Basics of identifying true Sea pearls

[theamericanlotus]

Hello again my friends. more basics questions. I keep thinking I am getting better at telling fresh from south sea, but unless side by side, I still can get fooled easy.
Can you guys give me some of your tested tips to identify a true Sea pearl from a freshwater. Drilled and undrilled. Seems trusting the seller is the first line of defense, but this is not possible in my situation.
I have friends searching for pearls all over the orient, and none are pearl experts. The pics I get are way too fuzzy, and I cant seem to be able to explain what macro mode means.
They need my help, so I need yours.
Thanks all
Michael

[Kevin Canning]

Hi Michael,

The best way to tell the difference is going to be experience and after a while it will be fairly easy to tell the difference. What you'll notice is that South Sea pearls have a softer luster the Freshwater pearls, much more like satin. You will also notice differences in the color of the 2 pearls, with silvery body colors being common with SS pearls.

I've attached an image of South Sea pearls and an image of Freshwater pearls as a reference. The top one is a pic of the most common Freshwater pearl colors and the bottom are common colors found in South Sea pearls.



I would suggest you visit some jewelry stores to get a chance to see more strands close up and also visit online stores as most are filled with pictures of pearls.

[perlas]

I have to agree that for most part it's experience. "Once you see it, you know it" kind of thing but rather difficult to explain but I'll try...

These are for commercially available pearls and what's typical in the market.

South Sea pearls
Size: 8mm up (Most available at 10-12mm if you are buying loose pearls)
Color: White, cream, golden
Overtones: silver, green, blue, rose (silver is common, rose not much, if there is no overtone.. it's ivory, which is most common)

Tahitian pearls
Size: 8mm up (Most available at 10-12mm if you are buying loose pearls)
Color, Usually different shades of gray
Overtones: Peacock, Silver, Aubergine (a lot are those steel gray types)
Luster: Satiny, can be metallic if in peacock

Akoya pearls
Size: 6mm-8mm is most usual
Color: White, cream, dyed golden and black
Overtones: silver, rose
Luster: Sharp

Freshwater pearls
Size: 2mm up (most commonly available are 4-10mm)
Color: White, lavender, peach, dyed black, cream
Overtones: silver, rose, green, cream-rose, rainbow
Luster: If it's silver, it can be sharp.. esp. for peaches and lavenders. Whites have ivory or rose or cream-rose.

Tahitian vs. Dyed FWPs
- dyed fwps usually have dye marks and most surface are not smooth (as a lot of low quality pearls are dyed black.
- peacock color is prized in tahitians but most are usually steel gray and can be dull, while the dyed black fwps have strong peocock colors, some tend to go bronze.

South Sea vs. FWPs
- Look at the drillhole for signs of a nucleus.
- South seas are usually round, a high button, baroque, and oval. A big oblong strand of pearls and most likely fwps as there's not much south sea of this shape but lots in fwps. A baroque with a flat side is most likely to occur in fwps, but not much in south seas.
- A very low button pearl is most likely fwp.
- A bit of a tail (not fireball, but like the tip of a vase or bottle) occurs in South Seas and Tahitians, sometime with a bit of discoloration. Haven't seen this tail in fwps.
- Dull spots are common in fwps, and since there are very few big fwps (11mm up), most have dull spots. Dull spots are not as common in South Seas. South seas usually have a luster (or the lack of it) that is evenly distributed.
- Orient seldom occurs in South seas but more possibly in fwps (orient is South Seas are priced highly).

Akoyas vs. FWPs
- Look at the drillhole for signs of a nucleus.
- Look for blinking in Akoyas when you rotate the strand. A high quality strand available commercially will have one or two blinking pearls.
- Akoyas luster is sharp, and orient seldom occurs in akoyas. Fwps have a glow or deep luster.
- Akoyas usually have bumps while fwps usually have pits.

[pattye]

Hi Michael,

I hate to be the first one to say it, but having non pearl experts try to buy high-end pearls for you sounds like very risky business. Especially since you (they) are buying small lots and may not know about negotiating. I am concerned that you and your friends may seem easy prey for unscrupulous sellers. I would venture to say that the folk you and your friends come in contact with will know the value of the pearls they are selling and maximize their own profit at your expense.

If I were you, I would look into having a "Trunk Show" of Goldens, brought in on "memo" to see how they sell. I could be wrong, but some women that love white and platinum blue SS and Tahitians wouldn't want a strand of Goldens; they don't think they look good in that color (yellow). Or maybe you are just thinking of offering pendants or earrings???

Just my opinion,

Pattye
so many pearls, so little time

[pattye]

Also meant to thank you Perlas, for your very interesting analysis and comments.

In finished fwp jewelry I have also seen other dyed colors--metallic bronze greens, browns to champagne,and greys.

Pattye
so many pearls, so little time