working conditions in the pearl industry

[elisa]

While having an interesting discussion about the myths and realities surrounding 'blood diamonds', someone asked me about the ethics of pearl farms. Pearl harvesting doesn't seem to be funding any bloody African conflicts (I hope...), but we were wondering about working conditions on farms, and I didn't have any answers.

The pearl industry strikes me as one that is relatively 'clean' as far as labor issues go; but then my image has been shaped largely by pictures, articles, and stories about farms like Kamoka, or from PG travelers. It seems like many tahitians, kasumis, south seas, and cortez pearls are cultured on very proud and upstanding farms, but I am really curious about the state of affairs in larger freshwater operations (especially in china!). Does anyone have some literature or info they can pass on? I'm just so curious, and I know that a lot of you must have info on the status of pearl workers. Thanks!

 

[barbie biggs]

As usual, Jeremy or someone who travels and buys/sells pearls for a living is going to be your best source for the answers to this question.
A while back there was a picture of a village where pearl farming takes place, posted on this guide which showed literally mountains of 'junk' shells littering the ground. Many of the mussels die the first year. Of those that produce, only the ones with good/great colors are re-used. Pearling is creating huge numbers of shells that have no use.
On the other hand, the Chinese reuse anything that a use can be found for. They are great savers and very innovative. There was another blog here last year about a woman who drives around the U.S. in an old pickup truck buying up trash and shipping it to China where everything possible is sorted through and used. Old wiring from houses is sorted out and broken down into it's component parts, like copper wire.
Many of the shells used to nucleate salt water pearls come from the U.S. Not all shells are big enough to use in this way. Puka shells are a good example of recycled shells.

Bottom line: I suspect that there may be a huge problem with shell debris somewhere.

At least the shells are reasonably biodegradable.
I hope nobody is grinding them up and using them for cattle food, or calcium pills.

 

[Mervione]

Isn't shells re used as well? I went to a craft shop the other day and they were selling loads of shells of different kinds!

 

[elisa]

Hm, this stuff about shell waste is interesting, but I am more interested in labor conditions of the people who nucleate, harvest, process, drill, string, etc. What kind of hours do they work, how safe are the conditions, are children ever employed...I am aware that China is rife with workplace practices that would make most of us cringe, and I am wondering how much pearl farms resemble factories in other sectors.

 

[Mervione]

I'm probably not a good source, but on all videos and pictures you see of people working with pearls in China the conditions seems pretty poor. Just look at the chairs they are sitting in, they aren't even chairs, they're stools, imagine that when you're working hours sitting like that.

 

[jshepherd]

I will try to help.

Farm -
These are mostly run by families, often only a husband and wife. The majority of pearl farms in China are very small. A small farm might only produce enough fine pearls for a few strands (and about a ton of not-so-fine pearls).

Grafters -
On freshwater farms, the grafters do not work for the farms. They work for a separate company, and travel from farm to farm. Nearly all grafters are female, and typically at least 18 years of age (I've not met one younger). They only train for a short period - less than a month.

On akoya farms, the grafting is more specialized and training takes a lot more time. Most of the grafters are trained locals, and are typically a bit older than the grafters at freshwater farms.

They work very standard hours, all starting at the same time in the morning, all taking breaks at the same time, all having lunch at the same time (this is a big deal there) and all leaving at the same time. All in all, it's very organized. Their work days are not unlike ours, typical 8-hour days.

Harvesting -
On freshwater farms, the harvest is usually organized by the collector, which may or may not be a company. You always hear "direct from the farm", but this really is not true. With freshwater, it is direct from the processing factory. Can you imagine searching through a raw harvest for quality pearls? It would take you a week to collect a strand.

On akoya farms, families come out for the harvest. Dads, moms, kids, even the elderly. It is a good way for them to make some quick money, and often they get to keep the pearl meat.

Factories -
The workers at the factories are very well organized, and almost all female. This goes for freshwater and akoya. The ages are similar to those working as grafters. They have rigid schedules that are followed to the minute. This is to keep their eyes from getting to tired.

Pearls are unlike Nikes. It takes a steady hand and a sharp eye to graft, drill, match, sort, etc. If they screw up, the pearls are screwed up. The workers are well paid, and well trained.

 

[Heidi]

Jeremy - Thank you for this clear rundown on the industry conditions. It's very enlightening, and heartening, to hear about the controls. Good for all of us that pearls aren't tennis shoes...

 

[pattye]

Yes, that is good to hear--I would have thought more diverse conditions--such as farm laborers work under here in the US.

 

[Caitlin]

Thanks Jeremy, good post! I think the videos show that, but still need a narrative. You can't exactly see the rules they are operating by, in photos.

 

[Island Bound]

I'd like to add my thanks also Jeremy. I am glad to hear that the industry is taking care of it's labor resources.

 

[elisa]

Thanks so much for the info, Jeremy!

 

[Mervione]

That is very nice to hear, now I can wear pearls without feeling bad...

 

[Valeria101]

Quite the question to ask! Josh makes it sound like it would be worth buying tickets to a stint of pearling life...

 

[barbie biggs]

Josh must have a pretty big farm by industry standards. He employs a number of people. It's nice that they seem to have fun as well as work hard. One wonders if the "giants" of the industry can make the same claim.

 

[KAC]

The workers are well paid, and well trained.

Yes exactly, I have seen Akoya farms and factories and freshwater farms and factories and I not once did I see anything that left a bad taste in my mouth.

Everyone that I saw working seemed generally happy and from all accounts they are paid well above the average wage in these regions - not a lot by western standards but a decent living by chinese standards.

 

[Josh]

Elisa, that's a good (loaded) question you asked and in our industry the answer is all over the place.
There is a fair amount of government regulation in French Polynesia which keeps things OK for the most part. There are horror stories of "company store" scenarios on the really big farms but today those farms have almost totally fallen from their heights. On the other end of the spectrum are the really small family operations that unfortunately often take advantage of blood relations to not pay proper wages or social security. I can't speak for what goes on in China but this "modern slavery" can be quite a heart breaker.
Ana, get your ticket!
Barbie, Kamoka is a small to mid-sized farm employing 9 people and me makes 10. Hard work is the core of pearl farming and yes we do take our fun very seriously

 

[Mervione]

Josh, this is very off-topic, but if I'm willing to work very, very hard, could I go to your farm and help? It would be great! Great exercise, beautiful nature, a cute cat and it seems that you're all very friendly...

 

[Josh]

Mervione, absolutely. Get in touch with Sheri and Sarah first though as they might be good to talk to, having been there already. See you soon?