I picked up these 4 necklaces and 1 beautiful bracelet at an auction. Less than $35.00 total in the lot. I fell in love with the bracelet at first sight. The clasp was mesmerizing. After receiving I am more curious to find out if it could be worth more than I thought. If I did the gold test correctly it tested as 10k. There is some kind of a stamp on back but I cannot make it out. The tiny pearls I think are real and are approximately 1 to 1 1/2 mm around the outer edge. The stones are 8 sided octagon on top and dark blue in color. They look kinda rugged cut and one has a chip. Could they be sapphire or fake? What is the tiny bump on the side of the clasp for? Also the pearls are set with individual prongs. The bracelet is 6 1/2 inches long and pearls are mostly 5 mm some maybe 6. Pearls are gritty but not a real rough gritty. They are cold to the touch. Look round in shape so I am thinking they could be akoya. The pearls have slightly different hues and luster. and some look like they are a little more worn. Still all in all very pretty. Can anyone help with identifying and possible value? I also need suggestions on restringing. It needs to be about 3/4 to 1 inch longer for me to be able to wear it. I will definitely knot between each pearl but that may not be enough. Any thoughts and information greatly appreciated.
Need help to identify this vintage bracelet and beautiful clasp.
- Thread starter BrendaKY
- Start date
Pearl Dreams
Pearl Enthusiast
It is common for box clasps to have a safety catch to give an extra layer of protection against the clasp opening up. Google "box clasp with safety catch" to see images. The bump is what the loop part of the safety would fit over; it seems it was lost. If you plan to wear it, you might want to have a new part soldered on.
Pearl Dreams
Pearl Enthusiast
Sorry, no idea. Do you have a local jeweler you could ask?
BrendaKY
Great Find! There are findings places that sell the safety catch, but it needs something that it hooks into. The other option...for temporary would be to get a white gold safety chain. it could go from one side to the other. (hook it on the ring that attaches to the clasp on each side. For restringing...I do BIG knots & can vary size...my knots tend to add 1mm...other professionals have much smaller knots. I would also add frenchwire gimp (Pattye sells it, as do others.) that will add 2mm each side of the clasp too.A Breaker, I appreciate your input and advice. I also use Ms. Pattye’s gimp and love her thread. The #30 is what I usually use. I use 2 strands in a knot throughout my necklaces with 4 strings on the last 3 pearls at each end. I drill the last 4 pearls so the thread will go through along with Pattye’s very fine needles. I have only learned to tie my knots with one loop. I have never made double knots or looping around the knot twice to make the knots between the pearls larger. Anyone who can demonstrate or refer me to a video to make the knots larger would be greatly appreciated. I do already try to use the largest size thread to fit the drill holes. I also like your suggestion to use a safety chain. I will try that if I cannot get it repaired. 
Last Thought: They have white gold spacer beads of different shapes (Bella Findings will give you ideas) Even one set of 3 on each end around the clasp, with gimp & knots might just give you enough. (I got smart & started to use math to figure out what I needed.) To do bigger knots, I string all the pearls....with lots extra left & (and ending seed bead tied loosely) then go back thru & grab both strings doing a double knot...I use a needle or my nails to push the knot into the correct position... The issue will be to make sure each strand is the same...you I usually check each knot for that. It is tedious but do-able. As Bweaves says, "you can always redo it." It is going to be stunning when you are done!!!
How about the pearls. Anyone care to confirm or correct my thoughts about them being Akoyas? I am thinking that they are but if they are not can someone please circle the picture or describe to me what I missed in my conclusion. I appreciate your time and patience. I am learning new things every single time I log onto this forum. 
Pearl Dreams
Pearl Enthusiast
They are either akoyas or fake.
Have a closer look at the pearl I marked in this photo (photo #9). The area in the circle-- look at it with a magnifier (preferably a loupe or 10x magnifier.) Is that an area of eroded nacre, or what? Eroded nacre with shell bead visible underneath = akoya. Or is that the drill hole of a fake pearl with flaking pearlescent coating near the edges of the hole?
Also you say they feel cold. This test works better if you have other pearls (real or fake) to compare the temperature with.
Colder than fake pearls = real.
Warmer than real pearls = fake.
Have a closer look at the pearl I marked in this photo (photo #9). The area in the circle-- look at it with a magnifier (preferably a loupe or 10x magnifier.) Is that an area of eroded nacre, or what? Eroded nacre with shell bead visible underneath = akoya. Or is that the drill hole of a fake pearl with flaking pearlescent coating near the edges of the hole?
Also you say they feel cold. This test works better if you have other pearls (real or fake) to compare the temperature with.
Colder than fake pearls = real.
Warmer than real pearls = fake.
When I look at it through a loupe it looks like there are 2 drill holes angled toward each other with what originally looked like there was a tiny space that was not drilled between them that has over the years broken away from the wear of ring and thread. I can see it is white looking in there not clear. The nacre around the drill hole looks like it has been worn away but I can see layers of rings. Most of the drill holes are clean cut with no wear. I do not see any drill holes with lumps or what would look like paint buildup or any that have a melted look. Is there anyone who has posted any pictures of Akoya vintage pearls that have been worn down over the years of wear? If I had some magnified pictures of drill holes, defects, chips/ cracks and rubbed nacre to visually compare then it would be easier. Most pictures of drill holes I have seen when I zoom in to see the inside it is blurry so I am not really sure. I do see a few of the pearls nacre have what looks like little spots that have raised up or bubbled. Is that normal for the nacre to do that on an old pearl near a pin prick or the drill hole edge?
Pearl Dreams
Pearl Enthusiast
I can't answer all your questions but they do sound like akoyas.
Update I found one of the pearls with this flaw in the pearl. It exposes the bead under the nacre. The bead is white in color. The nacre does not look flaked. It looks as though the nacre just did not form around a section of the bead. Is this a real pearl or a fake one? And if a fake could it just be one and not the whole bracelet? Also the drill hole looks clean to me with no chips or buildup around the drill hole like a fake pearl would have.
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Pearl Dreams
Pearl Enthusiast
It's usually the lower quality fakes that have the build up around the drill hole. The better fakes don't.
That being said, it looks to me like some of the nacre was lost on that pearl-- and I do think it's a cultured pearl.
That being said, it looks to me like some of the nacre was lost on that pearl-- and I do think it's a cultured pearl.
Thank you for your response and taking the time to review my pictures. Again I appreciate everyone on this site. I have learned so much in the past few months. I am beginning to be more confident with identifying real vs fake pearls and the types of pearls. So many items I have purchased over the past couple years I am now realizing we’re miss represented. Some I am sure intentionally and some probably not. It is a wonderful thing all of you are doing by passing on your knowledge and expertise to others. I for one cannot thank you enough. Humbly grateful, Brenda
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