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when "AAA" isn't the best...

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 03:36 PM
ghostman ghostman is offline
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Hi,

I'm entirely new to shopping for pearls and have luckily found this forum. Quite simply, I didn't know which online retailers were trustworthy. I normally go to http://resellerratings.com to determine a online retailer's trustworthiness, but none of these pearl stores are listed. This forum pretty much fills in that gap (but I'm not blind to the fact that having the store owners as Supermoderators may influence the posts).

In my research, I find "grading" guides here and elsewhere that discuss the AAA-A grading system and how it's not a set standard. But there has been one particular point that I don't full understand; they all mention the use of the frowned-upon AAAA or AAA+ ratings:
"Use of "AAAA" or "AAA+" is considered bad taste, or even dishonesty, by most reputable pearl dealers - simply a way to charge the customer more without providing a superior product."

But how does this practice differ from creating a separate line of pearls which are rated higher than a store's own "AAA" line? Apparently, most of the trusted online retailers offer their own "gem-quality" line as well. When looking at some AAA necklaces, they are "near round, lightly blemished and good luster" while the gem-quality equivalent are "perfectly round, no blemishes and very high luster". So, when I go to one store and see they only offer AAA as their top quality pearls, how would I expect it to compare to the gem-quality line of another store?

I'm sure there's a reasonable answer, but as a new consumer, I find it very confusing.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 03:52 PM
lisamla lisamla is offline
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From what I understand, "gem quality" properties are somewhat seller specific. Some sellers focus on shape others on luster etc. I believe gem quality refers to the best of the AAA category. If you research what makes a pearl "gem quality" according to each seller, you can buy from the seller focusing on which properties you value most in pearls.

I'm sure some of the other members can provide more info.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 03:53 PM
tanakarn1 tanakarn1 is offline
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I think AAA is "best" but not "best of the best".

The "best of the best" are rare. You may need to buy Hanadama for Akoya or "gem-quality" line for freshwater pearls.

Tanakarn
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 05:00 PM
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Pearl_dreams Pearl_dreams is offline
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The top of the line freshwaters are pearls which were not originally drilled for strands but were earring-grade (the best of the AAA). The vendors then drill them for strands.

This results in strands with a higher total quality level than regular AAA strands. Roundness is within 5% of round (look round to the eye) and there are very few if any blemishes (my Freshadama strand has a blemish near a drill hole, which can't be seen at all when the strand is worn.)

As far as posters being influenced by the fact that vendors are moderators, I'm not so sure about that! People do complain and raise issues on the forum when they are dissatisfied. The vendors are aware that can happen and strive all the harder to give excellent service as a result.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 05:09 PM
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Ashley Ashley is offline
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That's exactly right, pearl-dreams. I've spent 8 years in the fine jewelry industry, and from Sapphires to Emeralds, Opals to Pearls, there is an A-AAA standard that applies to colored gemstones, and then there is Gem-Quality, which basically means flawless: Perfect color saturation, perfect cut, perfect cleanliness etc. This even applies to diamonds, where you can get a VVS1-D quality stone for a very high price, but D-Flawless will cost you so much more.

Most often, the Gem Quality is negotiated for at a higher rate, so that needs to be translated onto the customer. Our Elite Quality pearls are based upon roundness- no single pearl should deviate more than .05% from a perfect sphere, and we pay more to make sure that is so.
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:14 PM
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Pearl_dreams Pearl_dreams is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashley View Post
Our Elite Quality pearls are based upon roundness- no single pearl should deviate more than .05% from a perfect sphere, and we pay more to make sure that is so.
Ashley, can you clarify? I realize these pearls are in the top .05% quality of cfw pearls, but are they within 5% of round, or .05%? (.05 = 5%)
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Old 03-11-2008, 05:18 PM
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jerin jerin is offline
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Hi Ghostman,

AAAA or AAA+ is mostly used by Chinese sellers, there IS NO STANDARD but our online sellers here use AAA as the best pearls in a strand.

In Freshwater pears gem quality is very often not available at a jeweller´s shop but our online vendors do have pearls that are even better than AAA and they are the so called "gem-quality-pearls". As Pearl_dreams wrote already, gem quality are loose pearls, normally used for earrings, as those pearls have to be as perfect as possible, since you can take a very good (and close) look and so also would be able to see any imperfections!

When such pearls are used in strands they are called gem-quality and if they also show orient, they are at PP called "Freshadama", at Pure Pearls "Elite" at Kevin´s company they are the "Presidental" if I remember correctly.

Being a member of this forum also includes critisizing our other members (in this case online-vendors) if necessary and I don´t think that we would be/are afraid of doing so but speaking for myself I have not had any reason to do so. It is very nice though being able to be honest in what one thinks or feels - otherwise what would be the point?
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  #8 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 05:26 PM
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Caitlin Caitlin is offline
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Hi Ghostman. Everyone is correct, pearls are graded A-AAA. All pearls come in a spectrum, those those over a certain percent round and a certain percentage of blemishes.

Those at the top end of AAA were previously not strung by the factories and sold on earring cards, 2 by 2. Jeremy went out and bought up all those loose pearls and had them matched, drilled and strung. He was the first online merchant to buy up huge amounts of earring grade and "loose match" them.

Since pearls have more than one quality, it is possible to choose among the loose strung grade for the roundest. Or you can sort for orient, a rare iridescent look on round pearls. (Baroques, circled pearls etc usually have orient- in rounds it is very rare). It would also be possible to sort for least blemishes, though I don't know if anyone does that.

So they are cherrypicked pearls to the max.
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-11-2008, 09:07 PM
Perle Perle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pearl_dreams View Post
As far as posters being influenced by the fact that vendors are moderators, I'm not so sure about that! People do complain and raise issues on the forum when they are dissatisfied. The vendors are aware that can happen and strive all the harder to give excellent service as a result.
Yes, in fact, I considered it a matter of courtesy to discuss issues/problems with the vendors first before bringing them here, but, in a recent thread, Jeremy weighed in on the issue:

One more exotic

(And I did get my photos yesterday! Ha, ha, just kidding! No, really, thanks for the photos, Jeremy!)

Perle
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2008, 04:36 AM
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Caitlin Caitlin is offline
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Quote:
This forum pretty much fills in that gap (but I'm not blind to the fact that having the store owners as Supermoderators may influence the posts).
I wonder how post influence would happen?

I am not a store owner and I am a volunteer- I am not paid by anyone on this forum. I was the only supermoderator who regularly edited threads. Jeremy has also done so on rare occasions ,when acting as Admin, a post I now hold.

To get a sense of how independent we are as posters. Read the PPB thread that is a sticky. I disagreed with almost all the store owners, and still hold the same opinions as I did in that thread. Maybe that is one good reason I am Admin- I say what I think- Even if the purveyors of PPB's -wish I wouldn't, no one has said so.
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-12-2008, 06:14 AM
Gemsveritas Gemsveritas is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostman View Post
Hi,
... (but I'm not blind to the fact that having the store owners as Supermoderators may influence the posts).
Dear Ghostman
I am a big fan of Pearl-Guide - Pearl-Guide has taught me so much about pearls and has ignited a passion for these gems. I have been pleased with a number of purchases from PP and TPO.
But you are quite right with your comment above.

I recently had a post deleted from "Freshadama Questions" simply because I stated that I had returned my Freshadamas because a number had small blemishes, including a few small pits; they did not meet my expectations, and I did not think that they were "too perfect to drill." as specified by PP. They were very pretty, but I expected "WOW".

I made my post for balance. P-G is profuse with raves about Freshadamas, and the unknowing buyer may simply accept a less than a "WOW" strand. I believe that "WOW" strands of Freshadamas exist, that are better than the average AAA strand, but that the quality control could be better. If you get a Freshadama that does not meet your expectations, which should be extremely high if you have been reading P-G, then you have to talk to the vendor to get that "WOW" strand. Other posters of P-G have done this and been pleased. Since I live in Canada, and have to pay extra tax on goods crossing the border, I did not want to have to deal with this. I think that every Freshadama shipped should have that "WOW" factor, as advertised.

When I returned my Freshadamas, I included a note to Jeremy that he had the skills and contacts to develop Freshadama into a "collectible" status, if he added a signatory item (a la the Mikimoto clasp) and maintained a high level of quality. I am sorry that he has implemented the former (with his P charm) but not the latter.

I expect that Admin will also delete this post.

I think that Pearl-Guide is a wonderful promotional tool for pearls and for online pearl vendors, but without balance it lacks integrity.

Last edited by Gemsveritas; 03-12-2008 at 06:20 AM.
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Old 03-12-2008, 06:20 AM
Gemsveritas Gemsveritas is offline
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If Admin would stop deleting my posts and others that have concerns about their Freshadamas, while pretending that she doesn't, I would not have placed the above post.
For example, Admin deleted the worded descriptions. ie - dull spot, small pits, etc. posted by sweetfrocks of blemishes in Freshadamas in posts #13 & 14, link:http://pearl-guide.com/forum/showthr...?t=1366 . There are other examples.

Last edited by Gemsveritas; 03-12-2008 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:31 AM
lisamla lisamla is offline
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This is an interesting conversation. I have been reading PG for the last few months and I have found the information provided very useful.

While it’s true, there are a handful of sellers also participating in the forum and that does possibly limit the negative feedback, there is such an incredible amount of positive feedback that I have to be thankful for that. Any consumer must do their research and purchase when confident in the product they will be receiving. And even then, there is no guarantee – standards are not universal. I suspect return policies are meant to satisfy this.

I believe in the good in people and trust the truth to be told. I don't expect moderators would alter/delete in order to promote/protect a particular seller. Perhaps if posts are altered or deleted an explanation is necessary. I'm not sure how often this happens or if an explanation is possible.

I did read the rules regarding deleting words or posts. There is no list of prohibited words or explanation of what is to be avoided. The rules also state a computer program blocks certain words for everyone. Perhaps an expanded definition of what is prohibited would help.

Gemsveritas, thank you for your post. You are correct when you say, “…without balance it (PG) lacks integrity.”

My comments are not intended to point fingers and I hope they will not be misconstrued. Just my perspective and thoughts.
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:56 AM
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Gemsveritas: Please repost your link. It isn't working for me. Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:47 AM
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Raisondetre Raisondetre is offline
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I personally tend to trust pictures more than words. I may have been lucky, because I have not had a problem with any of my pearls. The only return I've had to made was for a clasp I couldn't manage single handedly (literally), not because there was a problem with the pearls themselves. My freshadama strand did have some minor blemishing, but they definitely exceeded specifications for roundness and surface luster. I think there was a pearl with a pit very close to the drill-hole and a surface scratch somewhere else on the strand that is not noticeable as it was towards the back. I don't fault consumers for wanting a WOW strand, because that is pretty much what I received. There are always risks with shopping sight unseen over the internet. Prior to making the purchase a consumer should be mentally prepared to return the merchandise if it does not meet the expected standard. It's not the rule, rather the exception but there should be allowances made for such an event. I'm not sure why Gemveritas' posts were deleted - Caitlin might be able to shed light on the matter more fully, but I'm sure PP would have rectified the problem for that eventual WOW strand because it sounds like a mistake had been made.

I think there were posts which were deleted because of repetitive spamming. Some disgruntled customer in Europe wouldn't stop hassling PP because he/she didn't receive some pearls over the Christmas period, despite being told previously it would not have made it on time. There was also an unreasonable request for them to mark down the value of the merchandise. That had nothing to do with the pearls themselves.

I have bought extensively from a few of the vendors here, and I have never been disappointed. Consumers should however be aware of the specs of the pearls they are getting. There is a difference between AA, AA+ and AAA, then there are the gem qualities. If I order an AA strand I do not expect AA+. Of course, I wouldn't keep anything I don't like.
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