Natural black pearl engagement ring

[Slraep]

Hi DFrey,

It's the 75% yellow gold and the alloys(copper and nickel) in white gold it give it a slight yellow tint that eventually yellows even more with age to various degrees. Rhodium plating is done to make white gold whiter and this plating wears off with time. Why would rhodium plating be necessary if 18K was white and stayed white??? It's because it yellows. Platinum always stays blue white because it is 95% pure and only 5% alloyed with other white metals that do not yellow.

I have many pieces of jewellery in 18K and in platinum. I can see the difference it with my own eyes. Platinum is also hypoallergenic.


Slraep

 

[Slraep]

Not sure why everything is rhodium doused these days...

It's because white 18K gold is slightly yellowish and platinum is extremely expensive and hard to work with in comparison. So voila! Rhodium plating was born. Rhodium is a metal from the Platinum family.

Slraep

 

[DFrey]

Hi DFrey,

It's the alloys(copper and nickel) in white gold it give it a slight yellow tint that eventually yellows even more with age to various degrees. Rhodium plating is done to make white gold whiter and this plating wears off with time. Why would rhodium plating be necessary if 18K was white and stayed white??? It's because it yellows. Platinum always stays blue white because it is 95% pure and only 5% alloyed with other white metals that do not yellow.

I have many pieces of jewellery in 18K and in platinum. I can see the difference it with my own eyes. Platinum is also hypoallergenic.


Slraep

Hi Slraep,
It is the fine gold content in white gold that gives it the yellow tint not the copper and nickel. The nickel in the white gold alloys is what gives it the white color not the yellow color, nickel is a white metal.

The whitest of the white gold alloys have a high nickel content and this makes them more difficult to get consistently good castings with. White gold alloys that give better results in castings have been developed, but they have a stronger yellow hue so this is part of why Rhodium plating has become popular in the trade, to cover up the yellow of the alloys that give more consistent casting results, not because white gold yellows with age. And of course because of the fine gold content in any white gold alloy it has a yellowish tinge.
I'm sure you can see the difference in color between your platinum and white gold jewelry, but its not because the white gold jewelry is becoming yellow with age, its because it always was a different color than platinum, right from the beginning.

DFrey

 

[Slraep]

Hi Slraep,
It is the fine gold content in white gold that gives it the yellow tint not the copper and nickel. The nickel in the white gold alloys is what gives it the white color not the yellow color, nickel is a white metal.

DFrey

I know 18K is 75% gold. I just meant the alloys used are copper and nickel. I work with metal. Sorry if I was unclear. Copper as an alloy also has an effect. Platinum has only platinum group alloys of 5%.

Slraep

 

[Slraep]

.... its not because the white gold jewelry is becoming yellow with age, its because it always was a different color than platinum, right from the beginning.

DFrey

That is what I am trying to say---that white 18K gold is yellowish compared to platinum. Thank you for saying it for me more clearly. I have a very bad habit of typing slower than my thinking so I sometimes skip over things I think are obvious.

I've had many a customer that has brought me an old 18K white gold ring that is now a rusty tarnish coloured thing. And I've seen old 18K white jewellery that has almost turned black. Never saw that with platinum. My mother's originally white gold engagement ring is now a brownish yellow after 50 years of wear.

Most nickel white golds have nickel-zinc alloys and some copper to improve workability. More than 12% nickel gives a nice white but is difficult to work with. This becomes a two-phase alloy and can result in nickel white gold yellowing in colour over time. Commercial alloys are nickel with copper added to produce alloys that are more workable. This gives a not so true white colour with a yellow-brown tinge and such alloys are routinely rhodium-plated.

Palladium would be a better alloy than nickel for white gold. Nickel causes problems and reactions on many people and is being investigated as a possible carcinogen.

Slraep

 

[Tobias]

I think I've pretty much made up my mind about getting a natural pearl but if I can't find a round natural black pearl from Mexico then I might go with a sea of cortez pearl, they are very nice.

I like the idea of a natural pearl because they are rare and one coming from mexico would be an added touch to the ring since my girlfriend has roots in mexico.

Also, she has a thing against diamonds so diamonds will be out of the picture for the side gems. I was thinking white sapphires?

Any ideas on what gem would look good next to a black pearl?

 

[pattye]

Hi Tobias,

Nice idea, the Cortez Pearl! White sapphires could be fine, and of course, sapphires come in a lot of other colors that would compliment the glowy colors of the Pearl. What month is her birthday? Perhaps if she likes that birthstone it might be a good choice. Full cut white topaz are also very pretty, although I don't know how available.

Also meant to suggest a Cortez keishi pearl as an option to a round, come in many shapes, usually flatter, and all nacre, and in the end perhaps would lend to a more wearable design---personally I am very fond of bezel or half bezel setting--IMHO---

Pattye
so many pearls, so little time

 

[knotty panda]

If your girlfriend's aversion to diamonds stems from the "blood" diamond thing, consider Canadian diamonds. Colored sapphires with a black pearl or a Sea of Cortez pearl would POP majorly!

 

[Tobias]

If your girlfriend's aversion to diamonds stems from the "blood" diamond thing, consider Canadian diamonds. Colored sapphires with a black pearl or a Sea of Cortez pearl would POP majorly!

What do you mean POP majorly?

 

[knotty panda]

Sorry. Black pearls and colored stones go exceptionally well together, are an unexpected combination, and never fail to grab people's attention. However, stay away from rubies. That combination is overdone.

 

[GemGeek]

For durability, if you don't want diamonds, sapphires are hard and fairly tough and come in a rainbow of colors. I would highly recommend them for a daily wear ring.

Knotty Panda is right about the blood diamond thing. Let me expand on that. It happened a few years ago. Since then the Kimberley Process was put in place to restrict the sales of diamonds from unauthorized channels. There may be only 1 or 2 percent getting around it to be sold these days.

Before you rule out diamonds forever, it's important to remember that diamond sales pay salaries for a good part of the third world. For many people in Africa, it pays for schools and roads and a better way of life that would disappear otherwise.

Right now there is a boycott of rubies from Myanmar due to the unpleasant political tactics of the government. Most of the rubies are mined and processed by very small operations, many by individuals panning in rivers all day for a teaspoon of tiny stones. The people who are really hurt by boycotts are the little guys.

Okay, I'll get off my high horse and stop lecturing. I don't even know why your intended doesn't want diamonds. White sapphires are nice, but colored sapphires are prettier (IMHO). Once you have your pearl, you can see if you think it needs something to compliment it. A good jeweler can make a platinum ring that will protect the pearl and enhance its beauty. Maybe you should visit the Orchid forum and see if a metal artist is interested in making a custom ring for you. www.ganoksin.com

Buying a natural pearl can be risky and expensive - ten times as much, if not more, than a comparable cultured pearl. If you decide to go that way, let us vet the seller for you. We like you and want this to be a good experience for you. And of course, we are happy that you have included us in your search.

Good Luck!

 

[Tobias]

Everyone, thank you so much for your replies! This forum has been a goldmine! So here is my plan now:

1) Search for the ultimate pearl; a natural round black pearl from Mexico (I've contacted a few natural pearl dealers with no luck thus far). If anyone has any leads on where to look please let me know. Looking for a 8-9mm pearl.

2) If I am unable to find a natural round black pearl from Mexico I will go to plan B and find a Sea of Cortez pearl from Mexico (they are very very beautiful pearls)

3) I will either search for Canadian diamonds to set next to the black pearl or use white sapphires. Any idea where I should look for canadian diamonds? What size diamonds should I use next to the pearl ?

4) I will then search for a platinum setting, similar to the picture attached.

5) I need to find a good jeweler experienced with setting pearls in platinum. Suggestions?!

Again, thank you all very much for your help!!

 

[GemGeek]

"Safe" diamonds also come from Russia and Australia. Russian diamonds are known for some of the best diamond cutting in the world. Diamonds from 1/5 to 1/3 of a carat would look good with a 8-9 mm pearl and offer some protection as a barrier around the pearl. (20 points and 33 points)

 

[Valeria101]

5) I need to find a good jeweler experienced with setting pearls in platinum. Suggestions?!

www.artofplatinum.com

For small side diamonds, the jeweler making the setting should source them - way better deal.

Canadian diamonds? Hm... OK. I have a bit of trouble with what the label stands for, but if you want them look for the original label. Canadamark keeps track of its distributors and should be able to give you some addresses in your area.

Natural mexican pearl, I think you asked at the only outlet I would know of already. Another way woud be to look for an antique gray pearl.

 

[Ashley]

I don't want to argue with the experts on this forum but I am sorry unless white gold of any karat 10K, 14K or 18K has been rhodium plated it will not "yellow"with age. Anything that has been rhodium plated will change color, depending on the alloy that has been plated, as the rhodium wears off.
For more info regarding gold alloys etc. check out the archives of the orchid forum for those making jewelry and those interested in the making of jewelry.

DFrey

Thank you, DFrey- I was reading this thread and everytime that yellowing was mentioned, I had to think: Mmmmm.... 14K, 18K gold is actually mixed with nickle. Occassionally (if the mix isn't great), additional rhodium will be applied which can wear off over time and expose a slightly more yellowish tone. However, the reason why a 14K or 18K gold was recommended to Tobias is that gold is easier to work with overall.

Platinum, while a pure metal (well 95% pure), is very difficult to size and to maintain. Because the metal is so "pure" and hard, it is very easy to scratch; many rings that are worn on a daily basis made of platinum will quickly get an almost "brushed" look due to the frequency of scratching, and should be polished between every 3-6 months to maintain a high shine. It is not a huge deal, but something to take into account when considering a plain band such as the ideas that are being tossed about here.

I usually recommend going with gold: 14K or 18K is a matter of personal taste, as the gold isn't going to get any "whiter", the nickle content will be the same either way, but on the whole, it is cheaper, easier to maintain and easier to work with for the jeweler.

Really, the only thing that I like using platinum for is prong-settings; those prongs will never bend out of shape or break! For that reason, those 1.00ct diamond studs (and bigger!) that I drool over should always be set with platinum, and the same goes for any basket or prong setting where it would be devastating to lose a stone.

...Okay, obviously my post is a little late here, but I say again I haven't had much chance to be on the guide lately

Tobias: Go with the Sea of Cortez pearls!!!! Absolutely gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous! You can also request a specific overtone from Douglas, and a certain level of color saturation as well. Any colored stone or diamond accents should be selected after you obtain the pearl so that you can better coordinate the way the colors fit together.

And GemGeek: Thanks for sticking up for the poor Burmese! Not a ton of people really understand the situation over there and that boycotting Burmese rubies really will do more harm than good. If you gotta boycott something, boycott their Jade! The Myanmar government really has all their fingers in that pie!