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Lady Satine De La Courcel! MKA on PG Ash[/quote] i recently accepted a green belt (costuming) from my laurel and I thought now would be a good time, before i got any further, to get rid of the unregisterable newbie name. |
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| After you take off your pearls, just wipe them off with a soft cloth which may be dry or damp. This will prevent dirt from accumulating and keep perspiration, which is slightly acidic, from eating away at the pearl nacre. You can even use a drop of olive oil on the cloth to help maintain their luster. If pearls have not been kept clean and are very dirty, they can be cleaned by your jeweler or they can be cleaned using special pearl cleaner. Be careful while using other types of jewelry cleaner or soap. Some liquid soap, such as Dawn, can damage pearls. Pay attention to the areas around the drill holes where dirt may tend to collect. After washing your pearls, lay them flat in a moist kitchen towel to dry. When the towel is dry, your pearls should be dry. About every six months have a jewelry professional verify that the pearls on your jeweler are securely mounted or that the string is still good. Many jewelers will do this free of charge, and they'll be happy to answer your questions about the care of your jewelry. Last edited by smartneil; 02-23-2008 at 05:26 AM. |
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| I think Doug mentioned once (wish I could find the post) that they use a small bit of some kind of oil on Sea of Cortez pearls after they are first washed. I would think, since it is oil, it might help hold the moisture in the pearls, or make the surface shine a bit more, but I am not quite sure how it could put actual moisture in the pearls. Pattye so many pearls, so little time |
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| We actually sell a little olive oil from a tiny producer in SE Spain as an adjunct to our wine business… In any case, minimally processed olive oil can equally be classified as a fruit juice, and as such does contain a percentage of water. Could be that the oil serves to keep the water in contact longer (without evaporating), making a more effective penetration of the nacre deposit. Oleic acid (word derives from 'olive') is a fatty acid primarily found in olives, but common to other vegetable sources such as soya and chocolate, and is used on its own to make fake butter. So it does not appear to be a strong, or caustic, acidity (no chemist here). But its major claim to fame is to lower cholesterol (counteracting the fairly saturated nature of olive oil per se). Preservation for your pearls…and for your heart! Seems like a natural for 'The Pearl Doctor.' |
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it ;is not a good plan to wash knotted pearls becasue the dirt will impregnate into the knots. Especially if there are any gold beads in the necklace. Washing should only be done at time of restringing. pearlman |
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| Hi PG Design. You mentioned that someone used beeswax on pearls - was it straight from the hive or turned into polish by melting and mixing with turpentine. I'm also a beekeeper so have access to my own beeswax (which I use already to dress the silk before use). Thinking generally about oiling pearls. Since pearls respond to being worn because of the oils in human skin would not an oil like lanolin be better since that is another animal oil? |
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| Our firm has been using beeswax for 50 years in stringing. Best to keep in a plastic bag so it won't dry out. It is cheap we can buy from a bee man for couple bucks a pound. a pound will last a life time. Also very good to pick up small pieces of ?? |
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| I already use it to dress the silk, but I was wondering at your reference to using it on the pearls - neat or as a polish, melted and mixed with something? No need for a plastic bag, beeswax won't dry out if properly rendered and filtered first. My only problem is I forget to tuck it away and leave it on the workbench in the sun and it melts! |
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| Dear Wendy: Not too long ago on one of these threads someone forgot and left their beeswax out and their kitty ate it~at least with melting you have some chance of recovery! barbiehttp://www.pearl-guide.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif |