[Joyful One]

Ok, I did it. I have a freshadama on the way! That pulling of those pages from Pearls Only.com basically answered my questions just as well as this forum.
Thanks for all your responses. I will let you know what I think when the strand comes in.

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi Jeremy,

That is a nice picture of you. I am, however, somewhat puzzled. Why are you only partially U.S. operated and owned. Oh, I get it, Your wife owns and operates 50% of you. Is that it?

Zeide

[jshepherd]

LOL
If that were the case I would have said 20/80 I can see the post needs an edit!

[Satine De La Courcel]

LOL. I go away for the weekend nd miss all the fun...

I am glad the whole Freshdama issue has been cleared up (I hope)
ther will always be people "Lurking" on lists so do not let it bother you Jeremy it is not worth it. You do more for bringing pearl knowledge to the public than just about anyone. And for that my mom wants to "adopt you"... LOL

LOL


ASh

[Caitlin]

Hi Jeremy
I think the next big issue should be a discussion of grading gem quality CFWP.

The big thing is the luster on excellent CFWP cannot be properly described by the akoya scale. Akoyas have mirror, but the bead inside makes it impossible to have the depth of nacre needed for orient and/or water. And that is fine for the akoya market.

BUT the top quality CFWP do have orient, do not need “pinking” or other such enhancements. What they look like can’t be described by the akoya standard. It’s like describing a Neopolitan Mastiff with a Shih Tzu standard.

If they aren’t bleached and dyed white, then there will be shades of white, unlike most akoyas. And, funny thing, there already is a standard that can be used for these pearls- the old fashioned natural pearl standards- like say, Tavernier!

Clearly these are the first cultured pearls that can be judged by ancient standards applied to natural wild grown pearls! This is so major a break through and so few people realize it yet. This is the pearl I was asking for when I first started hanging out here.

Dear Readers! Take note of these Freshadama- this is the beginning of the earthquake in cultured pearls- the ground is shifting out from under the feet of bead-nucleated akoyas. And you heard it here first. Get your Freshadama quality strands before they hit their true market value. And I am not just pitching for Mr. Shepherd, I am telling you this is an investment you can never regret. One you can afford now and one which will cost far more in the future.

[youngster]

Your enthusiasm is contagious Caitlin! It would be very cool to have a freshwater grading scale. Why isn't there one already?

By the way, I just received one of Jeremy's 10-11mm freshadama strands. Holy Cow! It's spectacular! If my digitcal camera was presently working (long unfortunate story involving small children), I would post some photos of it, though I'm sure Jeremy has much better ones from his studio. Though, I personally wish that all the vendors would photograph at least some of their strands on living, breathing human models as it gives a much better sense of proportion and scale.

youngster

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi Youngster,

I second that motion. It would even be more helpful to have the strands shown on both a 5-foot and a 6-foot model. Some vendors manage to recruit models of pixie proportions that are none too helpful for Valkyries like moi.

Zeide

[jshepherd]

Can you imagine the confusion if we were to try to grade per Tavernier? I am sure our French customers would appreciate it, but many others may getting confused with grain and carat approximations!

I do think it is important to note, however, even on the top quality freshwater pearls bleaching is still going to be part of the process. I firmly believe it brings out the beauty of pearls, and without any bleaching the ratios would just be too low from a merchant's standpoint.

[Zeide Erskine]

Hi Jeremy,

The pearls of Tavernier's time were also bleached, albeit only sun bleached. The Chinese pearl factories have already long ago abolished the Clorox-dunking technique in favor of hydrogen peroxide. Actually the results of sunbleaching are better and you do not get significant deproteinization which may later result in undesirable pearl growth which is always going to be lumpy, bumpy, and devaluing. Virtually all modern pearl bleaching treatments result in deproteinization (which is their whole point because the colored conchiolin is causing the pearl to be other than white to begin with). The long tradition of short-cultured pearls has created an expectation that the pearls are going to be worn out and tossed long before the hydrogen bridges in the conchiolin residue can reestablish themselves. If that happens, environmental calcium will start crystallizing on the edges of the conchiolin as it refolds and reaches the pearl surface. The result is pearl growth and a reversion to original color. Nabatee, sindaali, and jiwan are also fine pearl colors. They do not all have to be abiyadh. There is a lot to learn when one wants to bring back the old pearl standards. Anyhow, the freshadamas that I got from you were not deproteinized and thus probably not bleached.

Zeide

[Caitlin]

oops I posted this on the wrong thread....
Hi Jeremy
Well I can not argue the merits of any system, having not studied them- and I definately like sticking to grams etc. but it is clear we need to be able to grade luster and natural colors with more finesse. This is one I would like to see experts weigh in on though!

While it may be that many CFWP will continue to be bleached, I hope not all of them will be- If my untreated strand is any indication, some do not need it.

[jshepherd]

Yes, Caitlin. Those were completely unbleached. They were nice, but I could have made them even nicer.

They do not all have to be abiyadh. There is a lot to learn when one wants to bring back the old pearl standards. Anyhow, the freshadamas that I got from you were not deproteinized and thus probably not bleached.

I hate to tell you this, Zeide, but I believe I sent you one of the 8+ strands - they were all bleached. The only non-bleached freshadama were about 50 strands of the 7-8mm.

Well, I may be crazy, but just got a call from someone on the ground at JCK and I am now heading to the airport. No rest for the weary!

[Satine De La Courcel]

Caitlyn,

I agree there should be a grading system for FWP. It is amazing how just between the sores arround here how litle is really known about pearls! I found that some mid grade chain stires here were selling worse quality that what I use for beading in FWP I was astonished!


Cheers
Ash

[mikehrz]

It would be really interesting to see a detailed side-by-side comparison pic of unbleached freshadama and bleached freshadama, wouldn't it? (hint, hint)

[youngster]

I second that mikehrz! I'd love to see a discussion, along with photographs, of the processing that freshadama go through, though I understand it to be minimal.

[Joyful One]

OH MY GOODNESS (screams with delight!)!!!!!!!!!!! Utterly breathtaking! I have seen a lot of freshwater pearls in the past, but this is truly amazing! I can see my reflection like a mirror and they are just so, I can't explain it.
Thank you all for your inputs!