaritifera I have never seen any from shipwrecks, so can't really comment on such pearls. Not difficult for SSEF or any other lab to state if P. margaritifera as they have a unique visible reflectance spectrum at 700nm that identifies the species.
lisa c
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Thank you, Orient. It's wonderful to have folks willing and able to share their knowledge here, the best.
I'm a barbarian though, so I think someone should take a kilo of those shipwrecked pearls and tumble/maeshori them - without pinking - to see how they turn out.
ok, a handful. Wouldn't that be interesting? Are they useful, otherwise? Maybe it's already been done, and has been published somewhere?
I think once upon a time Douglas said he thought in the wild waters they just eventually dissolve. (I'm not referencing his chlorine-bleach-dissolving demonstration, but another comment)
I'm a barbarian though, so I think someone should take a kilo of those shipwrecked pearls and tumble/maeshori them - without pinking - to see how they turn out.
ok, a handful. Wouldn't that be interesting? Are they useful, otherwise? Maybe it's already been done, and has been published somewhere?
I think once upon a time Douglas said he thought in the wild waters they just eventually dissolve. (I'm not referencing his chlorine-bleach-dissolving demonstration, but another comment)
Last edited:
pattye
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Reply from SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute
Reply from SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute
With many thanks to Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki, Director of Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF for the detailed reply to my letter, and an amazing revelation regarding this strand!
My questions, which hopefully addressed the topics of concern, are in italics.
"Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki
Today at 9:07 AM
Dear Patricia Saab
My staff member, Dr Laurent Cartier informed me that there is a lively discussion on the pearl-guide.com about the pearl necklace which recently sold at Christie's New York.
Being the director of the laboratory, and having analysed these pearls together with my staff, I would like to answer your questions and help to clarify the situation. Dr Cartier has not tested himself the pearls, but is working as a scientist and project manager at SSEF, therefore I allow myself to answer your questions below.
But first of all, I was quite surprised to see the extent of hypotheses which were drawn from an article by forbes.com, without checking the main resource, the Christie's catalogue of this sale
http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/...6778&sid=24f7ea2f-a7a2-418b-a34e-359881484edb
This would have probably shortened the extensive discussion quite a bit.
Just to summarize. this necklace consists of natural pearls of natural colour. In combination with their beauty, this may explain the world record prize it fetched at the auction.
Concerning your questions:
Were you able to personally examine these pearls, Report 78724, 3 March 2015?
Yes, but as it is the normal procedure at SSEF, there are at least two, but this case finally 4 gemmologists who have worked on these pearls as experts to finalize the result
Can you comment on the age of the clasp versus the age of the pearls? The clasp appears older, and more recently combined with the pearls.
On this we cannot comment, but it is a common practice to restring pearls and to combine them with a new or historic clasp.
How would you determine that this strand is not a mix of naturals, keshi and nonbeaded grafted pearls if they were drilled at the time of examination? Do you examine via xray all pearls or just a sampling? Is it more accurate to identify a natural pearl before drilling?
Pearl testing at the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF is based - apart from classical testing with UV light, microscopes etc. - on an advanced testing procedure, including X-ray radiography, X-ray luminescence, X-ray fluorescence, Raman microspectrometry, and in some cases X-ray microtomography and LAICPMS. Based on our expertise and state-of-the-art instrumentation, the SSEF since many years is worldwide the authority for identification of natural pearls, as can been seen when checking back important sales of natural pearls which come along with SSEF reports, e.g.the Peregrina pearl, the pearls from Gina Lollobridgida, the Cowdray natural pearl necklace, etc etc...
Pearl drilling may, in certain cases indeed make pearl identification difficult or even impossible. In cases which are not conclusive due to such a drilling-effect, it is the policy of SSEF to issue no report. However, it has to be said that in many cases, drilling will not completely destroy the internal features of pearls and identification and separation of natural pearls from cultured ones is still very much possible. In fact without this, there would be a major problem in the trade, as most of the pearls (if not freshly from a pearl farm) are drilled, especially historic natural pearls.
Concerning the identity of the pearls in this necklace, we have found internal features in all of these pearl consistent with those of natural pearls, and no such structures known for cultured pearls (e.g. non-beaded aso.)
We recognize that it would take a number of years to collect this many pearls. Is it possible this hoard belonged to a large producer of cultured pearls? If so, this could be why there was no provenance given for the necklace?
Concerning these pearls, they have been certainly collected over many years, as have also seen part of them several times at the SSEF over the years. This is for us very common, as as I said in the first answer, pearls are often restringed and each time need a new report, backed by a testing procedure.
It is not the policy of SSEF to comment on the report about the species of pearls, but based on our analyses, they are not Pinctada margaritifera, but from Pteria Sterna (Baja California), which has produced since centuries, and still is producing natural pearls in quite a quantity (apart from a small pearl farm production).
Do you know and can share approximately how many years it took to collect the pearls?
I cannot comment on this, but certainly this will take many years.
Do you know the species, origin and source of the pearls?
See my answer to question 4.
For those interested to see what SSEF is doing in research on pearls, I suggest the Pearl-Guide readers to check out our website: www.ssef.ch
In the section Research and publications, there is lots of pearl-related information, including pdf files of presentations and papers about DNA fingerprinting of pearls, age dating of pearls, new pearl farm methods, X-ray microtomography of pearls....
I hope with this, the all open questions are clarified and wish you all the best.
PS: Although I am not often reading the Pearl-Guide, I think it is a perfect platform to exchange news and information and to get excited about pearls, which are for me after so many years of research still a wonder and treasure of nature.
Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki
Director
Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF
___________________________________________________________________________
SWISS GEMMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE - SSEF The science of gemstone testing?
Aeschengraben 26
CH-4051 Basel / Switzerland
tel. +41 61 262 06 40
fax.+41 61 262 06 41
e-mail: michael.krzemnicki@ssef.ch
homepage: www.ssef.ch
___________________________________________________________________________
Reply from SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute
With many thanks to Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki, Director of Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF for the detailed reply to my letter, and an amazing revelation regarding this strand!
My questions, which hopefully addressed the topics of concern, are in italics.
"Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki
Today at 9:07 AM
Dear Patricia Saab
My staff member, Dr Laurent Cartier informed me that there is a lively discussion on the pearl-guide.com about the pearl necklace which recently sold at Christie's New York.
Being the director of the laboratory, and having analysed these pearls together with my staff, I would like to answer your questions and help to clarify the situation. Dr Cartier has not tested himself the pearls, but is working as a scientist and project manager at SSEF, therefore I allow myself to answer your questions below.
But first of all, I was quite surprised to see the extent of hypotheses which were drawn from an article by forbes.com, without checking the main resource, the Christie's catalogue of this sale
http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/...6778&sid=24f7ea2f-a7a2-418b-a34e-359881484edb
This would have probably shortened the extensive discussion quite a bit.
Just to summarize. this necklace consists of natural pearls of natural colour. In combination with their beauty, this may explain the world record prize it fetched at the auction.
Concerning your questions:
Were you able to personally examine these pearls, Report 78724, 3 March 2015?
Yes, but as it is the normal procedure at SSEF, there are at least two, but this case finally 4 gemmologists who have worked on these pearls as experts to finalize the result
Can you comment on the age of the clasp versus the age of the pearls? The clasp appears older, and more recently combined with the pearls.
On this we cannot comment, but it is a common practice to restring pearls and to combine them with a new or historic clasp.
How would you determine that this strand is not a mix of naturals, keshi and nonbeaded grafted pearls if they were drilled at the time of examination? Do you examine via xray all pearls or just a sampling? Is it more accurate to identify a natural pearl before drilling?
Pearl testing at the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF is based - apart from classical testing with UV light, microscopes etc. - on an advanced testing procedure, including X-ray radiography, X-ray luminescence, X-ray fluorescence, Raman microspectrometry, and in some cases X-ray microtomography and LAICPMS. Based on our expertise and state-of-the-art instrumentation, the SSEF since many years is worldwide the authority for identification of natural pearls, as can been seen when checking back important sales of natural pearls which come along with SSEF reports, e.g.the Peregrina pearl, the pearls from Gina Lollobridgida, the Cowdray natural pearl necklace, etc etc...
Pearl drilling may, in certain cases indeed make pearl identification difficult or even impossible. In cases which are not conclusive due to such a drilling-effect, it is the policy of SSEF to issue no report. However, it has to be said that in many cases, drilling will not completely destroy the internal features of pearls and identification and separation of natural pearls from cultured ones is still very much possible. In fact without this, there would be a major problem in the trade, as most of the pearls (if not freshly from a pearl farm) are drilled, especially historic natural pearls.
Concerning the identity of the pearls in this necklace, we have found internal features in all of these pearl consistent with those of natural pearls, and no such structures known for cultured pearls (e.g. non-beaded aso.)
We recognize that it would take a number of years to collect this many pearls. Is it possible this hoard belonged to a large producer of cultured pearls? If so, this could be why there was no provenance given for the necklace?
Concerning these pearls, they have been certainly collected over many years, as have also seen part of them several times at the SSEF over the years. This is for us very common, as as I said in the first answer, pearls are often restringed and each time need a new report, backed by a testing procedure.
It is not the policy of SSEF to comment on the report about the species of pearls, but based on our analyses, they are not Pinctada margaritifera, but from Pteria Sterna (Baja California), which has produced since centuries, and still is producing natural pearls in quite a quantity (apart from a small pearl farm production).
Do you know and can share approximately how many years it took to collect the pearls?
I cannot comment on this, but certainly this will take many years.
Do you know the species, origin and source of the pearls?
See my answer to question 4.
For those interested to see what SSEF is doing in research on pearls, I suggest the Pearl-Guide readers to check out our website: www.ssef.ch
In the section Research and publications, there is lots of pearl-related information, including pdf files of presentations and papers about DNA fingerprinting of pearls, age dating of pearls, new pearl farm methods, X-ray microtomography of pearls....
I hope with this, the all open questions are clarified and wish you all the best.
PS: Although I am not often reading the Pearl-Guide, I think it is a perfect platform to exchange news and information and to get excited about pearls, which are for me after so many years of research still a wonder and treasure of nature.
Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki
Director
Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF
___________________________________________________________________________
SWISS GEMMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE - SSEF The science of gemstone testing?
Aeschengraben 26
CH-4051 Basel / Switzerland
tel. +41 61 262 06 40
fax.+41 61 262 06 41
e-mail: michael.krzemnicki@ssef.ch
homepage: www.ssef.ch
___________________________________________________________________________
lisa c
Perpetual Pearl Student
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If the discussion had been shorter, would we have learned as much?
(Happy sigh).
We made good use of a reverse Socratic Method, and
a top dog chimed in, and
perhaps we were audacious, and
we got a terrific reminder that pearl harvests were prodigious at one time, and many pearls remain.
(Happy sigh). We made good use of a reverse Socratic Method, and
a top dog chimed in, and
perhaps we were audacious, and
we got a terrific reminder that pearl harvests were prodigious at one time, and many pearls remain.
Last edited:
Caitlin
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- 8,502
I haven't been around and missed this.
.My original thought was that the only place this many matching-and dark- pearls could come from was the New World. This place was loaded with pteria sterna and Margaritifera until the Spanish took it all and left the pearl beds ravished.. There was also a natural pearl farm in the Sea of Cortez for a couple of decades in the early 20th maybe late 19th century..This piece may have been kept intact for centuries. One of the very few.
.My original thought was that the only place this many matching-and dark- pearls could come from was the New World. This place was loaded with pteria sterna and Margaritifera until the Spanish took it all and left the pearl beds ravished.. There was also a natural pearl farm in the Sea of Cortez for a couple of decades in the early 20th maybe late 19th century..This piece may have been kept intact for centuries. One of the very few.
JerseyPearl
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This has really been a wonderful exchange and an education for us all! Thank you pattye
Lagoon Island Pearls
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Dr. Michael S. Krzemnicki said:
Thank you Pattye for inquiring. Likewise thanks to Dr. Krzemnicki for a prompt, detailed reply.
Disclosure of species greatly dispels concern. I find it curious the lab doesn't comment on this as a matter of policy. Any reasonable person might think identification actually requires identification consistent with known taxonomies. It's true, any pearl presenting with overwhelming natural features may not necessarily be identified by species, but a lack of certainties ought to be reflected in the overall value of the piece. I've said it before, natural pearling should to be treated like archaeology or paleontology because indiscriminate collection removes the greater part of it's value. For $5.1M, I'd expect more than a lab report, but again... that's just me.
The lab admits drilling destroys nuclear material, hence results may not always be gleaned. However, an objective consensus was available based upon criteria not available in other species. Even so, I'd still welcome examination of the radiological views before the suggestion of it's adequacy as a merit or demerit in this case. Namely uniform/non-uniform contrasts in the residual nuclear material.
To be completely honest and as alluded by Dr. Krzemnicki, lab work is an existential issue faced by the industry, especially where drilling is concerned. If lab work is to gain traction in the future, they'll do well to expand their analysis and description of types of natural pearls, namely the physiological conditions of onset, which are almost always ignored under the present system. Some are obvious. For example, cultured mabe pearls are always "extrapallial" while bead and tissue grafted cultured pearls are always "periostracial" in origin. Both aseptic. Pearls of myostracial and septic origin make up a large percentage of natural pearls, yet we rarely (if ever) see this evidenced in lab reporting.
Pearls and shells of Pteria sterna have distinct signatures in extra-crystalline structure, dissimilar of Pinctada margarterifera. With this strand being of Mexican origin, a large pool of natural pearls is a realistic probability, though sustainability remains questionable. Being only 1.5 farms in Mexico, the likelihood of cultural origin is nil. I realize he's done it here before, but perhaps Douglas might weigh in to explain these differences to newer members and refresh the older.
I'm moved the lab recognizes the importance of our discussions and contribution. Over the years, awareness of gem quality, ecological factors and truth in marketing have made a great impact on the industry... for it's betterment.
Lagoon Island Pearls
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One additional point.
Dr. Krzemnicki mentioned four experts. I've rarely been in the same room as four experts who agreed on every point. Most commissions or judicial inquiries do not always arrive at a consensus without some dissent. In many cases both opinions are brought forward as opposed to one being disregarded or disposed in the minority.
Dr. Krzemnicki mentioned four experts. I've rarely been in the same room as four experts who agreed on every point. Most commissions or judicial inquiries do not always arrive at a consensus without some dissent. In many cases both opinions are brought forward as opposed to one being disregarded or disposed in the minority.
GemGeek
Pearlista
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Thank you, Pattye, for writing and getting this splendid answer. We learned so much more than expected.
I want to point out that Jacques removed his thread after Dave's first post, assuming that Dave was right on first examination of what was said. (Even Dave would have said that more investigation was warranted, rather than dismissing the pearls out of hand.) So I reactivated the thread. What a wonderful payoff!
Pearl-Guide is a terrific place where we are all free to challenge assumptions and freely discuss the aspects and potentiality of any and all pearls. And we get to share the beauty of pearls through our fabulous photos. We are a community and I hope to see more interesting subjects explored in the future.
I started my day by going to a tourmaline mine two hours away, then I rushed back, changed out of my dirt-encrusted clothes and headed over to GIA for the "Responsible Sourcing Panel", which was awesome. Then I talked to Robert Weldon about the photography for a G&G article on John Tu's pearls, and then I came home to this wondrous thread! What a great day!!! Thank YOU!
I want to point out that Jacques removed his thread after Dave's first post, assuming that Dave was right on first examination of what was said. (Even Dave would have said that more investigation was warranted, rather than dismissing the pearls out of hand.) So I reactivated the thread. What a wonderful payoff!
Pearl-Guide is a terrific place where we are all free to challenge assumptions and freely discuss the aspects and potentiality of any and all pearls. And we get to share the beauty of pearls through our fabulous photos. We are a community and I hope to see more interesting subjects explored in the future.
I started my day by going to a tourmaline mine two hours away, then I rushed back, changed out of my dirt-encrusted clothes and headed over to GIA for the "Responsible Sourcing Panel", which was awesome. Then I talked to Robert Weldon about the photography for a G&G article on John Tu's pearls, and then I came home to this wondrous thread! What a great day!!! Thank YOU!
pattye
Pearl Scholar
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Many thanks to you, GemGeek, for keeping this thread alive and naming an appropriate person to contact, and you, Dave, Jacques and all of you other curious pearl peeps for chiming in with questions and comments. I'm excited to hear from Douglas and hope we will soon!
What do you make of Dr. Krzemnicki's quote below? My interpretation would be that this is a new configuration, rather than a necklace that has been intact for many years.
GG, just a bit jealous of your awesome day full of gems and pearls!
What do you make of Dr. Krzemnicki's quote below? My interpretation would be that this is a new configuration, rather than a necklace that has been intact for many years.
GG, just a bit jealous of your awesome day full of gems and pearls!
kelluvpearls
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A lot of new information since I last visited this thread. Thank you Pattye and GemGeek for the wonderful detective work!
Last edited:
CortezPearls
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Dr. Krzemnicki's answer was as clear as a whistle. We really do have to thank Pattye for her thorough investigative prowess. Kudos Pattye!
I can say that Natural pearls in the area were truly scarce at the time we began with this beautiful research project that evolved into a small company and that we know as Perlas del Mar de Cortez or "Cortez Pearls" in English. But as our pearl farm grew so did our native oyster's breeding capacity and more and more pearl beads started re-growing in the area (Gulf of California).
If you remember from my talk at last year's Pearl Ruckus -and if not check this video out:
- there is clear evidence that our Pearl Farm has been responsible for the temporary recovery of natural pearl beds in Mexico.
Our friends at COBI (http://cobi.org.mx/) did some research at a massive Pteria sterna bed found just north of our location a couple of years ago. They also reported on the "new" pearl fishery and even last year I spoke with Dr. Laurent Cartier and he informed me of the great amounts of natural Pteria sterna pearls being delivered at the SSEF lab for analysis.
Of course, it only took a couple of years for the complete devastation of the pearl beds. Some natural pearl buyers are reporting that the Sea of Cortez has been wiped clean yet again! If there is a pearl yielding animal in the sea...well, maybe we should just say "If there ever was a pearl yielding animal in the sea" to make it clearer.
Not all Hope is Lost! As long as our Pearl Farm continues to operate we will continue to be able to replenish the Sea of Cortez with more, future, pearl beds...and even with sea cucumbers and the myriads of species that live protected within our premises. Many people do not imagine that when they spend their hard earned money on a Sustainable Pearl Farm they are not just "buying a pearl" but they are also helping us help the environment and to help in the world's healing (Tikkum Olam, that is my personal philosophy). Purchasing pearls from Kamoka, Jewelmer and Cortez Pearls means that you also care for a higher calling.
So, it seems as if there will not be another precious natural pearl necklace like this one for many more years to come...but maybe in 20 more years someone will be able to purchase a similar treasure if our Pearl Farm continues with its calling. In the meantime you can purchase a much more affordable, fair trade, sustainable cultured pearl option from a reputable source such as Columbia GemHouse, Kojima Pearl Co, Raw Pearls (Adelaide, AUS), Marc Harit, Kamoka Pearls and many other sources.
Cheers!
I can say that Natural pearls in the area were truly scarce at the time we began with this beautiful research project that evolved into a small company and that we know as Perlas del Mar de Cortez or "Cortez Pearls" in English. But as our pearl farm grew so did our native oyster's breeding capacity and more and more pearl beads started re-growing in the area (Gulf of California).
If you remember from my talk at last year's Pearl Ruckus -and if not check this video out:
- there is clear evidence that our Pearl Farm has been responsible for the temporary recovery of natural pearl beds in Mexico.
Our friends at COBI (http://cobi.org.mx/) did some research at a massive Pteria sterna bed found just north of our location a couple of years ago. They also reported on the "new" pearl fishery and even last year I spoke with Dr. Laurent Cartier and he informed me of the great amounts of natural Pteria sterna pearls being delivered at the SSEF lab for analysis.
Of course, it only took a couple of years for the complete devastation of the pearl beds. Some natural pearl buyers are reporting that the Sea of Cortez has been wiped clean yet again! If there is a pearl yielding animal in the sea...well, maybe we should just say "If there ever was a pearl yielding animal in the sea" to make it clearer.
Not all Hope is Lost! As long as our Pearl Farm continues to operate we will continue to be able to replenish the Sea of Cortez with more, future, pearl beds...and even with sea cucumbers and the myriads of species that live protected within our premises. Many people do not imagine that when they spend their hard earned money on a Sustainable Pearl Farm they are not just "buying a pearl" but they are also helping us help the environment and to help in the world's healing (Tikkum Olam, that is my personal philosophy). Purchasing pearls from Kamoka, Jewelmer and Cortez Pearls means that you also care for a higher calling.
So, it seems as if there will not be another precious natural pearl necklace like this one for many more years to come...but maybe in 20 more years someone will be able to purchase a similar treasure if our Pearl Farm continues with its calling. In the meantime you can purchase a much more affordable, fair trade, sustainable cultured pearl option from a reputable source such as Columbia GemHouse, Kojima Pearl Co, Raw Pearls (Adelaide, AUS), Marc Harit, Kamoka Pearls and many other sources.
Cheers!
GemGeek
Pearlista
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Thank you, Douglas, for the excellent explanation. And Pattye, yes a new configuration, which makes even more sense with the explanation. And eventually, everyone can learn more about the responsible sourcing panel, because GIA is basing an article on it, coming soon.
And Pattye, yes a new configuration, which makes even more sense with the explanation. And eventually, everyone can learn more about the responsible sourcing panel, because GIA is basing an article on it, coming soon. Similar threads
