• Grading Pearls

    Pearl Grading Defined
    Pearl Grading is the practice of assigning degrees of quality to a pearl or a piece of pearl jewelry based of the quality attributes designated by industry best practices and authority groups such as GIA and EGL.

    There Is No Industry-Wide Standard Pearl Grading System - Yet
    As with any other item that can appear in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, colors and conditions, a standardized system of grading must be used when purchasing or selling pearls. Only in this way can the pearl be described according to mutually agreed-upon and understood terms, so that both buyer and seller can determine a fair price. Unfortunately, the pearl industry as a whole has not adopted a universally used standard grading system. Instead, the specific grading system often used, depends upon the specific jeweler or pearl distributor. Eventually a standard system will come into the market - most likely developed by the Gemological Institute of America. Until that time, those in the industry must rely on commonly accepted grading systems derived from the quality grading characteristics of pearls.

    There Are Two Major Pearl Grading Systems But Buyer Beware
    Two major grading systems are in fairly widespread use: the AAA-A system and the A-D system (also called the Tahitian system). These are the most accepted systems, and considered standard by nearly all reputable pearl dealers, both retail and wholesale. But even these systems can become misleading if a seller uses terms from the grading system, (such as "AAA") but uses them to describe a different quality pearl than that which the system is generally understood to be describing. Or a seller could use a term not in the grading system (such as "AAAA") to make it appear that the pearl is beyond even the highest standard quality -- when in reality, that seller's "AAAA" pearls are actually equivalent to the more-common "AAA" grade, and his "AAA" pearls might only be equivalent to the commonly used "AA." Use of "AAAA" or "AAA+" is considered bad taste, or even dishonest, by most reputable pearl dealers. It is seen as a way to simply charge the customer more without providing a superior product.

    Ask To See The Pearl Grading Descriptions In Writing
    For reasons such as these, it's extremely important when purchasing pearls, to be absolutely certain of the meaning of any descriptive terms used by the seller. If possible, ask to see a written description of each grading term, so that you know exactly what the grade implies. Reputable jewelers will be happy to comply with such a request. Only in this way will you be able to determine if the price the seller is asking is reasonable.

    The AAA-A System
    This system grades pearls on a scale from AAA to A, with AAA being the highest grade. This grading scale is common to freshwater and akoya pearls only, but is accepted by many with South Sea and Tahitian pearls as well:

    • AAA:The highest-quality pearl, virtually flawless. The surface will have a very high luster, and at least 95% of the surface will be free from any type of defect.
    • AA: The surface will have a very high luster, and at least 75% of the surface will be free from any type of defect.
    • A: This is the lowest jewelry-grade pearl, with a lower luster and/or more than 25% of the surface showing defects. In many cases, if the pearl is being mounted into a piece of jewelry, it can be mounted so that the defects are hidden -- thus providing a lovely jewelry piece at a lower price.

    Intermediate Grades And Pearl Grading For Stands
    Some reputable sellers may also use intermediate grades for the pearls - those pearls that do not fall in a category but are between two - such as A+ and AA+. Obviously, these grading categories are quite broad and leave room for interpretation and individual judgment. Also note that in multi-pearl pieces such as strands, necklaces, bracelets, etc., every one of the individual pearls may not absolutely meet the indicated grade level. For example, a strand referred to as "AAA" must have most of its pearls as AAA pearls. However, a few pearls could have slightly lower luster or a tiny bit more surface defects. This is because matching is also a primary consideration in multi-pearl jewelry, sometimes even overriding a very strict grading of each individual pearl.

    The A-D System (or Tahitian System)
    It is important to note that the following grading system can be interchanged with the AAA-A system. For more information please refer to: South Sea Pearl Grading

    This system grades pearls on a scale from A to D, with A being the highest grade. This is the system used in French Polynesia (based on a government standard there) to grade Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls only. It is therefore sometimes referred to as the "Tahitian system." While this system is standard in producing countries, other markets will still utilize AAA-A.

    • A: The highest-quality pearl, with very high luster and only minor imperfections over less than 10% of its surface.
    • B: High or medium luster. Surface may have some visible imperfections, but over no more than 30% of its area.
    • C: Medium luster with surface defects over not more than 60% of the surface area.
    • D: May have many slight defects, but no deep ones, spread over 60% of its surface; or deep defects over no more than 60% of its surface; or a combination of minor and deep defects over no more than 60% of its surface. In this grade of pearl, the luster is irrelevant. Even the most lustrous pearls will be graded D if their surface is blemished to this extent. Pearls below D grade are considered not acceptable for use in jewelry.

    Nacre Is The Final Factor In Grading Pearls
    Both of the grading systems described above focus primarily on the luster and surface quality of the pearl to determine its grade. But keep in mind that other factors also contribute to the quality and final grade of any pearl. One of the most important is the thickness of the nacre, which often determines how durable the pearl will be over time. The thicker the nacre, the stronger and longer-lasting the pearl (provided it is treated well, of course!) For Tahitian pearls, the government of French Polynesia has set a minimum nacre thickness of 0.8 millimeters. Any pearls with nacre of less than that thickness are not allowed to be sold. Keeping in mind that Tahitian pearls tend to be larger than many other pearls (such as akoyas), you can use this rule as a guideline when evaluating your own potential pearl purchases.

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