Pearls in chinese history

[adidaem]

Pearls are prominently featured in any 'historical' drama series over in Asia, so my impression is that Chinese have a long history with pearls. Apart from using them in medicine and cosmetics (literally as 'pearl powder'), you see pearls in most imperial portraits as they form part of the 'official' imperial wear.

Noticed that there haven't been any threads on chinese pearl history so just here to share my amateur knowledge. :o

I'll start with this strand of imperial pearls worn by an emperor. Traditionally the imperial family only uses the best so I guess this strand must have been considered a spectacular one back in its day:

Sold For: $8.7 million
Auctioned on: April 8, 2010

The ceremonial necklace was thought to have been owned by 18th century Qing Emperor Yongzheng (1678-1735)(see portrait that shows the necklace prominently). Based on what I read, it was made of freshwater pearls produced in Northeast China, where the imperial house of Qing originated.

"The main design consisted of 108 large freshwater pearls with 4 round coral fotou (Buddha head) beads flanked by lapis lazuli gemstones placed evenly around the necklace. There are 3 additional long turquoise bead dangles coming from the shoulder down to the front. Another long dangle featuring a large chartreuse quartz cabochon goes to the back. This focal is surrounded by smaller spinel and sapphire cabochons."

http://www.mastoloni.com/assets/images/2010/03/yongzheng-emperor-pearls.jpg

http://static2.businessinsider.com/image/4bbe28c77f8b9a0850830300-400-300/imperial-pearl-court-necklace-hong-kong--87-million.jpg

Sources:
http://www.mastoloni.com/pearls-education/history-of-pearls/chinese-imperial-pearl-necklace-sold-at-8.7-million.html

http://www.businessinsider.com/sothebys-auction-items-2010-4?op=1

[adidaem]

A couple more Qing dynasty imperial portraits and examples.

Dragon robe and empress gown:
http://www.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/upload/002.jpg

http://traditions.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/upload/upfiles/2009-12/02/culturalchinadafc8414a1266b8d8bff.jpg

Crowns:
http://www.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/upload/003.jpg

[adidaem]

But strictly speaking the rulers of the Qing Dynasty are not 'chinese' but an ethic minority the 'Manchu'.

So looking back further in time to the Ming Dynasty that was under ethnic 'Han' chinese rule...

This is probably an imperial portrait as well:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/1/19/Noblewoman5.jpg

Actual crown:
http://ferrebeekeeper.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/4501025737_f261caacd5_b.jpg

http://ferrebeekeeper.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/empress_phoenix_crown.jpg

[Adeline Leigh]

Exquisite post! I loved the photos on the exhibits. Were they yours as well?

[adidaem]

Even further back to the Song Dynasty (960–1279):

http://ferrebeekeeper.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/crown-song-dynasty.jpg

My chinese language ability is limited so I am not able to search chinese websites that surely would have more info. But these websites mention some references to ancient chinese books that recorded pearls:
http://www.karipearls.com/chinese-information-on-pearls.html

That's all! Hope you enjoyed the pics.

[Caitlin]

Yes I did enjoy this thread and it is an extremely worthy idea. Thank you for starting it! China, of course, was the first country to culture pearls- without checking , I think it was around 1,200 bce when they started producing the little Buddha heads from freshwater mussels.

We did feature the top necklace when it went up for sale, but the rest are new to this forum. Great Idea and perhaps others will add to this thread. We do have some speakers of one Chinese language or another on here, so maybe they can add to the research!

[Marianne]

Thank you for posting these wonderful photos. Yes, exquisite is the best descriptor :)

[adidaem]

Thanks for liking this thread. :)

I'll post a few more pics from history that I found interesting.

Cixi is the famous empress dowager during the Qing dynasty... blamed for making many horrible decisions as the regent that lead to the eventual collapse of the dynasty. But she does have fab jewellery as you can see from these pics.

http://www.ibiblio.org/chineseart/contents/peop/img/c01s10i02.jpg

She doesn't just have usual strands... she actually has a cape of pearls:
http://jewelhistory.com/files/2010/07/empress-dowager-cixi-21.jpg

Earrings during the Qing dynasty:
http://www.dpm.org.cn/files/subject/uk/cixi/images/1-09.jpg

[Caitlin]

How would you pronounce Cixi? It is a really neat name...

I also rated this thread 5 star. Hope others rate it too!

[KarinK]

Thnak you so much for sharing! Love it!

- Karin

[pattye]

Fabulous contribution of amazing photos! Thanks so much! The leverback earrings are fascinating! As is the pearl cape~does anyone want to attempt something like this?

[adidaem]

How would you pronounce Cixi? It is a really neat name...

I also rated this thread 5 star. Hope others rate it too!

Thanks for rating the thread 5 star! :)

Cixi can be pronounced as "Tzu-hsi". More info in wiki:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Empress_Dowager_Cixi

She has a fascinating history. Tends to be vilified in drama shows as the power hungry concubine.


Fabulous contribution of amazing photos! Thanks so much! The leverback earrings are fascinating! As is the pearl cape~does anyone want to attempt something like this?

In China pearls are used frequently in hair pins - for elaborate hair styles.

Some examples:
http://arts.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/images/arbigimages/37824193c6fa832d3576dfea8963bcff.jpg

http://arts.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/images/arbigimages/4a1df0ea6fd37380151738f83bc9453e.jpg

http://arts.cultural-china.com/chinaWH/images/arbigimages/30c1933d859baaef6da2b7b2327c567d.jpg

http://hua.umf.maine.edu/China/HistoricBeijing/Forbidden_City/images/17gold_FSC_5286w.jpg

http://hua.umf.maine.edu/China/HistoricBeijing/Forbidden_City/images/17gold_FSC_5292w.jpg

http://hua.umf.maine.edu/China/HistoricBeijing/Forbidden_City/images/17gold_FSC_5293w.jpg

[adidaem]

More examples:

Summer Court Hat for Imperial Concubines:
http://culture.teldap.tw/culture/images/collection/20120807_NPM/royalstyle33.jpg

Gilt Headdress in Kingfisher Feathers with Chinese Character "Double Happiness":
http://culture.teldap.tw/culture/images/collection/20120807_NPM/royalstyle35.jpg

Belt and Gilt Buckle with Floral Design Inlaid with Diamonds:
http://culture.teldap.tw/culture/images/collection/20120807_NPM/royalstyle36.jpg

Gold Headdress Ornament with Water Chestnut Floral Design Inlaid with Diamonds:
http://culture.teldap.tw/culture/images/collection/20120807_NPM/royalstyle38.jpg

[adidaem]

And some of my favs so far, the hat toppers:

http://hua.umf.maine.edu/China/HistoricBeijing/Forbidden_City/images/17gold_FSC_5253bw.jpg

http://www.npm.gov.tw/exhbition/dro0001/pictures/c3main-dx.gif

http://www.npm.gov.tw/exhbition/dro0001/pictures/c3main-cx.gif

http://www.npm.gov.tw/exh96/Dazzling/large/pics/02.jpg

[adidaem]

And finally, more earrings for inspiration perhaps? :)

http://hua.umf.maine.edu/China/HistoricBeijing/Forbidden_City/images/17gold_FSC_5310w.jpg

http://hua.umf.maine.edu/China/HistoricBeijing/Forbidden_City/images/17gold_FSC_5313w.jpg

Even just for decoration, a gold magnolia tree with pearls:
http://www.rtoddking.com/images/chinaspr2006/06052881.jpg

[Amanda]

What amazing photos - thanks!

[Amrita]

What an amazing thread! Thanks for all the photos and the stories, adidaem! :)
Pearls and jade are so deeply entrenched in Chinese history and culture. One can see them in all parts of life here..
I have rated this thread 5 star as well.

[CLICLASP]

Fabulous to see these pearls, some I saw for the first time. Thank you.
I am wondering : can we pick up photos from any site to put them here ? How does it work : permission and quoting ?

[adidaem]

Hi CliClasp, great question and something I wondered about too.

My knowledge of law is not great, but we are using the pics for non-commercial purpose so it does make a difference (I think). Something under the 'fair use' rule? While browsing the older threads the past 2 weeks, I recall someone mentioning that it is ok to post pics, but I have no idea how to find the thread.

Help anyone?

[Ash]

adidaem,

Great Photos! thank you for sharing them. Many are new to me. if you have any website references Would you be able to edit your posts & list them with the Photos?

Cheers
Ash

[adidaem]

Sure Ash, can do that. Will do that this weekend when I have a good block of time.

[Caitlin]

Fair use does NOT include using others' photos to make money off them or to misrepresent other goods.

My opinion, based on seeking out knowledge of fair use on other blogs about such things, is that fair use includes using a photo that makes a point or helps back assertions, for publicity, for review and/or criticism, and suchlike, for which photos enhance understanding of something. It would be like quoting a paragraph from an article for the same kinds of reasons. Of course, it is always best to give the source as a link.

We had a wonderful poster (valeria101) who put up photos of incredible jewelry almost every day, but she quit posting when some people started saying you have to get permission to use photos. This website has lost a phenomenal resource when she quit putting up pictures and I regret it to this day.

And, those ebay listing pix - if we don't copy the photo over here, it is lost forever after 90 days and thus hurts the threads where there are only links, no photos. We have lost some important educational chunks by not putting the photos up over here.

We are an educational site and have no other mission, we do not use photos in any underhanded way, but only for educational purposes. If someone should ever see their picture and want it down, it will be easy to comply and apologize, but I would still ask specific permission to keep it up and argue why.

I can't think of an illegal reason this site would use photos for. However, I am only speaking for myself, here, but that is my opinion and what I do.

[CLICLASP]

I agree that this place is a wonderful library, and that's why I posted so many myself.
But on the process to post photos, I dare say that using photos from others for educational purpose is not enough, as an exemple, Adeline had to ask :
"I loved the photos on the exhibits. Were they yours as well"
after the photos were posted. Would it not be better to post and indicate at the same time where the pictures are from ?
And in such case, tell (if not asking for permission) the site where the photo are taken from that we are willing to share them here ?
I noticed that when we ask for permission, we get a yes nearly 100% times, including ebay, etsy and so on...
Well that's only my opinion and what I do when I need to do so.

[Caitlin]

Of course you can ask permission.

I was just saying I think fair use allows us to use photos for educational purposes or critique purposes as opposed to commercial purposes.

It is always best to include the sources whether you ask permission to or not.

If Valeria101 had asked permission before she posted every photo, she would not have been able to post them as she sees them and several every day. She always gave the sources and I think that is adequate. I don't ask people if I can quote them when I write an article or a review, I just cite the source. I have not talked directly to a lawyer myself, but some of my blogger friends have and this was what they reported.

If someone has a sign on their photo denying permission to reproduce it without permission, I ask for permission. Otherwise, I don't.

[CLICLASP]

Thank you Caitlin, it is good to have this point cleared.

[Ash]

Hi adidaem,

Thanks. I initially asked about the websites, so I could learn something and appease the history buff in me that has been a bit antsy lately :) Jewelery for me is a gateway to learning about other cultures. I for one am really looking forward to learning more!

Cheers
Ash

[pbazar]

Thanks for liking this thread. :)

I'll post a few more pics from history that I found interesting.

Cixi is the famous empress dowager during the Qing dynasty... blamed for making many horrible decisions as the regent that lead to the eventual collapse of the dynasty. But she does have fab jewellery as you can see from these pics.

http://www.ibiblio.org/chineseart/contents/peop/img/c01s10i02.jpg

She doesn't just have usual strands... she actually has a cape of pearls:
http://jewelhistory.com/files/2010/07/empress-dowager-cixi-21.jpg

Earrings during the Qing dynasty:
http://www.dpm.org.cn/files/subject/uk/cixi/images/1-09.jpg


http://www.internetstones.com/image-files/imperial-hong-kong-pearl.jpg

The "Imperial Hong Kong Pearl" aka the "Miracle of the Sea" is an enormous silvery white, baroque pearl with an irregular drop-shape and having dimensions of 26 x 39 mm, and a weight of 25.5 grams, equivalent to 127.5 carats or 510.0 grains. It is one of the largest nacreous pearls discovered in the world, believed to have originated in a saltwater oyster species, known as Pinctada maxima, common in the South Seas between Southern China and Northern Australia.

The pearl formerly owned by The Dowager Empress of Tzu - Hsi (Cixi) of the Chiang Dynasty from 1875 to 1908 wore it on a slender chain around her neck as a good luck amulet, the pearl is nearly the size of a small egg and is richly encrusted with platinum filigree work.

The "Imperial Hong Kong Pearl" reached Hong Kong in the 1940s and was purchased by Imperial Pearl. Today, the enormous natural baroque pearl remains one of the Imperial Treasures
http://www.imperialpearl.com/Imperial/Treasures/index.asp

If this interests you you should read Empress Orchid and The Last Empress by Anchee Min

[Caitlin]

And thank you so much for posting that picture here! that is a totally incredible pearl. What a treasure for Imperial to own!

[Ash]

WOW!! What a wonderful pearl for your collection! Thank you for sharing the Photos & History! Ohhh I really Like the earrings & the Pearl netted "Collar".

Can one person continually fall in love with a gemstone over & Over?? Cause well I think I am.


Cheers
Ash

[Amrita]

Love those Qing Dynasty earrings! Thanks for posting such great pictures here! :)

[pattye]

I keep going back to the earrings also!

[adidaem]

Only empresses get to wear the 3-pearl type of earrings. For your reading pleasure: http://arts.cultural-china.com/en/41Arts2520.html

Too bad the Chinese museums have not caught up with the western ones in terms of souvenirs/store selection. The simple earring designs would be great in the museum shop.

Very typically complicated 'chinese' styles in the Met Shop as usual: http://store.metmuseum.org/necklaces/chinese-layered-blossom-necklace/invt/80009851/

[adidaem]

Sources of the pics - part 1:

I like this site for the fairly reliable info about Cixi and the emperors, you can explore the other pics and sections if you are interested:
http://www.dpm.org.cn/files/subject/uk/cixi/1.html#no1 (link to the Cixi site)

Gorgeous pics (Cartier stuff are to die for too):
http://www.npm.edu.tw/exh101/royalstyle/eng/selections.html

This site was quite hard to navigate, no particular section that I could pinpoint. I mostly picked up the pics from Google image search:
http://hua.umf.maine.edu/China/HistoricBeijing/Forbidden_City/pages/250_ForbiddenCity.html

[adidaem]

Sources Part 2:

Good info on this site: http://www.cultural-china.com

A portrait via Wikipedia: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/1/19/Noblewoman5.jpg

Crown pics: http://ferrebeekeeper.wordpress.com/2011/09/01/phoenix-crowns/

Cixi pics were all over the place - was really an image search. Will rather delete than to search all over so if the mods are not comfortable pls go ahead and delete.

One last gem - highly recommend that you click to see this amazing snuff bottle made from a large baroque pearl. Good deal of info for history lovers too, e.g. that pearl necklace can only be worn by the emperor.
http://www.bonhams.com/auctions/18456/lot/138/

[Amrita]

Thanks for all your hard work putting up the source websites, adidaem! :) That must have been a tedious job. Appreciated.

[Ash]

adidaem,

Thank you so much for all your hard work * posting the information & websites! they are wonderful! Goodness me. a pearl snuff bottle! Wonder if it would go with my MOP salt & pepper shakers... hmmm ;)

Again I thank you! Wonderful stuff! Now off to read, play & learn more. :)

[cookierookie]

The hat toppers look amazing, they look like 24K pure gold.