Appraising natural pearls

[Taylor]

I have inherited what I believe is a natural pearl graduated necklace of about 16". It is currently at a local jeweler's awaiting a visit from a certified appraiser. I'm nearly certain this necklace was purchased from Marcus & Co. in New York City in 1912. It has a clasp of 6 old mine cut diamonds. The first owner kept a diary that notes the day she received a pearl necklace the week prior to her 1912 debut when she was 18 and also a note that 2 pearls from a pin were added to the necklace. She was 18 at the time. Would any of this information make any difference to someone trying to appraise the piece? Thank you.

[Bogus]

Hi, Taylor. Your necklace sounds lovely! Any chance of a picture?

First, a disclaimer here...I'm an antique jewelry fan and collector...NOT an expert.

I'd think that provenance...the written story (do you have a copy of her diary entries? )...do add value to the piece and the appraiser should know about it. I'd also alert him/her to the possible Marcus&Co connection, in case there's a stamp or hallmark that you've missed.

I'm not a pearl expert. As a collector, I'd want more than a simple appraisal saying that the pearls are natural (not cultivated). I'd want a lab report (GIA or AGTA) confirming it.

Bogus

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi,

I second that. Get an identification first and then a value appraisal. The transfer of pearls from a pin would only affect the value if that seriously harmed the matching or if they were cultured. There would be no likely positive value contribution from the addition of two pearls unless they were rather large.

Zeide

[Taylor]

Thank you both for replying. Now I'm a bit confused. The appraiser who is coming to value them (and two other old pieces that include pearls and other gems) is supposed to do an x-ray to determine for sure if they are naturals. Because of their age, no one seems to think they are cultured, but there is a possiblity they are imitation. I was assuming from what I'd read here, that he/she could tell me which and determine also their accurate size, roundness, and color. They are a golden cream. As for the more illusive qualities like orient, there I might need a pearl expert. But do you think I'm wrong to have the x-ray done here first? Are they that hard to do or read? I was also concerned about their age. Does age add to or take away value? They seem to be in good condition when I looked at them under the jewler's loop. But I read somewhere on these forums that 100 years of wear could effect the value. There also seems to be a point of dimensioning returns here. How do you know when to stop paying for experts for such a small piece? I can send photos after I get them back at the end of the month.

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi Taylor,

With a 1912 vintage, your pearls can be either natural, cultured, or faux. Faux will be the easiest to determine and an x-ray will be a good idea to check if they are cultured or not. If they are naturals, a hundred years here or there do not affect value. I have some that are over a 1,000 years old and are quite excellent. In cultured pearls, age does make a difference but how much of a difference it makes also depends on treatments applied to the nucleus or the finished pearls. Given the particular period in time they were purchased they can also be two different kinds of cultured. They can be nucleated with a shell bead or with a natural seed pearl and they can have been grown in the gonad (typically for bead nucleated with less nacre and more roundness or in the lip in which case they would be pearl nucleated). The pearl nucleated ones typically test as naturals and until 1920 were also sold as naturals.

Zeide

[Bogus]

How do you know when to stop paying for experts for such a small piece?

I guess it depends on what you plan to do with them. If you're only having them appraised for insurance purposes, I'd stop with the appraisal. If you're hoping to sell them, depending on their potential value, it might be worth sending them out to a lab...

Bogus

[Richard W. Wise]

Taylor,

The GIA certficate is the most respected grading report. Your "appraisal strategy" depends somewhat on your objective. If you plan to keep the necklace and just want to insure it, your present approach, expert with Xray should do fine. If you are planning on selling, particularly through an auction house the GIA report would give a potential buyer confidence that the pearls are indeed natural and would have a positive effect on bidding.

[Taylor]

Thank you all,
What you have told me along with many other things I've read on this forum and others has really helped. I'm not sure what I will do with the necklace but nothing quickly. My daugther is getting married and I think it would be lovely for her to wear something of her great-great grandmother's. After that, I don't know. I find this length awkward, too short for formal wear but with the fancy clasp too formal for casual wear. In its day, it must have been meant for young ladies under 20. I've seen so many options here from selling to re-working. I guess for now, the appraisal will work fine.

[VISHRUT GEMS]

hi we are from India and we only deal in Natural Pearls.We are intrested to buy your pearls if you are intresyed in selling it please contact us.We are in New York every 2 months.If you can send the pics of the pearl it will be very greatful.

We will pay you First.and then take the goods.So i think you wont have any problem.

[Taylor]

The pearls are not for sale at this time. I just got them restrung and want to wear them to my daughter's wedding or let her wear them. I started another thread in this forum that includes the appraiser's description and some not-so-good pictures of them. Thanks for your interest.