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Cut Pearls

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  • Cut Pearls

    Hello all.

    Long time lurker. First time poster.

    I picked up a couple of 14k gold rings with pearls. Upon closer inspection, I noticed both of the pearls had their bases cut or sanded down The rings came from two different sources.

    My thought is that it was done on both rings to bring the widest part of the pearl in line with the highest point in the setting.

    Is this normal or common for setting pearls in rings. I have not come across this previously, although my experience is limited.

    Thanks in advance
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  • #2
    Hello xtcnation, and welcome to our pearl loving forum

    These seem to be what is known as 3/4 pearls. Pearls that have a serious defect on a portion, so this part is just removed (grinding it away) and you have a pearl with a flat space.

    But let us see what others in the forum think of these!
    Douglas McLaurin-Moreno
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    Pearl Farming Specialist
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    Your Life evolves in the same way a Pearl grows: with continuous layers of experiences/nacre that add to the Story of your Life on Earth and make you Unique and Beautiful.
    Douglas McLaurin-Moreno


    • #3
      It is going to give a much more secure seating for the pearl, with much less strain on the central pin. It's unlikely anyone would do this to perfect round pearls. They are more likely to be either high buttons, or drops (set upside down with the point removed). Its often annoying to find that a drop with flaws on the side has a perfect bum. This is a neat way to capitalise on that.
      Author:Pearls A Practical Guide published by Crowood Jan 2021


      • #4
        Good question, xtcnation,

        Lots of gold in these pretty rings!

        Was it disclosed that these are "cut" pearls? I have seen a few listings that do mention this procedure, offering "half-pearls". I agree with Wendy and Douglas; it's a creative way to make the most of a blemished pearl. It wouldn't stop me from buying a piece of jewelry I liked.
        I can see that the setting would be more secure with the cut pearl, Wendy.



        • #5
          Hello Xtcnation and welcome to the forum.

          Spot on Douglas, Used to see 3/4 pearls quite a lot back in the day :-) in earrings, pendants and rings, usually Akoya pearls.
          You don’t see them as much now, perhaps with so many pearls out there they are just cast aside, or if the rings are new maybe they are making a come back.

          Xtcnation, are they vintage rings? ( over twenty years old ) Or modern with a vintage look?


          • #6

            Yes, they are vintage (well used at least)

            No they weren't disclosed, however, that is fine. I get them for close to melt value of the gold so in a worst case scenario, I am not out much if I need to scrap them or resell them as-is.

            Everyone else,
            Thank you for the very informative responses.


            • #7
              Thank you for letting me know the rings are vintage, the designs looked a little Retro.