Mystery bouton Pearl

[hbyrne]

I'm wondering if I can pick your brains on this 5mm bouton-shaped pearl which was in with a box of loose antique pearls I bought some time ago? It should have some age to it as all the rest were Georgian/Victorian vintage. Dependent on what it is, it may be perfect to sit in the centre of an antique Victorian ring I have.

Hmm....I've tried to take some pics with a torch. It's quite dirty inside and has a cavity which is sandy or gritty. The 'top' side is slightly flattened in the centre. Any views? I'd be really grateful for any help.

 

[MSC]

Really pretty! Hopefully Dave will weigh in

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

At first glance, the translucency of the pearl appears somewhat saltwater in appearance, but the luster (although quite nice) is not deep.

Drilling destroyed the nucleus, but there is a dark ring present encircling the sides of the hole. The remainder of the dark patch is flat and radiates towards the surface. The changes from proteinaceous > prismatic > nacreous occur within that narrow margin, suggesting an early cultured FWP button, less than three years in growth... likely two and a bit.

In a natural pearl, I'd expect that transition within the inner half of the pearl, not the outer. Naturals rarely present with thick rings insomuch as multiple thinner layers expressed over a longer growth period.

Not always, but a general rule of thumb is... most known naturals (especially larger ones) are over-mature. Yours is most certainly juvenile.

 

[hbyrne]

Dave, thank you so much for taking the time to compose such a thorough explanation. It's really good to hear what you are looking for when trying to learn about a pearl from candling. It did look to me as though it was freshwater as the lustre looks almost thin and not as opaque in natural light as many of the natural salt waters I have seen. I'm still astonished though, that you can tell it's age from these photos! Sadly this verdict means that this pearl won't be suitable for the Victorian ring I had it in mind for as its too modern, so I'll just have to keep looking!

On the subject of older Freshwaters, when and where did the first culturing of freshwaters begin, does anyone know?

Thank you again for your finely tuned 'pearl eyes', Dave

 

[Lagoon Island Pearls]

I think Linnaeus (extrapallial) and Saville-Kent (periostracial) pearls were saline. Buddah (extrapallial) pearls were FW mabes. None produced with any volume. Tissue grafted, market ready pearls though, I think... go to the lakes in Japan.

 

[hbyrne]

Thanks for that Dave. It sounds like an interesting research area for someone like me who sells older pearls. I really don't feel I know enough about the subject, and knowledge about older pearls and the history of pearling seems to be pretty thin on the ground amongst jewellers in general.