Wow, I thought this was going to be a simple explanation. But I have gleened these ideas: gimp does protect the silk thread and the back-through-the-last-pearl tie-off probably adds protection if the pearls have big enough drill holes. But there are other ways. All this tells me what I suspected: my pearls were badly restrung. I got the worst of all possible methods: graduated natural pearls with the very small ones at the end and the stringer still tried to go back through them. The knots look awful and I'm worried about the little end pearls cracking. Even so, no gimp/french wire was used, stark white thread was used on light golden pearls ....
It was a rotten job from the best and oldest jeweler in town, which isn't a big city but isn't a small town either. All of which makes me want to learn to do this myself. What if I were to add cultured pearls or FW pearls (or gold beads or something) right by the clasp and tie-off behind them rather than my little naturals?
Oh, one more thing. When I started this thread, I mentioned how some of my very old necklaces used gimp/french wire but instead of leaving the wire showing, thread was wound over the gimp. I've noticed that newer french wire is much finer, so maybe this isn't necessary anymore. Or this yet another technique?

[Pearls_by_Angela_Carol]

Taylor,

What you might consider is obtaining your own supplies and asking the stringer if they will restring your pearls to your specifications. You should be able to get silk cord anywhere from .35mm to .90mm (whatever size would be appropriate for the size of the drill holes you have in your pearls). You can also find it in a variety of colors so that you can match your pearls rather than using stark white. And you can find it in smaller lengths such as 6.5 feet rather than buying an entire spool.

Actually adding a gold bead as the last bead in the strand is not a bad idea. My personal preference would be to add a gold bead at the end rather than mix cultured pearls with naturals. This would also give you the option of using the French Wire method since the holes in 14K beads tend to be larger than what you would find in your natural pearls.

[Pearls_by_Angela_Carol]

Jerin,

This is actually another thread here that talked about stringing in general. You should find a lot of good information there.

Stringing Pearls

Stephen,
thanks, I have read all about this. Still there is very little mentioning of bead tips or French Wire and I would like to get mor specifics so I know just what I need to restring my pearl necklaces.

Taylor
In answer to one of your points about the "Gimp" being wrapped in a thread - I understand this to be a really old concept that is rarely seen nowdays - it was done by some threaders for aesthetic reasons. I don't believe it has any structural advantages.

On "Gimp"
Yes theres different qualities types styles and materials. ranging from flashplated base metal (brass or nickel) through to "Karat\Carat" assayed precious metal wire (Silver - Gold - and Gold over silver). Finding a supplier might not be the easiest task - cant help much as I bought big years ago and haven't been tempted with a "Better" product since.

Classic set
A "classic set" would be strung using a natural fibre - knotted between each pearl (Visible knots or "safety knots" which are a hidden knotting)
Clam tips - Crimps - tubes - wires - and assorted craft items have no place when dealing with quality pearls.

Theres a growing trend of "crafters" taking their wirework processes and applying it to pearls without any appreciation of what the long term effects would be.

The process and materials has nothing to do with "cost" - there is no relationship in this instance between "Component Cost & Job Quality" - their is however a world of difference in the appropriateness of approach.

Natural Pearls

I disagree with respect on the comment about natural pearl strands using beadcaps and clamshells - in over 25+ years in the trade, and specialising in high grade pearls, I do not recall seeing a single strand done that way. And I havent had to resort to sacrilege in order to double the thread back through in finishing off. (But there is a secret technique in that I made my own needles for these jobs - and No, bribes wont get that secret past these lips) I will admit they where the stringing version of the "Olympic marathon" at the time - lots of hard work and careful planning.

Originally Posted by jerin

Stephen,
thanks, I have read all about this. Still there is very little mentioning of bead tips or French Wire and I would like to get mor specifics so I know just what I need to restring my pearl necklaces.

Most beaders I know(save for some here on PG) including me do not use the fancier stuff for me it IS due to cost but I do comission pieces and people bring me the supplies they want used.. so I cater to them make suggestions but it is up to them to take it or not..

but for the re-enacting peole are really happy to just have real pearls most think they know quality but do not! but I am a beader not a jeweler and say as much. However I do make a point on trying to learn the differences!

there are several books out there about restringing.. that will tell you in detail how to do it (some posted on the other thread I know becasue I posted the name of one! ther are websites about as well. like the About .com that has instructions with pictures for stringing tht are easy to follow.... Just to let you know you will need to practice to get the technique toyour specs. one you "master it" it is wasy but it does take practice to get there!

Hope this helps

Ash

Hi Bernadette,
Yes, the 2 strands that had string wound over the french wire were both really old. I wish I'd taken pictures but I only discovered the french wire under the winding of thread after I'd taken the necklace apart. I thought it might be done because the wire was much larger and courser than the wire I see on new things, some of which is so fine it takes good eyes or a loupe to even tell it's wire.
I've found both sterling silver and gold plate but no solid gold french wire in internet stores. Does anyone know where 14k french wire can be obtained? Since it needs to be replaced each time the strand is re-strung plate or ss may be okay. It won't have time to rub off.

All,
I know there are many books available with general directions on stringing and knotting but I do appreciate the opinions expressed here, especially since often those opinions represent a unique style or function. Maybe we need to start another thread devoted to particular aspects of stringing. Topics I'd like to see discussed concern thread size to hole size, mixing beads with different hole sizes, colored thread, mixing gem quality pearls with other beads, special techniques for odd shaped beads....

[Caitlin]

thread size to hole size, mixing beads with different hole sizes, colored thread, mixing gem quality pearls with other beads, special techniques for odd shaped beads....

Hi Taylor
That sounds like enough topics for a whole separate Forum section for the stringing of pearls/beads with its own sub-topics.

All beaders (lowly and otherwise)
Do you think there would be enough interest to expand the bead section to cover all the beading topics you mentioned that cross over to beading with pearls----and more?

Is there any good beading forum on the net?

[Caitlin]

Hi all
I like the shaved silk and gum arabic technique to make a "needle". Henrietta immortalized it in her classic book, which title slips my mind at the moment, but it is posted here somewhere... I like to use a double thread though, and getting both ends shaved and glued together to make one needle is at least an intermediate technique, but one that all lowly beaders could master. Did you know Gum arabic was a trick ballet dancers use to re-stiffen up the boxes of our sweat-softened toe shoes to make them last one more class?

In my post on using 2 threads because it is a great technique for controlling the knot, I did not go into starting and finishing the strands, or various kinds of needles. That is a subject I will take up in the near future unless someone wants to beat me to it.

I recognize the authority with which Bernadette writes and I am glad she posts here to give a professional pearl stringer's opinon. Bernadette is wise to remind us that fine quality pearls deserve natural threads.

Theres a growing trend of "crafters" taking their wirework processes and applying it to pearls without any appreciation of what the long term effects would be.

I would like to hear an elaboration on above statement. what wold it do to what kind of pearls?
I shamelessly use softflex on cheap, commercial quality pearls. I also use it when I am designing and have not decided on a final pattern. Even though knotting is fast, I don't like to take them apart when knotted, just to change the style a little.

Some of my natural pearls from Bahrain have holes that indicate they may have been threaded with wire at one time. I believe it is called Portuguese style? (ZESPA) That kind of hole is also evidence supporting the age of those pearls at 200 years give or take. So the wire stringing obviously did not affect the longevity of a natural pearl. I would imagine it would wreck the nacre around the drill hole of an akoya PPB though!

This thread got me thinking about the current sources of "Gimp" -sooooo I did some research the last couple of days.

Now I didnt have much success on finding 14K (or14ct depending on your pref) - BUT - I did locate some information on a Spanish manufacturer that produces fine gold wires (as in quality not size) and amongst his products that he will make "On demand" is 3 sizes of Gimp

So - if your prepared to buy a minimum of 500Grams and fork out approximately $1600 Australian then it will be made for you.

Alternately - the British still make high quality gimp from what is called "Admiralty standard" wire - effectively somewhat similar to rolled gold\goldfilled material in that it starts with a bar of White metal (Typically silver) with a layer of gold applied that is calculated to produce an effective assay value of 2% gold - this is then repeatedly drawn through smaller and smaller dies until the final diameter is reached - and then wound into the final product.

Hi!

There must be something out there that could be used as spacers between pearls and gems and gold. Perhaps a small clear rubber washer or rubber bead of some sort.

Karen

There is - but its a tightly kept secret amongst the innermost sanctum of the guild of stringers - its called - "a knot"

Okay so thats the humerous answer.

On the serious side I have seen silicon rubber spacers on high end south sea strands. Where they come from I dont know - it wasnt something that really floated my boat as I use the secret "stringers knot".

Originally Posted by Bernadette

There is - but its a tightly kept secret amongst the innermost sanctum of the guild of stringers - its called - "a knot"

Okay so thats the humerous answer.

On the serious side I have seen silicon rubber spacers on high end south sea strands. Where they come from I dont know - it wasnt something that really floated my boat as I use the secret "stringers knot".

I have heard of knots before but I can't find much info. about them.

[knotty panda]

Beadalon carries "bead bumpers" or you can use Delica seed beads to simulate knotting.

[knotty panda]

Originally Posted by jewel457

Further more, I have yet to come across French Wire in 14k or SS. This wire is most often offered as plated base metal. Put that with a 14k or whatever precious metal and we are cheater our customers.

Fire Mountain carries SS french wire in varying widths and Vermeil french wire (Sterling bonded with a high karet gold). I have used both for many years and have found it to be extremely reliable. It does not breakdown as plated french wire does. I have not been able to find 14kt. french wire and as far as I can tell, and my finding resources have verified, 14 kt. french wire is not used in the industry. But just because I can't find it, does not mean it isn't being manufactured somewhere in the world. Please continue to search as will I.