Pearl Education?

[Pearls Dubai]

I am curious as to how many members of this board may have taken the GIA Pearls Course, a practical course in Pearls, or the Stringing Pearl course?

I recognize there is certainly a wealthy of knowledge and great diversity of experiences amongst this group of pearl enthusiasts. Of those who have taken one or more of these courses, could you please provide of a review of your experience along with recommendation for others.

 

[PearlsAndJade.com]

I've taken both the "Pearls" and the "Pearl Grading" course. For anyone planning on taking both, I recommend taking the "Pearls" course first. It is the home study course. The "Pearl Grading" couse is the one day course on campus.

The Pearl Grading course spends the first half of the day discussing some of what is covered in the Pearls course, and it is very fast paced. If you have completed the Pearls course at home, then the morning serves as a good review.

I took the pearls grading course in Carlsbad, CA. The instructors are very knowledable; the class is well organized; and the visual aids are excellent. However, there is a lot of information in that first morning, so if one hasn't taken the Pearls course, and doesn't have a lot of previous pearl knowledge, it can leave you a little behind as the morning moves on.

The second half of the day covers grading, with about one hour as a lab session to grade pearls handed to you in sample packs. As soon as you grade one pack, they will take it back and give you a new one. Since time is limited and you want to see as many pearls as possible, it becomes a bit rushed so that now enough time is spent on each pack.

In my opinion, they should eliminate the Pearls review in the morning and use the full day for grading; or make it a two day class, with the second day all lab class grading pearls. Once you begin grading, many questions come up, and there are several instructors there to answer questions. Another day would allow you to gain a lot more experience grading with those excellent samples, and have all your questions answered.

Like any course, this is a starter. One must then use that knowledge as a basis to continue the education by looking at as many pearls as possible every day and grading them according to the GIA description, or a system that one may develop on their own.

Bill

 

[jshepherd]

I think the GIA 'Pearls' course is a good place to start. It is definitely more useful than the grading course, I feel. The 'Pearls' course will give you a basis from which to learn about pearls. It is kind of like taking Spanish 101 for a semester before moving to Spain for a year - strange analogy I know. You will not become an expert, but you will have general text-book knowledge of pearls.
The 'Pearl Grading' course, however, needs to be a lot longer than just one afternoon (I retook it with my entire staff last February). During the class most students have the time to examine only about 5-10 samples first hand. Many of these jewelers may not see all of the same types of pearls more than once or twice in the next year.
I was not really impressed with the information provided in the grading class as well. A lot of the information shared was out of date, and no longer true. Here are a couple of things that stood out to me:
The instructor stated that the Chinese have only been able to produce Akoya pearls up to 7mm --- This may have been true - in the 1990's! Some farms are actually producing fine materials as large as 8.5mm today (though not enough to affect the Japanese hold on the larger pearls - and the market prices for this size are nearly the same in China as Japan).
The instructor also stated that nucleated freshwater pearls were basically a myth, and they did not exist yet --- Most people in the industry not only KNOW that these pearls exist, many of us have seen them. Recently I posted pictures of two nucleated strands on this forum.

The stringing class is good if you are going to be doing a lot of designing. If you are strictly stringing pearls in the classic fashion, however, the course is really not worth it. The method outlined in the course is definitely an outdated, time consuming method. This used to be a required course for all new employees in my office. Now, however, everyone learns to string the 'tweezers free method'. This takes about 15 minutes per strand, and there are so fewer mistakes.

I think the best way to learn about pearls is read, read and read some more (the books Ashby mentioned are great). Then get your hands in the business. Go to a show and examine all the pearls available. At any good show you can learn a tremendous amount about every type of cultured and many types of natural pearls. I really feel the only way to become an expert is by handling and examining thousands of pearls.

 

[Caitlin]

Jeremy
I am interested in your tweezers free method. I do not use tweezers, I knot then press up against the pearls with my right thumbnail as I hold the rest of the thread in same hand, beads in the other and pull the knot tight against the pearl with fingers of right hand. If I don't get it right (rarely) I have to use an awl to move (or undo) the knot. Although generally fast, when I goof- -oof!

I never learned from anyone. I figured out a method for knotting in the 60's, long before the current bead craze and my technique is probably all wrong. I am a lefty. Try to knot lefty so it doesn't go against the twist of the thread!

Actually I an an expert knotter in general for being self-taught. I made good money at craft fairs around 25 years ago when I used to knot micro-macrame pieces for earrings and barrettes into intricate patterns using dozens of colors of nylon upolstery thread .

I would love to watch someone knotting with your method. I could probably "steal" it quickly!

 

[PearlsAndJade.com]

Jeremy
I am interested in your tweezers free method. I do not use tweezers

Caitlin,

The tweezers method I use is fairly simple. You have the thread going through the pearl. Take the end and cross over the thread - crossing from near you to away from you, and it should initially be behind the new pearl so your knot will be in the right place. Then bring the thread back toward you under the out going thread. Take your tweezers and grab the thread tightly up against the pearl. You can have the very end of the tweezers also tight against the table so as to hold it in place.

Holding the thread with the tweezers, pull the end until you have a knot very tight up against the end of your tweezers. Get it as close as possible to the pearl. Now pull the tweezers out. Now hold the thread in your left hand to keep it tight while you take the tweezers and push the knot tighter up against the pearl.

You use the same direction each time. You don't have to alternate directions as you do in the other method.

Use the small package of thread with the needle built in. They are perfect for this method.

If you go into a bead shop in Tucson when they aren't busy, and buy some thread they will probably show you this method for free. Otherwise, you could take one of their classes. Since you already know how to knot, it may only take a few minutes to see how this method is done.

My wife and I took a private class with an instructor in Scottsdale. The advantage of a private class which costs the same as a class with many people, is that you can learn some tricks and pitfalls to avoid. We only paid $45 each for a private 2 hour session, and it was well worth it.

Bill

 

[jshepherd]

But I think Caitlin knows this method. She wants to learn the tweezers-free method - no tweezers. This is the method I prefer as I think it goes much faster (under 15 minutes per strand), and I think the consistency of the knotting is better. The method is common in Asia. I am not sure why most still teach the old method here in the US...

 

[PearlsAndJade.com]

You're right Jeremy, I missed the word "free" where she wrote tweezers free method. Thanks for the correction.

We're going to learn the knotting without tweezers method next. I'll be very happy if I can ever do an 18" strand in 15 minutes.

Bill

 

[Caitlin]

HI Bill!---I was asking about PP's tweezers-free method!

However, I am glad you outlined the tweezers method here. Great reference material.

My sis in law Lulu sits at a table and does it as you describe. She picks up the pre-strung pearls and puts them on the table and clamps the tweezers in place with the tips tight against the table and the latest pearl after she SWINGS the thread over and around (I couldn't tell from your directions if you hold the pearls or have them on a table, but this is an important part of her technique.) She uses the needles with the silk thread attached, too. I bet she took a class! I am going to ask her.

I am a retired modern/ballet dancer and a very kinesthetic person. I see the movements of stringing pearls as a dance and I like to learn new choreography! There is always room to refine the technique or even switch it entirely.

Once, I sat opposite Lulu and copied her for a few knots. I found her method ponderous and cumbersome. Then I reverted to knotting without tweezers and finished my strand a number of pearls before she finished hers. We both put all the pearls on the string before starting and pushed each pearl into place one at a time before knotting, but I hold my work in my hands and do not need a table. I hold with thumb and pull the thread tight with the fingers of same hand.

Also, I will use a variety of threads to string. I have used doubled silk thread with a drop of glue (the traditional glue is gum arabic) to stiffen and combine the shaved ends - no needle. Works great, but is messy until it dries right. Now I am wondering if gum arabic isn't the really- really old way to make pearl threading points! Maybe the original method before needles were that small?

Also, if you are budget minded, you can buy spools of silk thread and needles in packs of 5-50 for way, way cheap. compared to the little plastic packages with a couple of yards of silk and a needle in it. If you thread your own needles, the thread will be doubled, so you buy thinner thread to begin with.

I have also used nylon thread and think it has some advantages as a stringing medium, though it has no mystique, as silk does. I also have used fake sinew. It makes good knots and has no bias because it is not twisted, yet is incredibly strong.

(You righties -right handed folks!- have no idea what I am talking about because the thread is twisted to use rightie and your knots come out right automatically.)

 

[Caitlin]

Oh I just read the exchange when I put my post up!

My method- it is like knitting or crochet-I can sit on the floor in a variety of positions and change them frequently, squat, use a chair, lie back in bed. Knot in the car, at the beach in a restuarant, in short anywhere I want. All I need are the prestrung w/o knots thread and an awl in case I get into trouble.

I really like to knot when selling at a fair or farmer's market. People love to watch, too. I started this practice when I sold the micro-macrame barettes, etc 1979-1983ish, I used thread about same as size as 8-10 silk thread! I do know my knots.....

In contrast, Lulu sits at a table with her back ramrod straight and has to take breaks. I am always taking a break! I am hereby dubbing the official style you describe, the "Puritan" style. I bet they told you to sit with your back straight in the class! Or if they didn't, it was because you were already trained to do that!