Pearl stringing advice needed

[Diamondsareforever]

I kind of took a break from stringing pearls and am suddenly having issues with the tied knot part of strand, at the beginning and ending of the necklace, where it needs to be cut. I need to know your secrets please
Multiple times I’ve accidentally cut the knot, and other times I just can’t get it to look uniform. This never was an issue with me before and I don’t know what I’m doing wrong or differently.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

What are you cutting the tail of thread with? I use a Thread Zap. I insert the thread tail to be cut off into the wire loop of the Thread Zap, then angle both the thread and the Thread Zap so that the wire is pressed against the edge of the thread, keeping the thread I don't want to cut well away, so it doesn't get cut by accident. It does take a bit of dexterity.
If it's too hard to picture I'll make a photo to demonstrate it.

 

[Diamondsareforever]

What are you cutting the tail of thread with? I use a Thread Zap. I insert the thread tail to be cut off into the wire loop of the Thread Zap, then angle both the thread and the Thread Zap so that the wire is pressed against the edge of the thread, keeping the thread I don't want to cut well away, so it doesn't get cut by accident. It does take a bit of dexterity.
If it's too hard to picture I'll make a photo to demonstrate it.

A photo would be cool if you have time. I use common thread cutting scissors, will look into this

 

[Pearl Dreams]

One advantage of the Thread Zap is that it melts synthetic thread, so the cut end doesn't fray. But don't use it on silk-- it chars.

I'll post a photo later.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

OK here we go. (Thanks to my husband for taking the photos!)
I have also linked this post to my Stringing Tutorial on the Lowly Beaders' Club. Perhaps someone else reading that will find it useful.

This is the Thread Zap II and a close up. It takes a single AA battery. The wire filament heats up (very hot!) when you press the button. That is what melts the thread.
(Sometimes the little end piece that holds the filament falls out! Just slide it back in-- but don't touch the hot filament.)

At the start of stringing, after I have back-knotted, I want to cut the original knotted thread tail off before stringing the rest of the pearls.

I arrange the Thread Zap with the button facing the right (I will press it with my right index finger to heat the filament.)
I insert the short tail of thread with the original knot (which I want to cut off) into the loop of the wire heating filament. See photos below.
**also see note below

Then I grip the thread that has the needle in my left hand, pulling it to the left (away from the filament) and holding it tightly in place with my left middle, ring and little fingers. We don't want that thread anywhere near the heating filament.

Then I pinch the tail to be cut off between my left thumb and index finger, pushing it to the right. This is where you need a bit of dexterity; you want to keep both threads taut and away from each other so that you only zap the the correct thread. (I use my left hand to hold both threads apart but I suppose one could try using the right hand to pull the tail thread to the right while also operating the Thread Zap. I have not tried that though).

With my right hand I slide the heating filament of the Thread Zap down the tail, to where it's close to (but not touching) the pearl. We want to cut it close but not burn the pearl! Notice I am holding my right thumb against the side of the Thread Zap to stabilize it.
When I have the wire heating filament exactly where I want it and am ready to cut the thread, I press the button and pull it gently against the thread as it melts through it.

** Note: Another way is to simply hold the narrow heating filament tip against the thread to be cut, instead of passing the thread through the loop. Then there is no risk of the wire tip sliding off. I have done it both ways. Do whatever is easier for you.

Position before pressing button to heat filament:

Melting through the thread:

When finishing the strand, it's a little different. Now you want to cut the thread that has the needle. Use your left hand to hold the strand taut away from the thread to be cut, while pinching the thread that has the needle between your left thumb and index finger and holding it to the right. Cut the thread that is attached to the needle.

If you prefer to continue cutting the thread (with scissors or a craft razor knife) instead of zapping it, use the same procedure to hold the threads apart. Then you can't cut the wrong thread.

Adding this: After many uses I found a buildup of melted polyester residue on the filament. I sanded it off lightly with fine sandpaper.
Also: If you string a lot of necklaces, have a replacement AA battery handy. The Zapper uses a lot of juice. If it starts to take too long to melt the thread, it's time to replace the battery.

 

[MintyFresh]

Thread zap. Secrets of pearl threading revealed . . .

 

[Pearl Dreams]

@Diamondsareforever,
Does this answer your question?

 

[Diamondsareforever]

OK here we go. (Thanks to my husband for taking the photos!)
I have also linked this post to my Stringing Tutorial on the Lowly Beaders' Club. Perhaps someone else reading that will find it useful.

This is the Thread Zap II and a close up. It takes a single AA battery. The wire filament heats up (very hot!) when you press the button. That is what melts the thread.
(Sometimes the little end piece that holds the filament falls out! Just slide it back in-- but don't touch the hot filament.)


View attachment 480447

View attachment 480449

At the start of stringing, after I have back-knotted, I want to cut the original knotted thread tail off before stringing the rest of the pearls.

I arrange the Thread Zap with the button facing the right (I will press it with my right index finger to heat the filament.)
I insert the short tail of thread with the original knot (which I want to cut off) into the loop of the wire heating filament. See photos below.
**also see note below

Then I grip the thread that has the needle in my left hand, pulling it to the left (away from the filament) and holding it tightly in place with my left middle, ring and little fingers. We don't want that thread anywhere near the heating filament.

Then I pinch the tail to be cut off between my left thumb and index finger, pushing it to the right. This is where you need a bit of dexterity; you want to keep both threads taut and away from each other so that you only zap the the correct thread. (I use my left hand to hold both threads apart but I suppose one could try using the right hand to pull the tail thread to the right while also operating the Thread Zap. I have not tried that though).

With my right hand I slide the heating filament of the Thread Zap down the tail, to where it's close to (but not touching) the pearl. We want to cut it close but not burn the pearl! Notice I am holding my right thumb against the side of the Thread Zap to stabilize it.
When I have the wire heating filament exactly where I want it and am ready to cut the thread, I press the button and pull it gently against the thread as it melts through it.

** Note: Another way is to simply hold the narrow heating filament tip against the thread to be cut, instead of passing the thread through the loop. Then there is no risk of the wire tip sliding off. I have done it both ways. Do whatever is easier for you.

Position before pressing button to heat filament:

View attachment 480450

Melting through the thread:

View attachment 480451

When finishing the strand, it's a little different. Now you want to cut the thread that has the needle. Use your left hand to hold the strand taut away from the thread to be cut, while pinching the thread that has the needle between your left thumb and index finger and holding it to the right. Cut the thread that is attached to the needle.

If you prefer to continue cutting the thread (with scissors or a craft razor knife) instead of zapping it, use the same procedure to hold the threads apart. Then you can't cut the wrong thread.

Adding this: After many uses I found a buildup of melted polyester residue on the filament. I sanded it off lightly with fine sandpaper.
Also: If you string a lot of necklaces, have a replacement AA battery handy. The Zapper uses a lot of juice. If it starts to take too long to melt the thread, it's time to replace the battery.

Wow thank you very much for the time you took to explain this.
I do use silk so I won’t be able to use the tool, however you said “At the start of stringing, after I have back-knotted, I want to cut the original knotted thread tail off before stringing the rest of the pearls.”
Can you please explain what a back knot is? On the third pearl down I have always glued and let it sit over night but continued to finish the strand with the “tail” on and then cut it off. Like I said never had trouble before but I’m struggling suddenly.

In the photo it doesn’t look like you knotted, did you use glue? Before cutting the strand…

 

[Diamondsareforever]

@Diamondsareforever,
Does this answer your question?

I believe it does I think I’m still trying to pinpoint where I am messing up. Thank you again for your time it is much appreciated. I asked a couple more questions above this reply.

I have one more, I have a rope length strand that I am wanting to restring however the cord cards that I purchase are only two meters. Do you know how I’d go about getting a longer strand in 0.5mm silk thread

 

[Pearl Dreams]

I knot between the first few pearls (not visible in my photos) but I cut the tail off before making the next knot and continuing to string on pearls. This prevents cutting the knot off by accident. And also makes it easier to pass the needle through the next pearl-- no knot to have to maneuver around. And no frayed end sticking out -- the trimmed end is inside the last pearl before the tail is cut.
I don't use glue. Don't need it.

Back-knotting is the way I refer to knotting through the first few pearls after attaching the clasp.
If you have read my tutorial, it's explained. Basically it's this:

1. Double the thread and make a loose knot. I attach a spring-type bead stopper about 2 inches from the knot, to leave a tail that makes it easier to handle later when it's time to cut it off. 2" or so is enough to grab.
2. String on your first 4 pearls in reverse order and pass them all the way down to the springy bead stopper.
3. String on gimp and pass it down.
4. Pass the needle through the clasp.
5. Pass the needle back through the end pearl and tighten the gimp to form a small snug loop.
6. Make a knot between pearl 1 and pearl 2. (This is back-knotting-- knotting as you go back through the pearls.)
7. Pass the needle through pearl 2, make a knot.
8. Pass the needle through pearl 3 and make a knot.
9. Pass the needle through pearl 4 but don't make a knot.
10. Cut off the tail.
11. Make a knot, string on the next pearl and continue making knots between pearls.

When you reach the end, string on the last 4 pearls without knotting between them.
String on the gimp, then the clasp, then pass the needle back through the end pearl, snugging up the gimp as you did in the beginning.
Just as at the beginnng, make knots between the first 4 pearls. Knot between pearls 1 and 2, between 2 and 3, between 3 and 4.
When you get to the 4th pearl, pass the needle through but don't make a knot. (There is already a knot there.) Just trim the tail.
And you're done.

Doing this leaves the tail hidden in the last pearl before the cut. Just looks better.
I've never found I need glue. It is secure.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

I believe it does I think I’m still trying to pinpoint where I am messing up. Thank you again for your time it is much appreciated. I asked a couple more questions above this reply.

I have one more, I have a rope length strand that I am wanting to restring however the cord cards that I purchase are only two meters. Do you know how I’d go about getting a longer strand in 0.5mm silk thread

I don't use silk but I know it used to be sold in spools as well. Can you find any of those?
Or...try Serafil! I really love Serafil. It's strong, it's waterproof, it won't stretch. It comes in various sizes and colors. A card of it is more than long enough for your long strand. It's easy to knot and if a knot ends up in the wrong place anyway, you can usually unpick it.
A rope can be heavy-- any heavy strand strung with silk is quicker to stretch.

Serafil: https://www.etsy.com/shop/PatriciaSaabDesigns?dd_referrer=https://www.google.com/§ion_id=14365735
According to her chart, size 20 of Serafil ("Heavy") corresponds to 0.45mm.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

Do post again if anything isn't clear. Even if you don't use the Thread Zap, you can use the knotting / trimming technique I use.

 

[Pearl Dreams]

Also...I've read that even Mikimoto is now using synthetic thread. It makes sense. Silk was THE thread to use before synthetics existed, but it isn't optimal, for various reasons.

Also-- for long strands I have found this method easier than stringing on one pearl at a time-- you'll get fewer tangles from wrangling a needle with a very long thread. Beginning at this post:

Post in thread 'Stringing Tutorial with photos: Stringing on Serafil, Beaders Secret & Power Pro'

Dec 12, 2012

I've been busily restringing other strands-- a bracelet of small multicolors, smaller and a larger oval strands from the 2008 private offer, and today I got half-way through stringing a rope of 180 smallish multicolored pearls (lots of flaws on these but they are good enough for the purpose.) It should be 48" long when done.

This rope has shown me that I need to post a variation on the knotting instructions for making long strands-- the technique I am using is that of dropping the pearls through the overhand knot. This is the only way to avoid tangling the long, long thread. Sometime...

• Pearl Dreams

 

[MintyFresh]

I don't use silk but I know it used to be sold in spools as well. Can you find any of those?
Or...try Serafil! I really love Serafil. It's strong, it's waterproof, it won't stretch. It comes in various sizes and colors. A card of it is more than long enough for your long strand. It's easy to knot and if a knot ends up in the wrong place anyway, you can usually unpick it.
A rope can be heavy-- any heavy strand strung with silk is quicker to stretch.

Serafil: https://www.etsy.com/shop/PatriciaSaabDesigns?dd_referrer=https://www.google.com/§ion_id=14365735
According to her chart, size 20 of Serafil ("Heavy") corresponds to 0.45mm.

Lurking. Now that I’ve finally learned a half-hitch knot at the collapsible needle eye works (depending on thread size and drill hole size), I will try the Serafil. Been sticking with Griffin Nylon because of the built-in needles.

 

[Diamondsareforever]

I don't use silk but I know it used to be sold in spools as well. Can you find any of those?
Or...try Serafil! I really love Serafil. It's strong, it's waterproof, it won't stretch. It comes in various sizes and colors. A card of it is more than long enough for your long strand. It's easy to knot and if a knot ends up in the wrong place anyway, you can usually unpick it.
A rope can be heavy-- any heavy strand strung with silk is quicker to stretch.

Serafil: https://www.etsy.com/shop/PatriciaSaabDesigns?dd_referrer=https://www.google.com/§ion_id=14365735
According to her chart, size 20 of Serafil ("Heavy") corresponds to 0.45mm.

I think I found a card of silk long enough but it didn’t have a needle attached to it… I suppose I just order the needles seperately? Thanks again

 

[Pearl Dreams]

Yes, but if you are going to thread a needle, you will need thinner thread, as threading the needle doubles the thickness of the thread.
For the usual size pearls (neither tiny nor huge), I use size 30 (medium, 0.37mm) Serafil and Fine needles. There is also a Fine thread, size 40, 0.33mm.