Need help to identify this vintage bracelet and beautiful clasp.

BrendaKY

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May 18, 2024
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I picked up these 4 necklaces and 1 beautiful bracelet at an auction. Less than $35.00 total in the lot. I fell in love with the bracelet at first sight. The clasp was mesmerizing. After receiving I am more curious to find out if it could be worth more than I thought. If I did the gold test correctly it tested as 10k. There is some kind of a stamp on back but I cannot make it out. The tiny pearls I think are real and are approximately 1 to 1 1/2 mm around the outer edge. The stones are 8 sided octagon on top and dark blue in color. They look kinda rugged cut and one has a chip. Could they be sapphire or fake? What is the tiny bump on the side of the clasp for? Also the pearls are set with individual prongs. The bracelet is 6 1/2 inches long and pearls are mostly 5 mm some maybe 6. Pearls are gritty but not a real rough gritty. They are cold to the touch. Look round in shape so I am thinking they could be akoya. The pearls have slightly different hues and luster. and some look like they are a little more worn. Still all in all very pretty. Can anyone help with identifying and possible value? I also need suggestions on restringing. It needs to be about 3/4 to 1 inch longer for me to be able to wear it. I will definitely knot between each pearl but that may not be enough. Any thoughts and information greatly appreciated.
 

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It is common for box clasps to have a safety catch to give an extra layer of protection against the clasp opening up. Google "box clasp with safety catch" to see images. The bump is what the loop part of the safety would fit over; it seems it was lost. If you plan to wear it, you might want to have a new part soldered on.
 
Now I see. Thank you. Any idea what the cost would be to put the safety latch back on? Also I redid the gold test after reading the directions again and believe it is 14 k not 10.
 
Sadly all of our jewelers in our small town have either passed away or retired. I will ask the retired one the next time I see him.
 

BrendaKY

Great Find! There are findings places that sell the safety catch, but it needs something that it hooks into. The other option...for temporary would be to get a white gold safety chain. it could go from one side to the other. (hook it on the ring that attaches to the clasp on each side. For restringing...I do BIG knots & can vary size...my knots tend to add 1mm...other professionals have much smaller knots. I would also add frenchwire gimp (Pattye sells it, as do others.) that will add 2mm each side of the clasp too.
 
A Breaker, I appreciate your input and advice. I also use Ms. Pattye’s gimp and love her thread. The #30 is what I usually use. I use 2 strands in a knot throughout my necklaces with 4 strings on the last 3 pearls at each end. I drill the last 4 pearls so the thread will go through along with Pattye’s very fine needles. I have only learned to tie my knots with one loop. I have never made double knots or looping around the knot twice to make the knots between the pearls larger. Anyone who can demonstrate or refer me to a video to make the knots larger would be greatly appreciated. I do already try to use the largest size thread to fit the drill holes. I also like your suggestion to use a safety chain. I will try that if I cannot get it repaired. 👍
 
Last Thought: They have white gold spacer beads of different shapes (Bella Findings will give you ideas) Even one set of 3 on each end around the clasp, with gimp & knots might just give you enough. (I got smart & started to use math to figure out what I needed.) To do bigger knots, I string all the pearls....with lots extra left & (and ending seed bead tied loosely) then go back thru & grab both strings doing a double knot...I use a needle or my nails to push the knot into the correct position... The issue will be to make sure each strand is the same...you I usually check each knot for that. It is tedious but do-able. As Bweaves says, "you can always redo it." It is going to be stunning when you are done!!!
 
How about the pearls. Anyone care to confirm or correct my thoughts about them being Akoyas? I am thinking that they are but if they are not can someone please circle the picture or describe to me what I missed in my conclusion. I appreciate your time and patience. I am learning new things every single time I log onto this forum. 👍😊👏👏
 
They are either akoyas or fake.
Have a closer look at the pearl I marked in this photo (photo #9). The area in the circle-- look at it with a magnifier (preferably a loupe or 10x magnifier.) Is that an area of eroded nacre, or what? Eroded nacre with shell bead visible underneath = akoya. Or is that the drill hole of a fake pearl with flaking pearlescent coating near the edges of the hole?

Also you say they feel cold. This test works better if you have other pearls (real or fake) to compare the temperature with.
Colder than fake pearls = real.
Warmer than real pearls = fake.

eroded nacre?.png
 
When I look at it through a loupe it looks like there are 2 drill holes angled toward each other with what originally looked like there was a tiny space that was not drilled between them that has over the years broken away from the wear of ring and thread. I can see it is white looking in there not clear. The nacre around the drill hole looks like it has been worn away but I can see layers of rings. Most of the drill holes are clean cut with no wear. I do not see any drill holes with lumps or what would look like paint buildup or any that have a melted look. Is there anyone who has posted any pictures of Akoya vintage pearls that have been worn down over the years of wear? If I had some magnified pictures of drill holes, defects, chips/ cracks and rubbed nacre to visually compare then it would be easier. Most pictures of drill holes I have seen when I zoom in to see the inside it is blurry so I am not really sure. I do see a few of the pearls nacre have what looks like little spots that have raised up or bubbled. Is that normal for the nacre to do that on an old pearl near a pin prick or the drill hole edge?
 
I have a couple of Akoyas where they cut off a odd shaped end to make them round... the end looks like yours... kind of yellowy no luster shell bit. Hope that helps
 
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