I just bought a few spools in ecru, white and lilac. No idea if those are Gudebrod, I'll have to wait until they get to me.
And it's about time to thank you all for the huge amount of knowledge that I've found here on P-G, as well as for the impetus to knot. When Eli and I visited Pearl Paradise in 2007, Jeremy forced me to accept some untreated baroque Akoya. I had no idea then that one day I will be able to use them. Thank you Jeremy!
And on this happy note..... Jeremy, any left-overs like some time ago? Now I could use them !!!
Likely this silk thread will not be Gudebrod, unless it is the last of their stock, as the news articles say the bank foreclosed on this company the end of August 2010. Do let us know how the thread works for you, and what brand it is.
Ditto your remarks Nora,
And it's about time to thank you all for the huge amount of knowledge that I've found here on P-G, as well as for the impetus to knot.
Silly me. I was in a hurry and bought a spool of Gutermann polyester (obviously for sewing ). It was too thin for knotting. I didn't even bother returning it.
Vintagesuzanne on eBay has some Gudebrod spools of various colors and black in sizes D through FFF.
I found some pink in size F to reknot my Cortez strand at local store http://www.bigstoneinc.com/Gudebrod-...ols-c1935.html . Give them a call if you must have Gudebrod. Closed on weekends. They still have some Gudebrod spools in the shop when I was there a month ago. Spool price online is $8 (more expensive than Bellafindings' price ). Spool price in the store is $9.
The Gutermann that works for knotting is on the same size spool, but in the heavy duty section, and has fewer colors than the regular sewing thread. I have used it satisfactorily when I couldn't get the right color in silk.
I am just getting started knotting and have the sinking feeling that I've been doing this all wrong I've started with powerpro but got the 6lb (should have read all these threads from front to back and top to bottom before I started buying things!) line instead of the 20lb . Now most of the videos I have watched the demonstrator is using one thread that doubles back through the last three pearls, but the entire center part of the necklace is on one strand. Is that the way it's meant to be or is the line meant to go through doubled which would then quadruple on the three end pearls?? I'm sure this is explained in detail somewhere in the forums but I must have missed it! duh
And, when using the wire to string..do you knot that as well? I have done so but wasnt sure if I was actually weakening the line by so doing. (I have only done this with the fine 49strand .013 wire and then hidden the knots under a bead)
This would be so much easier if I could watch someone do this lol !
Thanks, and thanks for taking the time to post so much great information for us beginners!!
My firm and myself have been stringing for over 50 year. I began when I flunked out of college in 62, (not 1862). I spent 1963 in Japan graduated and continued the company started buy my mother.
Genuine pearls (natural pearls belong on silk. You wouldn't set a diamond with brass why would you string natural pearls with wire. Silk weights for natural are "C"
some times you can find "B". It was noted in a past issue of Sewing the real characteristics of the different types of silk. Japanese silk has longer fibers and is truly "the best" . Their superior silk worms make superior silk. We use Tyre brand. Our use of "c" us very sporadic but we have stored in a closed drawer so there is little deterioration from sunlight and light. If you can't find silk fine enough you can back twist and remove one thread. We only tie off one end and sometimes you cane remove another thread at the second last pearl and come back and tie off. IF YOU TIE OFF AND GLUE DOWN ENDS DONT USE SUPER GLUE.
Cultured pearl holes are lots larger .8mm usually and "D" or "E" silk works fine.
We string with out any tools. Just clean hands and nails. Fake nails can be a problem.
Most synthetic thread is traded and does not Knot well. When worn it is crooked or wavy. A manufacture makes a synthetic thread , the name of which eludes me at this point, (strength ) it is pretty good to use with silk but does not know as easily.
There is a kevlar thread which is as strong as wire but unlike silk is nearly impossible to cut with a sizzors especially the cheap ones available to the pearl industry.
Beadlon and other covered steel products are suitable for long necklaces and the ends are secured with a number of methods.
Sizzors are another subject. Most cheap ones scratch the sides of the pearls.
I think crimping cultured pearls or natural pearls cheapens the product. But how much cheaper can it make a $3 necklace.
Would it be possible to put up some photos of your workroom and of some necklaces? You represent a fine old tradition and we would love to immortalize more of your work over here on this educational forum!