View Full Version : Please recommend pearl glue
09-07-2005, 01:30 AM
Hello fellow pearl aficionados!
I'm new to this forum and would like to ask the experts to make a recommendation. I have a pearl pendant and also an earring where the pearl has come loose from the gold. Both pearls have a small hole drilled in them and the pendant bail and the earring stud have a corresponding gold pin that inserts into that hole in the pearl. They are both Tahitian pearls, the carved one in the pendant is around 11mm, and the earring is around 13mm.
Instead of taking them to a jeweler, I feel that I can easily fix this myself if only I had the right glue. Is there a particular kind of glue that I should use, and where might I be able to find it? A specific brand or type would be helpful. Or else is this something best left to the experts? I don't mind paying the jeweler for her services, but I don't like to leave them at the store for any length of time, since I wear my pearls everyday.
Thank you in advance for your help. I enjoy reading all the posts on this pearl forum.
09-07-2005, 02:15 AM
Most jewelers will use a 2-part epoxy to reattach a pearl to nearly any setting. I suggest, however, a newer single tube epoxy called VIGOR. Most beading stores will probably carry it. It sets in seconds - like super glue. But unlike super glue it is safe on pearls. It only costs about $1.50 per tube.
A jeweler may be able to do this for you as well, but as this is such a simple job I cannot imagine they would charge you, or charge you more than just a few dollars.
09-07-2005, 09:53 PM
Thank you for the information. That was a quick reply!
You're correct, the cost should be very reasonable for a jeweler to do the gluing. I would expect that if I went back to the store where they were purchased, there would be no charge. Unfortunately, it is too far away to be convenient.
The issue is that most stores require that you leave a piece with them for several days to several weeks, even for a simple repair. If I do this myself at home, I can wear it later that same day (depending, of course, on how long the glue manufacturer recommends allowing it to set.)
11-08-2005, 07:33 PM
I use the same glue...VIGOR. You can buy it here:
http://www.ottofrei.com/store/product.php?productid=3471 for only $2.20.
11-09-2005, 02:33 PM
Jeremy, I can not find a single tube epoxy glue that's called VIGOR.
Amanda, the one you mentioned is still a cyranoacrylate I think.
Me too I'm trying out different kinds of glue and I'm afraid the cyranoacrylate breaks once in a while if it falls.
Lately I tryed E 6000, a one tube epoxy glue, with so far good results. It just takes a little longer to dry.
Is this glue known by any of you and do you have any experience with it?
11-09-2005, 06:32 PM
Try Bella's Findings in Los Angeles on Hill Street. They have 5-packs of vigor for about $10. They also carry 'Attack', the best combination.
11-16-2005, 04:37 PM
thank you Jeremy, I just was wondering if I could buy it online somewhere, since LA is a bit far for me.
11-16-2005, 06:43 PM
Here you go: http://shorinternational.com/adhesive.htm
They have it all!
11-17-2005, 02:30 PM
Thank you Amanda, I'll study that site.
04-05-2009, 08:19 AM
I'm glue hunting as I prepare to make my first pair of studs...
Jeremy and PurePearls: Is VIGOR still your adhesive of choice?
Is there a comparably effective 2 part epoxy anyone can recommend, or are all types of 2 part roughly equivalent?
I'll deal with something that has the frightfully runny texture of superglue if it's the best... otherwise, 2 part epoxy is really well behaved and I'm a fan of its durability. Since VIGOR is a well-regarded brand here, I'd probably try Vigor Jeweler's Epoxy first.
I'm trying my balance my impulse to take PGers advice automatically with the knowledge that every time I touch superglue, I ruin something. :p
04-05-2009, 09:21 AM
Its hard to beat good old fashioned Araldite (just dont use the 3 minute version - its just too soft at body temperatures)
The key to success with gluing - is to be scrupulously clean. No remant of old glue should remain. both pieces to be glued should be clean and dry etc etc.
There are "jewellers" versions which are more "clear" -cant think of a brand name offhand but any jewellers supply should have their own favourite onhand.
Expoxies are preferred as they stay flexible on setting - and act as their own kind of "shock absorber" on the joint - harder glues like (SOME but not all) cyanoacyrlates can be very strong in tension - but brittle when the stress is in shear.
04-05-2009, 09:28 AM
I'll add that both surfaces should be smooth and touching - smooth seems counter intuitive but gluing is creating a vacuum - the two surfaces suck together and so the smoother and closer in contact they are, the better the adhesion.
It is no good having a bad contact surface and just dolloping on huge amounts of glue.
I use the slowest setting speed epoxy I can find. The only danger then when making cuff links or the like is that the pearl slowly slides off the finding overnight....
04-06-2009, 06:02 PM
These replies didn't show up with my other new posts, for some reason. Very excited to see all this info.
As always, many thanks for the expert guidance. I'll be too busy to attempt any pearlcraft until next week, so keep it coming! :)
Wendy, I sometimes use a soldering "third hand (httphttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000UAU442/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=228013&s=hi)" to hold things at a certain angle as they dry. Sometimes I have to pad the 'gator clips a bit to prevent damage. Do you think securing your findings pearl-up as they dried would be helpful? Would it cause the glue to seep out?
04-06-2009, 08:16 PM
It tends to be a bit of a mass production - probably a dozen pairs at a time. If I take the time to get them level to start with there are no problems. It happened once. I learned from it
One of the advantages of making the simple rings myself is that I built in a central spike so no slipping possible. ;-)
07-24-2010, 09:12 PM
Oh my GOSH I am mortified!!! I just worked with a young man placing some pretty Akoya pearls onto 14K gold posts. I had had to buy some new epoxy and while I normally always...for the past TEN YEARS ... have used 24 hour epoxy, they didn't have it this time. So I went with one that took a few hours to cure.
And it FAIlED! The pearl popped off as soon as his fiance went to put them on...!!! :eek::eek::eek:
I've never had a setting fail and I'm so embarrassed! Does anyone know if VIGOR is carried at Hobby Lobby?
07-25-2010, 06:17 AM
Nightmare! But I am suspecting that it isn't the time factor which is at fault here with the glue. either the glue itself is duff (a chemical reason)(bad product/bad batch/bad mix of the two elements by you)
Or there was some reason why the glue did not hold (a mechanical reason).(bad fit, grease, that sort of thing)
I realise I am being basic here, but I have switched to a five minute epoxy simply because it comes in a nifty double hypo packaging which takes all the anguish out of the mix.
07-25-2010, 01:13 PM
What about G-S Hypo Cement. Has anybody used it for fixing pearls?
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07-28-2010, 04:31 PM
I agree with Bernadette and Perlescence.
I have been trained by a glueing expert from aerospace industry (yes some satellites are glued, did you know that :cool:),
so he said : " it is not the glue that glues, it is the surface preparation" :
1 - gently rub both surfaces with appropriate grad of sand paper
2 - thouroughly clean both surfaces
3 - prepare small quantities of glue
4 - stir well if needed
5 - put few drops all over parts to be glued
6 - gently turn pieces together to spread a regular thickness of glue all over inside pieces
7 - clean all extra glue with 90° alcohool
8 - watch carefully pieces the next 10 minutes to avoid further extra glue to run where it should not
9 - keep you preparation of glue 24 hours to check it duly hardens.
Now gold is specially hard to glue because of the atomic structure, so even more attention must be given to preparation.
So, that 's my contribution ;)
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