Sourcing replacement "vintage" pearls

[Zoe Celeste]

Hi All!

This is my dear friend's necklace, and I have taken on the task of repairing it to wearable condition, if not its former glory. It has an antique/ vintage feel, but I have no idea because the clasp has been reduced to a nondescript hook on one side and broken chain on the other. If it weren't for her sentimental attachment for this piece, I would have given up ages ago.

As for the pearls:
They are real, undrilled, and on average measure approximately 4.9mm x 5.1mm, and have a "toadstool cap" shape that is not quite a button shape, or possessing the typical off round egg shape. The luster of some of the pearls is quite nice, and others not so much... It might be the case that the better option would be to replace all of the pearls, especially since my mom, Caitlin (Pearl Maven), has said she does not remember ever seeing anything like them... I have not had any luck myself, so it is time to leave it to the experts!

Thank you,

Zoe

 

[CathyKeshi]

Well, if Caitlin has never seen anything like these ... I'm impressed

This might need the help of a silversmith/metalworker, but if the piece has that much sentimental value to the owner, could you possibly take out one row of the 3 tiers, using the pearls to replace missing ones in other tiers, hopefully ending up with one row, and the bottom (second) row, with dangling charm pearls? Just an idea ...

PS: If this results in a few extra links, you could make earrings ...

 

[Katbran]

or remove the pearls in last row just before the chain - some are gone anyways. That gives you 5 pearls to work into the empty spots and the plain circles won't distract at all.

 

[JerseyPearl]

I would be tempted to use other cabochon stones, randomly. Like labradorite, or moonstone, along with the pearls.

 

[SunSeeker]

I don't know, Cathy, it looks like each 3 pearl column is soldered together. So you would have to remove several columns to replace the 8 missings pearl. It's a cool design, although I'm not sure what is holding the pearls in place. Maybe if you used button shaped to match the front facing side, at least it would look restored from the front view. I also can't believe Caitlin has never seen anything like this!!

 

[pattye]

Zoe, what a pretty and unusual necklace! So I'm not clear if the pearls are bezel set, or glued? Have you checked with a loupe? If that many of the settings have failed, probably all the pearls need to be removed, have the glue cleaned from the pearl and bezel and reglued. Not an easy job at all. Many fw button pearls are sort of domed, with a flat bottom where they grew against the shell. Are the bezels consistent in size, or have they been made specifically to fit the individual pearl?

 

[Zoe Celeste]

Hi Cathy!

Seriously! I have asked her about his necklace for maybe a decade (perhaps a *slight* exaggeration - maybe its only been 8 years), and she has always said that the "pearls are unique," and so is the setting, and her advice always pretty much boils down to a "good luck with that" lol

Yes, my (soon-to-be) hubby is becoming a silversmith, and I was thinking the same thing. He, on the other hand, was not so sure lol. The columns of pearls appear to be soldered together and attach to the next column with links. This makes removing rows possibly hazardous. Removing columns might work better, but there are so many missing pearls that removing so many columns might disrupt the "look" of the necklace.

I love the idea of re-purposing the odds and ends into earrings, though!! It might turn into a "Frankenstein" set - earrings, a pendant, and bracelet, maybe if the whole choker thing doesn't work out...

 

[Zoe Celeste]

Katbran,

This may be more feasible...

 

[Zoe Celeste]

Sunseeker,

Yes, I believe you are correct and the columns of pearls are soldered together.

It really is a beautiful design, and I believe the "what" is holding the pearls in is precisely the issue! It doesn't seem like much, and in just handling it to take pictures, several pearls fell out. Maybe at one time it was glued? We know the danger of soldering around the pearls, and it looks like the designer of the necklace did too so many of the rings around the pearls are not closed securely.

I never really believed her saying that she has never seen anything like this... but I'm starting to believe her lol... The pearls themselves are such a peculiar shape, and are quite lovely for a choker because they are flat on the back. I believe my friend bought it from a curiosity shop/ flea market in Mount Shasta, CA where she used to work as a teenager so, all hopes of any provenance is long gone...

 

[Zoe Celeste]

JerseyPearl,

What a magnificent idea!! That would make it even more of a one-of-a-kind/ statement piece.

 

[Zoe Celeste]

Thank you, Pattye!!

That actually be the main issue with this necklace - it is not really bezel set, because the rings are open and not fully closed and there doesn't really seem to be glue either... This is possibly due to the fact that this may be a vintage/ antique piece and the bezels broke, or the glue dried up, or maybe the designer was just counting on hope and a prayer to keep them in, lol. There is a distinct layer of crud around the pearls, making glue under all that junk a possibility. If it is there, it is no longer doing its job, and as a result the pearls spin in place and fall out easier than a nuclear bomb, haha.

I believe you are totally right about needing to practically start over. The glue is just not dependable enough to risk replacing the lost pearls to just lose more of the original pearls.... and a monumental task, especially coupled with having a baby and planning a wedding and out-of-state move... so maybe to the back burner it will go again.

Undrilled button pearls would probably be our best bet, but I have yet to find any in person that fit the bill. Some of the pearls have really lovely pink overtones, and I would love to elevate the rest of the pearls to those shining examples.

The bezels are relatively uniform in size, but definitely give off the handmade, less than perfectly consistant vibe.

Obviously, I really love my friend dearly or I would have deserted this long ago, lol!

 

[SunSeeker]

Zoe, congrats on all the wonderful blessings in your life these days! ...at least putting it on the back burner will give you time to either hunt for pearls or cabs, or research other options. Could it be they were once glued, and the glue simpy lost integrity over time? Maybe resetting the pearls would give you the best piece of mind and an opportunity for a good cleaning. But a big job, nonetheless.

 

[CathyKeshi]

I think Katbran has a great eye, and the best solution to restore the necklace ... although the idea of filling the empty spaces with gems is enchanting! Meanwhile, did someone say "baby" and "wedding" ????? ... sounds like congratulations are in order!

 

[Zoe Celeste]

Thank you, SunSeeker! I feel truly blessed everyday!!

It knows the back burner well, and probably wouldn't mind an even more extended stay, lol. My feeling is that they were indeed once glued, and resetting them is probably worth the piece of mind, so the piece can last as long as possible... maybe even generations, making the effort well worth it in the end.

 

[Zoe Celeste]

Thank you, Cathy!!!

My little guy, Arthur, is 7 months old and Caitlin is an extremely happy Granny! Our wedding is approaching fast, and we are doing it DIY style, so there is TONS left to do. Even with everything to do, it is a truly happy and exciting time for us.

As for the necklace, I appreciate the wonderful ideas! The addition of gems is truly a delicious way to "spice it up," and may be worth the effort to include them in the final project.

 

[Pearly-Whites]

I do love this necklace and can't wait to see it finished.

 

[JerseyPearl]

Whatever you decide will be absolutely delightful...but how about some baby pictures to really get us thrilled?

 

[CathyKeshi]

I second the "baby pictures" request ... got any with Granny Caitlin and baby?

 

[Zoe Celeste]

Thank you, Pearly Whites! I will be sure to post pics when we figure out what to do with it!

Thanks for the vote of confidence, JerseyPearl!

As requested:
Here are some pretty recent pics


Arthur's first teeth 6 months old


Granny Caitlin and Arthur


Food is Awesome!! 7 months old


Family photo: 3/26/2017

We are totally blessed!!!

 

[SunSeeker]

beautiful pictures, Zoe! very handsome family