Treatment of White South Sea Pearl

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

We have many that do have the more purist view on these things and they can be debated, but nothing is going to change within the industry, especially given the amount of secrecy involved in everything from maeshori, bleaching and even in some cases polishing. Within the industry, from many producers, wholesaler, retailers, to even a lot of consumers, many of our opinions would be viewed as the fringe.

By that same logic Jeremey, adding melamine to baby formula and cat food to thwart the protein level grading system would be perfectly acceptable, but you and I both know it's wrong on all levels.

Although treating pearls is not a health issue, how is this any different?

 

[jshepherd]

So since it's ok to kill a mosquito that bites you, it's perfectly acceptable to shoot a human that hits you? Logic can be twisted in any way.

 

[Caitlin]

Within the industry, from many producers, wholesaler, retailers, to even a lot of consumers, many of our opinions would be viewed as the fringe.

Don't you mean the avant garde? There is actuallly a range of authority with a range of opinions here. In the rebellion against chemical fertilizers and pesticides, I remember how long we had to search for organic produce and now, it is at the Safeway. And all their generic frozen and canned foods are organic too.

Bleaching was done by the sun, but not to change the color from cream to white as a rule. of course, since they would be in a jar of water in the gulf sun, they are heat treated too.


I gotta get that pearl book about the Persian Gulf.

 

[jshepherd]

Bleaching by the sun is one of many treatments to naturals, and makes it no more of a natural treatment than many others. Remember the Papyrus Graecus Holmiensis from nearly 2,000 years ago recommending feeding pearls to Chickens? In India the pearl doctors would put pearls in alcohol and then dry them in direct heat to stop the conchioline from swelling up - very similar to one now common type of maeshori.

 

[Caitlin]

This is truly one of the greater pearl mysteries, but as long as we talk about it here, someone is talking about it.

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

So since it's ok to kill a mosquito that bites you, it's perfectly acceptable to shoot a human that hits you? Logic can be twisted in any way.

Fair enough, but the lack of disclosure often gives an impression of something that it's not. Dismissing consumers on a need to know only basis leads to a dark place. It only serves to perpetuate myths and secrecy.

Although you're much more learned in retail that I'll ever be, I cannot help but think that if consumers were more aware about post harvest treatments, they may well think otherwise.

Is this forum a place to crack the nut on these secrets, or is upholding them what we are doing here?

 

[pearlescence]

Are we going sideways into the law on self defence? I could give a lecture...I think I can remember the basics?
Can we not agree to differ a little bit boys and girls. There are those who like their pearls completely untouched (and how in that case do you reconcile drilling with untouched as drilling is certainly a treatment) and those who brush their hair and clean their teeth and think that mild processes are okay, and then come the full whoop-de-do who have dyed hair, extensions, spray tan, eyelash extensions, manicures with talons etc etc.
room for all in this world?

 

[jshepherd]

Is this forum a place to crack the nut on these secrets, or is upholding them what we are doing here?

We are doing the exact opposite. Before this forum, there was almost nowhere anyone could find any information on treatments such as bleaching, pinking and especially maeshori. It's one of the fundamental reasons this forum is in existence. I also believe this forum is one of the main reasons the industry is pushing the FTC to change. If we were all about upholding secrets, this conversation and debate wouldn't be happening.

We have to remember that everything done to pearls has grown out of consumer aesthetic demand. This demand has grown and evolved for thousands of years. Today's product is a result of that demand. As technology has improved to meet that demand, the industry has become more and more secretive. The only way that will ever change is a change in the law in Japan. There are no processors that will unilaterally follow a course of action that will negatively affect their business and industry.

 

[Caitlin]

Oh, you beat me to it, but I'll say it anyway.

Actually, Pearl-Guide.com loves dissecting pearl secrets and maeshori is one subject that has long gone untreated. pun intended.

The basic industry is to meet a desire for round white pearls, but as we consumers expand our knowledge of pearls, there is a whole other world out there that more people are beginning to love. The natural colors, the baroque shapes. I always say, "both/and" and it fits in this case.

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

We have to remember that everything done to pearls has grown out of consumer aesthetic demand. This demand has grown and evolved for thousands of years. Today's product is a result of that demand. As technology has improved to meet that demand, the industry has become more and more secretive. The only way that will ever change is a change in the law in Japan. There are no processors that will unilaterally follow a course of action that will negatively affect their business and industry.

I agree. Please forgive me for coming across untowardly, it's not my intention. I have a tendency to say things in no uncertain terms, especially where a double standard is perceived. Secrecy is every corporation's right, although leveraging the consumer with it, can be misleading.

Rightfully, the only application of secrecy should be where patents are pending.

Anything else is fair game.

 

[jshepherd]

I don't disagree and I think this forum is testament to that.

Secrets are so closely guarded in Japan, in most factories visitors are not even allowed into the "technology" room. Newer processors (new being a relative term) have to purchase secrets from other processors and they come with restrictions. Everything is kept secret. What I've learned has come from friends in the industry there that have opened up to a point, and from processors in China that have technology from Japan. In China, technology is still closely guarded, but you can go into most of the rooms and examine the different bottles and equipment.

 

[R&B]

When a member of the public purchases a strand of pearls that have been treated with oils or such and not informed of this treatment. What are they to think when one year later after cleaning after each use they begin to notice variations within the strand.
I agree treaters will not stop treating.
I'm all for a system that acknowledges types of "treatments" and also "non treated". I do not expect it as how can it be upheld. Just look at the fake claims in advertising on the web that are constantly refered to on the guide.
I stand by my earlier comment but totally enjoy the fact I can air my views as all else can on this forum.

 

[Caitlin]

And there are folks who will always agree with you! And I hope they buy from you.

 

[jshepherd]

Rusty,

When you pull a pearl from a shell, wash it and dry it off and then rub it on your forehead, what happens?

 

[GemGeek]

When we were in the room next to the tumblers at Paspaley in Darwin, they had two machines with polishing wheels, so they must use them to try to improve the occasional pearl. I was on the Paspaley III before Jeremy and the harvest was poured out onto the conference table and they were almost all perfect just out of the shell and even still kind of gummy. I understand that the harvest was not as good on Jeremy's day, but it is really amazing how little south sea pearls need, other than a quick wash.

 

[tyren]

As an ordinary person on the street looking to buy a strand of pearls, I'm for DISCLOSURE DISCLOSURE DISCLOSURE. I think there is room in this world for non-treated pearls, pre-treated pearls, post-treated pearls, well-treated pearls, badly-treated pearls etc., but the consumer should decide which ones he wants and what he wants to pay for them. But right now, I have no way of knowing whether a strand costing 30k ("excellent luster and sought-after white-with rose overtones") is good value (whether it will deteriorate because the luster/colour has been treated). And what I cannot value, I will not buy.

I reckon a continued lack of consensus on disclosure standards will damage the industry eventually because consumers like me will not buy what we have insufficient information/ understanding on.

The following from Jeremy's post caught my eye (Day 11 narrative):

"Michael talked a bit about pearl treatments, and how Paspaley was preparing to launch a campaign on treatment disclosures. GIA could now test for any and all treatments, and consumers should have a right to know. He intimated that anything coming out of Japan today had been subjected to treatments of some kind, and these pearls should not be as valuable as pearls completely in their natural luster state."

I think disclosures of treatments are the way to go, but to make the disclosure meaningful to the consumer, I think the industry participants need to define what does and does not constitute treatment in the first place (eg., polishing/ oiling/ drying etc).

And since I'm on that point, I don't really care as a consumer whether it is mineral oil or the oil on someone's forehead that is applied to the strand of pearls I buy, but I do want to know if the oil serves to protect the nacre or it will damage the pearls in the long run.

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

I do want to know if the oil serves to protect the nacre or it will damage the pearls in the long run.

The intent is to displace the water so pearls don't shrink or crack and the extracrystalline structure remains close to original.

I use mineral oil on mussel shells to make them shine for the camera, but they do fade eventually. I also have a ongoing test running where I have immersed large pieces of conchiolin in mineral oil and after 14 months the pieces appear and feel normal to the touch. The untreated control samples in an open jar beside them have cracked or curled and shrunk.

Douglas mentioned somewhere here, that mineral oiling shouldn't be done liberally or needlessly. Once done, it might require re-oiling later. Oiled pearls also tend to collect dust and dirt much more readily.

 

[Caitlin]

Rusty,

When you pull a pearl from a shell, wash it and dry it off and then rub it on your forehead, what happens?

LOL! That was funny. Of course, it is then our personal oils. Which may get passed on to new wearers if they are sold or passed on... hmmm. Maybe an impersonal oil would be a good undercoat.

Sounds like we are talking about cast iron frying pans. LOL! The oil coating is a seasoning agent to introduce a greasy barrier between the raw iron and the food. A perfectly seasoned cast iron pan is a joy to cook with.

I once asked Douglas why mineral oil? Isn't it a petroleum based product compared to, say, jojoba oil? Perhaps Dave's experiment is an indication of why. Dave, have you also compared the mineral oil to , say, corn oil?

 

[pattye]

Or coconut oil? Aroma therapy pearls!

 

[Caitlin]

I almost said coconut oil! They have it descented for cooking. It is perfect for human skin and does not go rancid. Maybe rancidity is why mineral oil is mentioned?