Stringing Tutorial with photos: Stringing on Serafil, Beaders Secret & Power Pro
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Pearl Dreams
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I made an "Endless" necklace today without a clasp. Here is how. (I have modified these instructions recently to improve the technique.)
1. Make a large loose knot (which will eventually be cut off) and place a spring type bead stopper on the thread so as to leave a 3 inch gap between the knot and the pearls you will string on. (Technically you don't need the knot but it provides a bit of extra security if the spring bead stopper releases accidentally.)
[Purpose of the long tail: You will need to grasp this thread "tail" later when finishing the strand, and can later pick the large loose knot apart, string the tail onto a needle, and pass the tail back through the previous pearl to conceal the cut off end.]
2. String on the last 3 pearls from one end of the necklace and the first 3 pearls from the other end of the necklace without knotting between them. (i.e. the order is 3rd pearl from the end, 2nd from the end, end pearl, then continue with pearls from the other end of the strand with end pearl, 2nd pearl from the end, 3rd pearl from the end).
Using pearls from both ends of the strand ensures that the knots you make later between them are balanced across the back of the necklace on your neck.
3. After the 6th pearl make a knot. String on all the rest of your pearls, knotting as you go.
For a very long strand I recommend using the technique described starting at post #34, as it avoids the tangling of a very long thread.)
String on the final pearl and make a knot.
Now you are ready to connect the two ends of the strand so they form one continuous circle.
4. Insert the needle back through the first pearl (entering from the side where the bead stopper is). Pull the needle and thread through the pearl, snugging up the thread by pulling the "tail" with one hand and the needle with the other hand, in opposite directions. The knot you made after the last pearl serves as the knot separating the last pearl and the first pearl. Do not cut off the tail yet!
5. While maintaining the tension keeping the two ends of the necklace together, make a knot between the 1st and 2nd pearls, then pass the needle through the 2nd pearl.
Make a knot between the 2nd and 3rd pearls, then between the 3rd and 4th pearls, between the 4th and 5th and between the 5th and 6th. (That is 5 knots to ensure the necklace doesn't come apart. More knots = more security without needing to apply glue. If you don't want that many knots, then string fewer pearls on initially.)
6. To conceal the end of the thread before trimming it off, pass the needle through one more pearl and cut it off without making a knot. (I like to use a Thread Zap for this as it melts the end of synthetic threads so they don't fray. Do not use Thread Zap on silk-- it chars the thread.)
7. Now go back and trim off the original large loose knot with its tail of thread, close to the first pearl. Or, if you want to conceal the cut off end, pick the large knot apart, thread the tail onto a needle, and pass it back through the previous pearl, then cut it off without making a knot. If it's too tight, you can use just one of the threads of the tail to do this, and trim the other one.
Edit: I found a video on YouTube that shows a slight variation of this:
If you use the method in the video, DO use a bit of glue on the final knots.
One more addition: For those who want to restring a necklace long enough to slip over their heads but not long enough to be doubled, but who prefer to connect to a clasp rather than attempt an endless necklace, a solution is to attach your gimp to an infinity connector (a.k.a."infinity component"), or any connector that has loops large enough to thread your gimp through. (That's assuming you want to use gimp at all. You could also just attach your thread directly to the loops of a connector.)
You could also wire wrap any bead to serve as the connector, for a necklace long enough to slip over your head. Put a piece of wire through the bead and make a wrapped loop on either side. Connect your thread to this bead instead of a clasp.
It occurs to me that you could also use this method to place a wire-wrapped focal bead in the front of the necklace.
1. Make a large loose knot (which will eventually be cut off) and place a spring type bead stopper on the thread so as to leave a 3 inch gap between the knot and the pearls you will string on. (Technically you don't need the knot but it provides a bit of extra security if the spring bead stopper releases accidentally.)
[Purpose of the long tail: You will need to grasp this thread "tail" later when finishing the strand, and can later pick the large loose knot apart, string the tail onto a needle, and pass the tail back through the previous pearl to conceal the cut off end.]
2. String on the last 3 pearls from one end of the necklace and the first 3 pearls from the other end of the necklace without knotting between them. (i.e. the order is 3rd pearl from the end, 2nd from the end, end pearl, then continue with pearls from the other end of the strand with end pearl, 2nd pearl from the end, 3rd pearl from the end).
Using pearls from both ends of the strand ensures that the knots you make later between them are balanced across the back of the necklace on your neck.
3. After the 6th pearl make a knot. String on all the rest of your pearls, knotting as you go.
For a very long strand I recommend using the technique described starting at post #34, as it avoids the tangling of a very long thread.)
String on the final pearl and make a knot.
Now you are ready to connect the two ends of the strand so they form one continuous circle.
4. Insert the needle back through the first pearl (entering from the side where the bead stopper is). Pull the needle and thread through the pearl, snugging up the thread by pulling the "tail" with one hand and the needle with the other hand, in opposite directions. The knot you made after the last pearl serves as the knot separating the last pearl and the first pearl. Do not cut off the tail yet!
5. While maintaining the tension keeping the two ends of the necklace together, make a knot between the 1st and 2nd pearls, then pass the needle through the 2nd pearl.
Make a knot between the 2nd and 3rd pearls, then between the 3rd and 4th pearls, between the 4th and 5th and between the 5th and 6th. (That is 5 knots to ensure the necklace doesn't come apart. More knots = more security without needing to apply glue. If you don't want that many knots, then string fewer pearls on initially.)
6. To conceal the end of the thread before trimming it off, pass the needle through one more pearl and cut it off without making a knot. (I like to use a Thread Zap for this as it melts the end of synthetic threads so they don't fray. Do not use Thread Zap on silk-- it chars the thread.)
7. Now go back and trim off the original large loose knot with its tail of thread, close to the first pearl. Or, if you want to conceal the cut off end, pick the large knot apart, thread the tail onto a needle, and pass it back through the previous pearl, then cut it off without making a knot. If it's too tight, you can use just one of the threads of the tail to do this, and trim the other one.
Edit: I found a video on YouTube that shows a slight variation of this:
One more addition: For those who want to restring a necklace long enough to slip over their heads but not long enough to be doubled, but who prefer to connect to a clasp rather than attempt an endless necklace, a solution is to attach your gimp to an infinity connector (a.k.a."infinity component"), or any connector that has loops large enough to thread your gimp through. (That's assuming you want to use gimp at all. You could also just attach your thread directly to the loops of a connector.)
You could also wire wrap any bead to serve as the connector, for a necklace long enough to slip over your head. Put a piece of wire through the bead and make a wrapped loop on either side. Connect your thread to this bead instead of a clasp.
It occurs to me that you could also use this method to place a wire-wrapped focal bead in the front of the necklace.
Caitlin
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I am totally crazy about power pro thread. I don't care that it only has two colors, white and moss green. However, for those of you who really want colored thread that is pretty good, better than silk, anyway, go to Pattye's Etsy shop. On the last few pages, she has some European thread of some kind. Anyway, it comes in lots of colors! LOTS of colors.
I have not used it yet and don't know how well that knot slides in tightly and compactly, compared to power pro, but for $2.50 for a card, it is worth trying!
I have not used it yet and don't know how well that knot slides in tightly and compactly, compared to power pro, but for $2.50 for a card, it is worth trying!
maiakity
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This is what I used on my pondslime strand...I don't have any experience with powerpro, but I think that it made nice, tight knots and it was fairly easy to work with. I did have it break on me once and had to do the string over, but the thread had become frayed in that place making it weaker I think. It does come in almost every color you can imagine!
Pearl Dreams
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I restrung my dyed FWP today, formerly strung with moss green Power Pro. I am experimenting with a few colors of Pattye's Serafil thread
link: http://www.etsy.com/listing/1306505...type=gallery&ga_ship_to=US&ga_search_type=all.
I found the thread to be soft/silky (easy on the hands, nice drape) and a bit slippery; I had to take extra care as the thread kept slipping off my tweezers.
I mentioned this to Pattye...but then the thought struck me: If the thread is this slippery, maybe I can dispense with the tweezers altogether!
So just now I took 15 loose pearls and knotted them up-- without any tweezers! I made the overhand loop as always, used my fingers to guide the loose knot loop fairly close to the pearl (an inch or less) and then pulled the two threads apart firmly.
The knot slid into place right next to the pearl without any trouble!
So there you have it, folks-- easy knotting without tweezers!
I plan to wear my black pearls strand a lot for the next few weeks to see if any stretching occurs.
I've already tried wetting the mini strand of pearls I just knotted. The thread did not lose color or do anything else it shouldn't do.
I plan to knot my next necklace entirely without the tweezers.
link: http://www.etsy.com/listing/1306505...type=gallery&ga_ship_to=US&ga_search_type=all.
I found the thread to be soft/silky (easy on the hands, nice drape) and a bit slippery; I had to take extra care as the thread kept slipping off my tweezers.
I mentioned this to Pattye...but then the thought struck me: If the thread is this slippery, maybe I can dispense with the tweezers altogether!
So just now I took 15 loose pearls and knotted them up-- without any tweezers! I made the overhand loop as always, used my fingers to guide the loose knot loop fairly close to the pearl (an inch or less) and then pulled the two threads apart firmly.
The knot slid into place right next to the pearl without any trouble!
So there you have it, folks-- easy knotting without tweezers!
I plan to wear my black pearls strand a lot for the next few weeks to see if any stretching occurs.
I've already tried wetting the mini strand of pearls I just knotted. The thread did not lose color or do anything else it shouldn't do.
I plan to knot my next necklace entirely without the tweezers.
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Pearl Dreams
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Today I restrung my silver blue baroque akoyas using the sky blue Serafil thread Pattye is selling on Etsy. The color is perfect.
I didn't use tweezers! Even when the knot formed 3 inches away from the pearl, pulling the two threads apart firmly made the knot slide to the right position.
I didn't use tweezers! Even when the knot formed 3 inches away from the pearl, pulling the two threads apart firmly made the knot slide to the right position.
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Pearl Dreams
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Thanks, GemGeek! I like these pearls quite a lot.
Yes, this polyester thread is forgiving, and therefore easy to use for people who are new to knotting.
KarinK, I use the same technique that I taught earlier in the thread for starting and finishing. The overhand knots are formed in between the beginning and ending pearls the same way, and drawn into position next to each pearl by pulling the two threads apart.
Perhaps you are wondering how to keep the existing 2 threads that you're knotting around from bunching up while you tighten the knot, since there are no tweezers to hold them in place?
It's easy: [Edit: see photos in the next post.]
Loosely form the overhand knot loop between the pearls over the two existing threads. Then hold the 2 as-yet-unknotted pearls in one hand, letting the clasp end hang down so that gravity keeps the threads taut, and use your other hand to pull on the needle end of the thread, thus guiding the knot loop down into position next to the pearl being knotted, and tightening the knot. Then pull the two threads of the knot loop apart to further tighten and firmly seat the knot.
It sounds complicated but it's not, at all. Just let gravity help you.
When finishing the strand, the gap between the end pearls is very small. There is only one place for the knot to go, and it will go there automatically when you pull the needle end of the thread to tighten the knot. Then pull the 2 threads apart firmly as usual to further tighten and seat the knot.
Tweezers are not needed, but when using fingers only, it's hard to get the knot loop anywhere near the pearl! It doesn't matter-- the Serafil / Beaders Secret thread is so slick that the knot will slide when you pull the threads apart firmly. It is tough thread and will not break.
But if you prefer, you can use an awl (or needle, or nail) to guide the knot loop closer to the pearl before tightening it. It's just not necessary to do so when using Serafil / Beaders Secret.
__________________________________________________________________________
For the silver blue pearls, after knotting off the first 3 pearls, I actually strung all but the last 4 pearls on at once. I then used the technique I taught in posts 35-37.
This involves sliding one pearl over at a time, forming an overhand loop, dropping the already-knotted pearls through the loop to make the knot, then pulling the two strands apart to position and seat the knot. All without tweezers. Then I strung on the final 4 pearls, strung on the gimp and clasp, and back-knotted, tightening the knots without tweezers.
____________________________________________________________________
Because the fit between the final pearls can be very snug while back-knotting, it is still good to have tweezers on hand to help pull the needle through from between the pearls as needed. So I definitely recommend buying pointy tweezers anyway.
Yes, this polyester thread is forgiving, and therefore easy to use for people who are new to knotting.
KarinK, I use the same technique that I taught earlier in the thread for starting and finishing. The overhand knots are formed in between the beginning and ending pearls the same way, and drawn into position next to each pearl by pulling the two threads apart.
Perhaps you are wondering how to keep the existing 2 threads that you're knotting around from bunching up while you tighten the knot, since there are no tweezers to hold them in place?
It's easy: [Edit: see photos in the next post.]
Loosely form the overhand knot loop between the pearls over the two existing threads. Then hold the 2 as-yet-unknotted pearls in one hand, letting the clasp end hang down so that gravity keeps the threads taut, and use your other hand to pull on the needle end of the thread, thus guiding the knot loop down into position next to the pearl being knotted, and tightening the knot. Then pull the two threads of the knot loop apart to further tighten and firmly seat the knot.
It sounds complicated but it's not, at all. Just let gravity help you.
When finishing the strand, the gap between the end pearls is very small. There is only one place for the knot to go, and it will go there automatically when you pull the needle end of the thread to tighten the knot. Then pull the 2 threads apart firmly as usual to further tighten and seat the knot.
Tweezers are not needed, but when using fingers only, it's hard to get the knot loop anywhere near the pearl! It doesn't matter-- the Serafil / Beaders Secret thread is so slick that the knot will slide when you pull the threads apart firmly. It is tough thread and will not break.
But if you prefer, you can use an awl (or needle, or nail) to guide the knot loop closer to the pearl before tightening it. It's just not necessary to do so when using Serafil / Beaders Secret.
__________________________________________________________________________
For the silver blue pearls, after knotting off the first 3 pearls, I actually strung all but the last 4 pearls on at once. I then used the technique I taught in posts 35-37.
This involves sliding one pearl over at a time, forming an overhand loop, dropping the already-knotted pearls through the loop to make the knot, then pulling the two strands apart to position and seat the knot. All without tweezers. Then I strung on the final 4 pearls, strung on the gimp and clasp, and back-knotted, tightening the knots without tweezers.
____________________________________________________________________
Because the fit between the final pearls can be very snug while back-knotting, it is still good to have tweezers on hand to help pull the needle through from between the pearls as needed. So I definitely recommend buying pointy tweezers anyway.
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Pearl Dreams
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Instead of updating the previous post, here are the photos my daughter took just now. I used black Serafil so it would stand out against the white pearls, just to demonstrate.
1. Here I'm making a knot between the first and second pearls. I'm showing you how I hold the other two pearls with one hand and allow the pearl with the clasp to hang down while I guide the knot into position before tightening it. No tweezers necessary.
2. Tighten and seat the knot by pulling the two threads apart firmly. The thread can take it, it's strong.
3. When back-knotting, you are inserting the needle through a pearl that already has 2 threads going through it. The risk with a twisted thread (like Serafil or Beaders Secret) is that the needle can split or get snagged on those threads, making it hard to pull the needle through. By holding the thread that's already inside the pearl taut, you make space for the needle to pass through cleanly. Note: If the needle tip has frayed, snip it with the with wire cutters before back-knotting to reduce chance of snagging.
4. Tweezers can be useful to pull a needle out from the tight space between the pearls, when back-knotting at the finish.
Any more questions, just ask!
1. Here I'm making a knot between the first and second pearls. I'm showing you how I hold the other two pearls with one hand and allow the pearl with the clasp to hang down while I guide the knot into position before tightening it. No tweezers necessary.
2. Tighten and seat the knot by pulling the two threads apart firmly. The thread can take it, it's strong.
3. When back-knotting, you are inserting the needle through a pearl that already has 2 threads going through it. The risk with a twisted thread (like Serafil or Beaders Secret) is that the needle can split or get snagged on those threads, making it hard to pull the needle through. By holding the thread that's already inside the pearl taut, you make space for the needle to pass through cleanly. Note: If the needle tip has frayed, snip it with the with wire cutters before back-knotting to reduce chance of snagging.
4. Tweezers can be useful to pull a needle out from the tight space between the pearls, when back-knotting at the finish.
Any more questions, just ask!
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pattye
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Great tutorial and perfect photos, Pearl Dreams! Thank you for the positive remarks about my Serafil thread, too. I often use my pliers to pull the needle through those last pearls just as you do with the tweezers. Great tip about snipping the tip of the needle.
Fab blue akoyas, look great on you! Glad the thread color worked for them.
Fab blue akoyas, look great on you! Glad the thread color worked for them.
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Pearl Dreams
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Pattye, thank you-- and yes, pliers work well for that too!
Katbran, the thread does not come with a needle. It is fine and needs to be doubled to make knots thick enough not to pass through the pearls.
Which brings up another question for Pattye:
Does Serafil or Beaders Secret thread come in different sizes? I found this size comparable to 20# Power Pro, and just right for the average pearl hole, but let's say someone wanted a thicker/heavier thread for larger bead holes, would they be obliged to simply quadruple the thread?
Katbran, the thread does not come with a needle. It is fine and needs to be doubled to make knots thick enough not to pass through the pearls.
Which brings up another question for Pattye:
Does Serafil or Beaders Secret thread come in different sizes? I found this size comparable to 20# Power Pro, and just right for the average pearl hole, but let's say someone wanted a thicker/heavier thread for larger bead holes, would they be obliged to simply quadruple the thread?
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Pearl Dreams
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No, it isn't!
In fact, I was tearing along at such a good clip knotting that I accidentally made 2 knots in a row, forgetting to put in a pearl. I had a devil of a time undoing the second knot, which I had already tightened! (I did finally get the knot undone with an awl but it took a good 5 minutes. That knot was tight! Fortunately picking it apart hadn't damaged the thread, so I was able to keep on knotting. Silk would not have been so forgiving.)
In fact, I was tearing along at such a good clip knotting that I accidentally made 2 knots in a row, forgetting to put in a pearl. I had a devil of a time undoing the second knot, which I had already tightened! (I did finally get the knot undone with an awl but it took a good 5 minutes. That knot was tight! Fortunately picking it apart hadn't damaged the thread, so I was able to keep on knotting. Silk would not have been so forgiving.)
pattye
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Yes, PD, changing the number of threads used is a good way to adjust for the size of the pearl hole.
This thread, Serafil, does come in a heavier size, which I've experimented with; is it considerably heavier and makes a larger, more casual looking knot because of the hard finish of the thread. It also comes in finer sizes~Serafil is actually a commercial sewing thread from Europe, adapted for pearl stringing.
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Pearl Dreams
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That's good to know, Pattye.
In any case the size you are selling seems to be the most commonly called-for size, which I've used on all but my smallest pearls (I strung the 3.5 momme strands with 10# Power Pro due to the tiny pearls on the ends.)
In any case the size you are selling seems to be the most commonly called-for size, which I've used on all but my smallest pearls (I strung the 3.5 momme strands with 10# Power Pro due to the tiny pearls on the ends.)
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Pearl Dreams, this is very helpful review tutorial. Does knotting without tweezers shorten the knotting time?
I saw the color chart on PriceScope, they have a wide selection of colors. Your strands look beautiful with the matching thread. You'll inspire many Tahitian ladies to change their green thread.
I saw the color chart on PriceScope, they have a wide selection of colors. Your strands look beautiful with the matching thread. You'll inspire many Tahitian ladies to change their green thread.
