Worth paying for certification or not ?

[FrenchPearl]

Hello all,

I have not posted in a long time, but visited the forums times to times. I'm still interested in pearls, but my obsession with them has somewhat slow down
However, I still keep my eyes open whenever I see pearls on my friends... So here is the story of this necklace.
Last December, I attended Christmas party, for which all the women (mostly French) wore pearls (required by the theme of the party) and many wore their family heirloom pearls. It was heaven !! I could easily identified, the akoyas, the fakes, the Chinese FWP etc... but there was one necklace that got me stumped.... the pearls glowed and... well, they talked to me.

So I started to question my friend, and she mentioned casually that they were natural pearls , not cultured, , an heirloom from her grandmother who was a well to do lady from the city of Lyon. (pearl purchased around 1910). Moreover, she said that the pearls were coming from a very reputable jewelry store, owned by relatives and still in the family. They had been very cautious over the generations, to have the necklace restrung only at this place.

I told her that the value of natural pearl necklace was quite high this day, hers seemed very well matched, and more round than off round, so she should get them certified. Intrigued, she sent the necklace back to her cousin jeweler in France, who confirmed it came from his store, was sold by his grandfather and was indeed of natural pearls . However, from different auctioneers / jewelers, she got estimates all over the place from 2000 euros to a 7 figures number (euros). On my side, during the party, I had ventured a 5 figures number ($), if it was confirmed natural.
With a certification (SSEFF or GIA) costing around $1000 (including shipping) , these estimates all over the place , she is now a little lost, wondering if it's still worth certifying.....
So, I know you don't like to give estimate, but I would love your recommendations to see if this necklace is worth sending to certification (Would the Swiss institute be OK vs GIA ?- ), and under the hypothesis it's natural, would love getting whatever range of amount you are comfortable with (or pm) , so she can make a more informed decision.

The necklace has 101 pearls, measures 38.5 cm (was longer, but she shortened it for her wedding), bigger pearl is 6.75 mm and smallest are 2.4 mm. Color is white, with no pink nor cream tint).
Pictures below where taken in December, with artificial light (at the party!), and I can't take any more since the necklace is now back in France.
And yes, I wore it and loved it !!

Thanks in advance for your feedback and recommendations
PS: also, if you think they might not be natural , please don't hesitate to say so. I just want to help my friend to be able to make a more informed decision.

Sophie aka FrenchPearl

 

[Pearl Dreams]

They are gorgeous-- and really need to be restrung! There is a risk of losing them if the thread breaks.

What is the purpose of having them certified? For insurance?

 

[FrenchPearl]

I know, I told her it was risky ! She had them restrung last for her wedding 20+ years ago, but it time to do it again.
I feel I'm kind of rescuing them, because she was about to lend them to her daughter to go to a HS dance !! NO !

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

A lovely strand and a wonderful story supporting provenance.

Unless examined in person, it's difficult say with certainty from just photos.

I would be delighted to see candled views of this strand. Variations in the nuclei would support natural origin.

From my limited viewpoint, this piece scores 5:5, Anything 50% or higher merits a trip to the lab and this piece is just that. If indeed natural, the value add will compensate for the cost.

As you've already suggested, we're reluctant to appraise value, but other stands of equal quality and style generally move in the mid four figures. Insurance or resale value are different things. You'd be at the mercy of wide variations at auction, on top of fees and applicable taxes. A private sale may be advised.

Thank you for showing this piece.

 

[FrenchPearl]

What is the purpose of having them certified? For insurance?

Sorry I miss this question.
No, it's not for insurance. I think it's more to be able to have a better idea of its value. If it's valuable, she will probably sell it. She said she was not comfortable wearing too expensive jewelry. Depending on how valuable, it will help to decide where to sell it. (store in France, or auction houses)

 

[FrenchPearl]

I would be delighted to see candled views of this strand. Variations in the nuclei would support natural origin.

From my limited viewpoint, this piece scores 5:5, Anything 50% or higher merits a trip to the lab and this piece is just that. If indeed natural, the value add will compensate for the cost.

As you've already suggested, we're reluctant to appraise value, but other stands of equal quality and style generally move in the mid four figures. Insurance or resale value are different things. You'd be at the mercy of wide variations at auction, on top of fees and applicable taxes. A private sale may be advised.

Thank you for showing this piece.

Thanks Dave,
I was hoping you'd have a look. I kick myself to not have candled it while it was in Seattle !! now, it's in Lyon, and the closest certification institute is the Swiss one - that seems reputable. Unless , she decides to bring it back to the US.

You wrote it scores a 5:5 from your limited point view, how does this relate to 50% ? is it 55% ?

You are spot on for the variations at auction : A similar necklace from the same jewelry store (with original box) sold for 240.000 euros last year at a local auction house (was an international buyer), and another one last month (same store , no box) sold for 2000 euros..... so it's quite unsettling....

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

You wrote it scores a 5:5 from your limited point view, how does this relate to 50% ? is it 55% ?

A ratio of 5:5 = 50%. In a score out of ten, five points are reasonable, five are not. A perfect cultured pearl is based around eight points. Aka eight way rollers. In natural pearls two points may be added to this formula, one for translucency and the other for nuclear consistency.

If these were cultured, off round shapes would be a demerit point, but in naturals off round merits a point supporting natural origin, likewise If they were all perfectly round, it would demerit at a point.

It's not a perfect strategy, but makes allowances for corrections to the assessment. That's why a score equal to or greater than 50% warrants further investigation.

 

[FrenchPearl]

Got it. Thanks for the clarification.

 

[MSC]

oooh that is a lovely strand, Sophie and I'm sure a joy to try on!
Dave, I'm really curious about the point system and what attributes are scored? (not trying to thread jack, feel free to PM me )

 

[Happy Huku]

What stunning pearls, my absolute favourite...
Great neck shot too!
Hope your friend gets the price she wants.

 

[pkinnew]

I am no expert (by a long shot) but I can understand why you were drawn to those pearls - they are gorgeous! If it were me I would probably spring for the certification, especially if I were planning on selling them.

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

Dave, I'm really curious about the point system and what attributes are scored?

Context is important to consider as best and worst case scenarios. This will vary with different pearls. For example, if we compared cultured SSP to naturals, size would have greater importance. Likewise candled (or x-ray) views may support onset. All cultured pearls are homogeneic and periostracial in origin. Naturals may be homogeneic or xenogeneic, and periostracial or myostracial in origin.


Basra - FWP

Luster ----------- 1.0 - 0.0 Luster is more consistent in Basra pearls
Shape ----------- 0.0 - 0.0 Equal in either, but does not preclude origin.
Inclusions ------ 0.0 - 0.0 Neither present with inclusions. No points scored.
Matching ------- 1.0 - 1.0 Equal matches are possible.
Structure ------- 1.0 - 1.0 Both known to be terraced aragonite
Size -------------- 0.0 - 0.0 Equal in either, but does not preclude origin.
Color ------------- 1.0 - 0.5 Color is more consistent in Basra pearls. Somewhat in CWFP
Translucency --- 1.0 - 0.5 Greater in Basra pearls. Somewhat in CFWP
Onset ------------ 0.0 - 1.0 Undetermined in Basra pearls, known in CFWP
Nuclear ---------- 0.0 - 1.0 Undetermined in Basra pearls, known in CFWP

ho?mo?ge?ne?ic - denoting, relating to, or involving tissues or cells belonging to individuals of identical species.

xen?o?ge?ne?ic - denoting, relating to, or involving tissues or cells belonging to individuals of different species.

my?o?stra?cum - that which is connected from the umbo to the edge of a scar, is not a single layer composed of prismatic layers, but a hierarchically complex multi-layered shape composed of minerals and an organic matrix.

per?i?o?stra?cum - a thin organic coating or skin which is the outermost layer of the shell of many shelled animals.

 

[Orient]

Hi Sophie aka FrenchPearl - The images are not as clear as needed to be able to make a call on the ID of the pearls from them, but there are some things in favour of natural over bead cultured from what can be seen. They don't look like obvious NBC. The variation in shape (look to be a few button-like ones as well as near-round and oval), the smaller drill-holes (?) and knots between each pearl. Probably worth checking properly. You just have to compare testing fees and transportation costs before deciding where to send the item. Results from both labs mentioned should not differ. Good luck.

 

[MSC]

Thanks, Dave, for sharing the scoring system and examples! Does it help to have a known set of pearls to compare a presumably unknown set to?

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

Thanks, Dave, for sharing the scoring system and examples! Does it help to have a known set of pearls to compare a presumably unknown set to?

Absolutely. Known exemplars are valuable tools in identification.

In the abstract, a broader margin of error ought to be considered.

In this instance, my suggestion is not meant to imply or certify, but to weigh options for further investigation.

The figure of 50% may appear arbitrary, because 40% may still warrant further investigation while 60% in another instance may not.

Cost, for example is not always factored from my standpoint because it has little or nothing to do with determining species or origin, but it may dictate another person's position on viability.

 

[FrenchPearl]

Thank you all for you answers.
@dave, I really like your way of determining if it's worth going to certification.
I'm going to recommend my friend to have the necklace restrung in France, and then certified (probably at the GIA as I believe they can also give an estimate for insurance value). I did searches on Rubylane, Kari's pearl, and Christies to get comparable. From what I could see, the quality (luster, shape) of her necklace is high, but a little bit on the small size to warrant a really high price. I must say that I was surprised when she sent me the measurement (6.75 for the biggest pearl), I had estimated it 8 mm when compared to my 0.8 FWP strand. But it seems that 1.25 mm makes a big difference in the rarity of natural.
I also hope she is going to keep it. I believe those strands will be rarer and rarer and might fetch higher price in the years to come.

Thanks again for all your comments and feedback !
Best
Sophie

 

[pattye]

What a good friend and lucky lady you are to see these pearls; you are giving your friend sound advice, indeed. So beautiful!! Thank you for sharing.

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

I'm going to recommend my friend to have the necklace restrung in France, and then certified (probably at the GIA as I believe they can also give an estimate for insurance value)

I'd recommend the other way around. That way the lab will have better access to the nuclei without obstructed views.

 

[CathyKeshi]

FrenchPearl, you've been so caring and diligent in searching out honest information for your friend; she's a lucky lady to have such a good friend. Thank you for sharing the photos of these lovely, glowing pearls; just beautiful. I also love the fashion style shown ... the grey cardigan, fine lace blouse, pearls ... just perfect

 

[hbyrne]

Oooh!!! They ARE nice! Thank you for sharing these beauties. I hope your friend decides to keep them.

I'd agree on the auction prices building (in the same way that diamond prices per carat do) with increases in size. A 6.5-7mm largest bead in a natural string of this type is quite 'usual' (if I can say so of something which in itself is fairly rare!). Also I think that as natural pearls have been in the press more so of late, dealers are more aware of them and this has brought more to auction.