"Chocolate" Tahitian Cultured Pearls

[jshepherd]

Gems & Gemology - The Quarterly Journal of The Gemological Institute of America
Volume XLI
Marisa Zachovay

At the 2005 Tucson Gem shows, Emiko Pearls International Inc. (Bellevue, Washington) had some cultured pearls marketed as "Chocolate Pearls," that were processed to lighten their color. Although this attractive product has been available for 4-5 years, many in the trade are still unaware of it. The colors range from a pleasing dark brown to light yellow-brown, and have been described in the trade as "copper," "bronze," or "honey" colored; these hues are not typical of natural-color Tahitian cultured pearls. The luster of the "chocolate" cultured pearls varies from satin-like to metallic. The available sizes range from 9 to 15mm, although larger ones have been produced. Production is limited to a few hundred per month because only certain Tahitian cultured pearls can be successfully treated.

The coloration of these cultured pearls results from a proprietary two-stage process. Ron Greenidge of Emiko Pearls International kindly provided the general information from the company that performs the procedure. The first step is to remove color from the selected Tahitian cultured pearls, which would be compared to the bleaching process used on Akoya cultured pearls. In the second step, the bleached color is stabilized. The company reported that the process does not involve the use of dye or heat, and the brown color is stable under conditions associated with routine wear. Since Emiko Pearls International began selling the "chocolate" cultured pearls when they were first introduced to the market, they have not encountered any problems with color stability.

The exact nature of the process remains undisclosed, and future studies are needed to establish identification criteria. Preliminary research suggests that careful observation of the long-wave UV fluorescence will likely be helpful in identifying these cultured pearls, when compared to known natural colors as reference.

[Kevin Canning]

I'd love to see a picture of this, sounds interesting. Although I have to be honest the idea of "brown" pearls doesn't sound very appealing when compared to the natural colors already available in Tahitian pearls.

[jshepherd]

There is a photo in the latest edition of Gems & Gemology on page 184. It is a multi-hued 13.6-16.7mm strand. I am yet undecided whether I like it or not. The luster looks too WSSP satiny and muted. The pearls used are AB at best, so it is not perfectly clean either. I wonder if they use 'A' lots as well, or if they are just not candidates for treatment. Pricing is not listed so it is difficult to tell.

[Caitlin]

Almost 1.75 kilos of the fw pearls I got from China this summer can only be described as brown. I call the color "expresso". They were "dirt" cheap, too, a reflection of their actual popularity?

Those were the first brown pearls I ever saw or heard of. These Tahititans are the second. Is this some kind of trend? The Chinese are so quick to copy trends, makes me wonder if brown pearls is going to be a trend... sao far, the freshwaters aren't very special in that color.....

I am going to include one of my less than great photos which doesn't get the brown tones too well, but these are the low end of the "trend" 10.5mm.

[purepearls]

I've noticed a few jewelry stores carrying these chocolate Tahitian pearls. I personally am not a fan of the color but it is very interesting.

[JLee]

Though I am not in the industry, yet, I am very interested in what is happening in the pearl community. I am currently working on my GG certification. I was introduced to brown, chocolate, pearls this past weekend while visiting Dallas. They intrigued me enough to Google them, which led me to your forum. My husband and I went into the new David Yurman store in NorthPark Mall when I noticed a strand of multi-colored pearls that had these chocolate colors in it. I inquired about the strand and was told that these pearls would be a fashion statement for fall. I mentioned seeing these pearls to a friend in the business and she confirmed what I was told. I have since read an article in "Gems and Gemology" that also said anything brown would be a big hit for fall. (http://www.gia.edu/newsroom/3720/237...es_details.cfm) I would love to learn more about the chocolate pearls if anyone has information. I would also like to know if anyone has information on putting together multi-colored strands where the client (wholesale or retail) chooses the colors themselves. Thank you for letting me join your forum. I look forward to an exchange of information and ideas.

[Kevin Canning]

I'm really not a fan of these chocolate pearls, I've yet to hear from someone that thinks that brown is a nice color for a pearl. I think there is a certain novelty factor there, but i think that's as far as it goes - but we'll see.

I would also like to know if anyone has information on putting together multi-colored strands where the client (wholesale or retail) chooses the colors themselves.

I'm sure most the pearl dealers on the forum here can help you design a multi-color strand with the colors you want, just contact one of us.

[purepearls]

Yes, David Yurman also has matched strands of "chocolate" Tahitian pearls as well. I agree with Kevin that it is quite novel at this time. The surface of the pearls appeared dull. I personally am not a fan but I can see where people who like the warm shades would like them. I think if you want a multi-color strand, really nice chocolate Tahitians mixed with different shades of Golden South Seas would look fabulous. While at Neiman's yesterday, I noticed that David Yurman has been mixing South Seas, Tahitians, and Freshwaters for multi-colored strands. In this case, you can put natural-colored Freshwaters in the strand as well in the peach family to stay in the warmer tones. I prefer the shades of golden and brown but the sky is the limit.

[JLee]

I agree that the chocolate pearl does not have the lustre or the orient of other pearls. There are many other colors that have a much more pleasing color, but fashion addicts don't care if it is pleasing or not. IMHO They just want what is hot. At least that has been my take on most things driven by what the designers, and more importantly the marketers, put out there for the retail customer. In today, out tomorrow. I appreciate the willingness to help me with my mission to get that perfect multi-colored strand. I may just take you up on it. Thank you for the feedback.

[purepearls]

You are absolutely correct! In the fashion world, it is all about what's hot now. Designers are either creating those trends or following them, but they typically do not last more than a season or two.

[pearltime]

I kind of like them, Caitlin . Since they may be a passing trend I wouldn't want to pay a lot of money for them so I wouldn't buy expensive ones.. However I can see wearing them as an accessory for fall.

[gia student]

when i sold at a hospital craft show last november i had alot of brown pearl necklaces that i handmade with tigereye, i sold them all i had necklaces that had white pearls and every 3rd or forth pearl was brown and they all sold to and the matching earings. i like the brown pearl look and i think alot of my customers was surprise that the brown stone were pearls and thats what made them buy them, it was *traditional* pearls in a non traditional way. i still buy brown freshwater pearls here and there i like a spot of color with my pieces i make .

[AnnaDK]

This article on "chocolate tahitians" reminds me of the trends in "pistachio tahitians." I think they are just what you mentioned, something that is "hot" and will not withstand the same "timeless quality" of the rich peacock tahitians. Especially since these chocolate pearls have been treated, i imagine true pearl connaisseurs are not the dominant market. Instead, they seem to be treated for those more concerned with the "look." Furthermore, by using color as the ploy for customers, it lends itself more to trends than discoveries. Brown, and it's various shades, is a very in color right now and also compliments the "natural" appeal to pearls (as they are organic). Right now for summer, the tans and whites are popular, and as summer matures into fall dark browns and rich oranges will be very popular. Chocolate tahitians could just be the new "must have" item to go with plaids and animal prints, but it would be just that: a new trend. Could be fun--some of the loose tahitian pearls we have at Pearl Paradise are very brown and truly gorgeous. They look almost like tiger's eyes. These are of course natural though. I wonder how the chocolate pearls would be priced, given their treatments.

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi Anna,

The chocolate color occurs also naturally particularly in the Cook Islands. However, peacock pearls are often vapor deposition treated.

Zeide

[The Pearl Outlet]

Finally! Here’s a picture of Tahitian chocolate pearls. As usual, don't copy the picture or use it elsewhere. It is copyrighted by our photographer and us.

We are currently carrying chocolate Tahitian pearls in sizes ranging from 11mm to 15mm in size. Feel free to PM me or call with any questions or comments. Any feedback would be appreciated.