New to pearls and help needed to identify what I have bought

BectonUK

New Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2025
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Hello everyone,
I’m hoping to get some guidance on identifying a set of pearls I purchased with zero prior experience with pearls, and although I’ve researched online, I realise experience is key, and that’s where I need your help.

Here’s what I’ve observed so far:

I’ve read that pastel colors like green, red, and blue are generally not natural.
I measured the pearls using a digital Vernier calliper—none are exactly the same size, ranging from 11.97mm to 13.16mm.
The box bears the name of a prestigious jeweller in Abu Dhabi. However, I understand the pearls may not have originally come in this box.
None of the metal parts are magnetic (tested with a strong Earth magnet). The clasp is stamped 925, the earrings 18K, and the stones in the metal spacers are not diamonds but do sparkle in the light.
The pearl holes are approximately 1.0mm, and the string used is 0.80mm.
Some pearls feel gritty, while others do not, unless held firmly together.
Under UV light, they display a swirling fluorescent glow.
A couple of pearls have larger inclusions showing the shell’s thickness and underneath appears black.
The drilled holes vary—some are perfectly round, others show minor chipping.

I bought these pearls at an auction while waiting for something else, and I was drawn to their multi-coloured appearance. My bid was based on their aesthetic appeal and accept that my assumption that a box from a reputable jeweller would mean they were genuine was not the best logic.

Given the high cost of professional gemmological authentication, I hope someone with experience can interpret my photos and observations. I just want to know if they’re likely real or fake. The uncertainty is hard to explain , that the feedback will give me some clarification and direction would be great.
Thank you in advance for any guidance you can offer
 

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These are known as shell pearls. They are a type of imitation pearl. So they are fun to wear, but unfortunately not real.
As pointed out in another thread here a few weeks ago, an oversight on the part of CIBJO is not requiring use of the phrase "Shell IMITATION Pearls" (in like manner to Majorica). Perhaps the thought is that the word "shell" should be self-evident. As this is a growing category utilizing improved technology their presence in the authentic pearl market is likely to persist.
 
These are known as shell pearls. They are a type of imitation pearl. So they are fun to wear, but unfortunately not real.

As pointed out in another thread here a few w
As pointed out in another thread here a few weeks ago, an oversight on the part of CIBJO is not requiring use of the phrase "Shell IMITATION Pearls" (in like manner to Majorica). Perhaps the thought is that the word "shell" should be self-evident. As this is a growing category utilizing improved technology their presence in the authentic pearl market is likely to persist.

eeks ago, an oversight on the part of CIBJO is not requiring use of the phrase "Shell IMITATION Pearls" (in like manner to Majorica). Perhaps the thought is that the word "shell" should be self-evident. As this is a growing category utilizing improved technology their presence i
As pointed out in another thread here a few weeks ago, an oversight on the part of CIBJO is not requiring use of the phrase "Shell IMITATION Pearls" (in like manner to Majorica). Perhaps the thought is that the word "shell" should be self-evident. As this is a growing category utilizing improved technology their presence in the authentic pearl market is
n the authentic pearl market is likely to persist.
Thanks for your assessment. I’m still not entirely clear on why they’re fake, but that’s fine—I accept it.

After many years of buying and selling antiques, I’ve learned one simple truth: there just isn’t enough of the real thing to go around.

Paintings, gold and silver jewellery, ceramics, watches, medals, bronzes, wood and jade carvings, cigarette lighters, perfumes—the list is endless. Almost everything is copied to meet demand. Most of these reproductions aren’t convincing enough to fool an expert, but they’re made so that people who can’t afford originals can still enjoy owning something similar.

At the end of the day, someone with no interest in pearls won’t get more pleasure from wearing an expensive strand than from a cheaper one. Just as a watch enthusiast might obsess over whether their piece cost £25 or £25K—when in truth, no one but another collector really cares.

What I do know for certain is this: when I hold something genuinely old, beautifully made, and valuable, there’s a distinct “this feels right” moment. It’s an instant understanding of why people are willing to pay so much for it.

That wow factor simply wasn’t there with these pearls. Instead, I found myself searching for reasons to believe they might be genuine—mainly because I hoped they could bring a good profit if they were.

I’d like to think that if I ever had a truly fine string of real pearls in my hands, I would instinctively recognise their beauty and understand why people are willing to pay dearly for them—even if they’re not really my cup of tea.
 
These are known as shell pearls. They are a type of imitation pearl. So they are fun to wear, but unfortunately not real.
Thanks for your assessment. I’m still not entirely clear on why they’re fake, but that’s fine—I accept it.

After many years of buying and selling antiques, I’ve learned one simple truth: there just isn’t enough of the real thing to go around.

Paintings, gold and silver jewellery, ceramics, watches, medals, bronzes, wood and jade carvings, cigarette lighters, perfumes—the list is endless. Almost everything is copied to meet demand. Most of these reproductions aren’t convincing enough to fool an expert, but they’re made so that people who can’t afford originals can still enjoy owning something similar.

At the end of the day, someone with no interest in pearls won’t get more pleasure from wearing an expensive strand than from a cheaper one. Just as a watch enthusiast might obsess over whether their piece cost £25 or £25K—when in truth, no one but another collector really cares.

What I do know for certain is this: when I hold something genuinely old, beautifully made, and valuable, there’s a distinct “this feels right” moment. It’s an instant understanding of why people are willing to pay so much for it.

That wow factor simply wasn’t there with these pearls. Instead, I found myself searching for reasons to believe they might be genuine—mainly because I hoped they could bring a good profit if they were.

I’d like to think that if I ever had a truly fine string of real pearls in my hands, I would instinctively recognise their beauty and understand why people are willing to pay dearly for them—even if they’re not really my cup of tea.
 
After many years of buying and selling antiques, I’ve learned one simple truth: there just isn’t enough of the real thing to go around.
Antiques achieve their high valuations in part due to attrition of a known original quantity over time. Very few pearls fall into that category. Just the opposite, highest value goes to newly-found/harvested pearls of rare quality and selection.
 
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