How to Make a Pearl Necklace.

[Caitlin]

Supplies and prep.
Thread: silk.
Gudebrod silk thread. size D (small), E (best for most pearls), or F (for big beads), on a card or spool in a color to match your strand.
Here is an example of a site that sells silk threads on a card without a needle, so the small timer can have many colors without buying big spools. http://www.beadshop.com/StringingMaterials-SilkGudebrod.aspx

To test your thread size:

Run a threaded needle through a sample pearl or bead, and return the thread back through the same hole it came out of. If the needle won’t go through both ways, go to a smaller size thread.
String one pearl on the thread. Make a trial overhand knot, pull it tight. Try sliding the pearl over the knot. If it goes over the knot, you need a larger size thread.Needle.
I prefer the twisted wire needles and I buy them in the smallest size.
Here is a good source for twisted wire needles or any other kind you may want:
http://search.store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/nsearch?query=needles&x=9&y=10&vwcatalog=artbeads

Clasp
There are so many of these on over the net, I hesitate to recommend one for you. Whatever you pick, make sure it stays shut. A classic fish hook will always work for starts.
This page is good for sterling. http://www.artbeads.com/silver-components-clasps.html
This one for gold and gold filled: http://www.artbeads.com/gold-clasps.html

French wire, bullion, or gimp: 3 names for the same product. Buy in same color as clasp:
http://www.artbeads.com/french-wire.html

Beeswax. http://www.artbeads.com/wax-01.html

Pearl.
See bead chart for how many pearls of what size needed to make what length necklace with and without knots.:
http://www.pmegio.com/bead.php .

Some cute little sewing scissors.

A bead clamp.

Pre-stretch your silk thread by pulling on it. Run some beeswax down the thread from end to end. Pull before the beeswax, and after.

For a knotted strand 16-20” I use about a 5ft stretch, doubled with a knot (or a beadclamp) at the end. It is more thread than necessary, but not much.

A nice beginning for your necklace:

String your first three pearls on in reverse order.
Thread gimp and one end of clasp down and push down to the pearls. Clasp should be over the gimp.
Pass needle back through same hole it came out of.
Gently pull the gimp into a loop against the first pearl.
Make an overhand knot around the thread and pull tight against the first pearl. Separate the two strands and pull to tighten the knot in place.
Pass needle through second and third pearls with a knot after each one.

Cut off any extra thread and/or the knot from the end of the thread.

String on the rest of your pearls.

The fastest and easiest method of knotting is shown in this video, which you have to download to your computer. It will run on any of the players:
http://www.lots-of-pearls.com/video/parelsknopen.wmv
Sit in front of this video on repeat and copy the moves.



End your strand the same way as you started it.
Do not knot last three pearls.
Put gimp and other end of clasp on thread and run needle back through the first pearl, be sure you pull it tight, and knot, second pearl and knot third pearl and knot then through the fourth pearl and cut of excess.


A lot of people only do one pearl where I do three, but my method does not require glue.

For Endless Loops:
Be sure to have enough thread, maybe 3-4 yards (It will be 1 1/2- 2 yards long when doubled.) for each 36" of beads.
Leave the first three pearls unknotted.
String and knot all other pearls.
Pass needle though one unknotted bead, knot, second, knot, third,knot, cut off excess.

[pernula]

This is great! Thank you for writing this up, Caitlin! I am going to book mark this and try it one day.

I assume the same method can be used for bracelet? I like toggle clasp for bracelet. Do you think it is safe for pearls?

pernula

[Caitlin]

Hi Pernula
Yes this works great for bracelets.

Toggle clasps are fine for bracelets, but should be sized to no larger than an inch longer the the wrist's circumferance or it could come unhooked.

[Caitlin]

I prefer Dandyline or Power Pro beading thread for bracelets or when using pearls 12mm and over, or when using gemstones that cut silk.

It only comes in black and white.
It does not stretch
It is very hard to cut and will ruin your scissors or wire cutters quickly. Children's Fiskars around $4.99) work fine, but are hard to get into tight places.
I buy a couple of little nippers at a time ofr $2.99 or less- the kind in one piece with extremely sharp points for getting in next to the pearl and cutting off excess thread.

[knotty panda]

Good job, Caitlin! The only thing I would add, maybe you've got it in here but I didn't see it (read too fast). Cut the gimp with side-cutters to prevent fraying and spring for sterling or vermeil gimp, plated tends to break down. Cut about 1/8" for a fish hook clasp, 1/4" should be all you will need for a toggle. Yes, a toggle is perfect for necklaces and bracelets. I like toggles that have a jump ring or two as leaders, it's just easier for me to hook.

[DFrey]

Hi Caitlin,
Great post on stringing. My wife, who is just learning, enjoyed your post, she learned some new things and you also confirmed that she was on the right track with what she was doing. We both love these type of "how to" posts, but I am not the beader, have trouble with my shoe laces some days.

She is finishing a string of keishi pearls with two silver and 24k gold inserts and clasp in the string. Lots of ends to do in this one.

Dfrey

[Caitlin]

Hi DFREY
Thank you. I tought of one more thing I really love and forgot to mention, a bead board. (http://jewelrymaking.about.com/od/beginnerscorner/ss/081505_2.htm) They have grooves for arranging the pearls/beads before you string them. Some now come with a lid, which is handy until you finish the project

If you don't have one, not to worry I also have several trays, just ordinary trays. I put a place mat or towel on each one. I buy extras of the mats too, at the 2nd hand store and use them to cover the top of the try when I am not working on it. One on top, one on bottom.

Actually, I have a bunch of trays picked up from 2nd hand stores, each one stacked with a different unfinished project. :p

When I buy new pearls, I love to lay them all out on a huge tray w/ a towel. Just for fun, I took a picture of my biggest tray loaded with pearls and put it up on "Some of Caitlins pearls" thread in Show us your pearls.

[jerin]

Show us[/I] your pearls.


Caitlin,
I have these ordinary trays as well but when I do a rope for example, I need something with long milled rows. Such rows one can find if shopping in a shop with furniture, You just buy a little "door" of a kitchen cup board with a pattern in it of grooves (here we have Ikea and that means that almost everything can be bought loose, i.e. I don´t have to buy the whole cup board but can look for a door of one that is on sale in a special "bargain room". The come in different sizes, but have rows with the exact same milled size. The pearls rest very secure in these rows and it is very easy to sort them after shape and size. As this little door is made of wood it has its own weight that will stop you from being able to pull it down from the table easy.

Everything lies perfectly still and all You need is a relatively large tableside and than You can start designing and knotting.....:)

Once my needles did not pass, my husband took a type telephone cable that has several very small coppar wires in it, he then peeled of the outer layer that protects the wires and I had perfect "needles" to get through even the smallest of drill holes! It is good to have a handy husband.

He is also the one who came up with the idea of this cup board door as a pearl tray and I have now 3 with different lengths and diameters in the rows.

Hope these suggestions may come in handy for our beading members...:)

[knotty panda]

Hon, it's no secret! You don't even have to do the last 3 pearls. I've done the last 1 and it holds fine. But for me, I have to use silk. Waxed silk holds the knot like iron. Even on Detolon, unfortunately, the thread tails popped out from beneath the pearls after about a week's time, so I'm back to silk on pearls.

Practice like this. Thread a pearl on a double strand of silk. Now, go back through it. The way I do that is, I place the pearl on my index finger and tighten the thread within the pearl which allows the thread to pass through the second time.

Working with flexible needles is different from working with sewing needles. You can prick and prod and poke with sewing needles. With flexible needles, when you feel resistance, you have to back off, readjust, and try again until the needle goes back through the pearl easily. It's very difficult to work with a bent flexible needle.

Even just having it's little head poke through the other side is good enough. And, you have to make sure the needle doesn't prick the silk or you have a big-ol' mess. This will give you the feel for pulling the thread through the second time on a pearl and you'll also know if the pearl is big enough to accommodate the second pass. Forget reaming and all that other stuff.

If you absolutely positively without a doubt have to make the hole bigger, use a round file. A twist or two should do it, but that really is an extraordinary step.

Ok, when you feel comfortable passing the thread through twice and are able to avoid pricking the silk from the first pass, you're ready to do it for real.

Spacing here is the key to a professional job. I thread on my last two pearls, place on the gimp and pull the thread through the last pearl on the strand (you'll have 1 or 2 pearls in between the end and the last pearl you knotted which are waiting to be backnotted), and pull the thread taut to get the gimp in place. Then I use my thumbnail to open a little space between the pearls for the backknot. Pull the thread through as you have practiced, backknot, and do it as many times as you have unknotted pearls. You'll need a long-nose or chain nose to grab the needle as it pokes it's little head out of the pearl to help pull it through.

Try to keep from bending the needle with the pliers. The silk is forgiving. Bend the strand to accommodate a straight needle.

The hardest part for me is pulling the thread through the last knotted pearl so I have a little tail under the pearl. The thread-burner solves that problem, though, so don't even worry about it. I burn the little tail off and it's cauterized.

Real simple!

Just my way, not the only way.

[knotty panda]

When I cut apart that strand of akoyas ... does anyone know about that 'sides Boo? Anyway, yeah, Boo and I cut apart our akoyas. (Trow me unda da bus, Boo! It was MY idea!)

It looks to me like this is what Pearl Paradise does ...

No glue, no wax. Double strand of thread. Thread on the first pearl leaving a tail hidden under the pearl. Put on gimp and come back through the pearl. Knot. And keep on going.

Seems to hold for them okey-fine! You'll have to check with them to see if I missed anything. But it really does look like I do far more unnecessary steps than they do.

[jerin]

Hi Knotty,

thanks for the very informative posts on threading back through the last pearls. When You are talking about using the thread-burner, do you use silkthread? Is it possible to cauterize it without braking it and having to knot the whole necklace again?

Thanks as well for the answers on the post of 100% silk thread. I have visitors the next 2 weeks and therefore not much time to check on the forum....

[Caitlin]

Hi Inge
I lost track of where you were asking about needles
artbeads (http://www.artbeads.com/tools-and-supplies-beading-needles.html) has a lot of them. 25 to the package. That is a link directly to the needles

[GemGeek]

Hon, it's no secret! Real simple!

Just my way, not the only way.

I feel special getting all this information. Too bad I'll be gone most of the weekend or I'd be experimenting.

I'm expecting some neat pinky peach freshwaters from China that I hope to make into two long strands. (Knowing that I'll have to toss at least half of the pearls, I ordered eight strands - such a perfectionist!)

Cheers,
Blaire

[TCallen]

Thank you for the information!
I do have a few questions:

1. Do i iron the silk thread before putting on the beeswax?
2. Should I use beeswax or Thread Heaven?
3. To use the beeswax I just run the length of the silk thread over the bar of wax? on both sides?
4. I am about to restring pearls that are not white, maybe more ecru or ivory in color, and under 6 mm. Should I use white thread or try to match the color of the pearl? (I realize this is a subjective question but i would like opinions on this)...when black pearls are strung, is the the thread black?
5. Lastly, I am stringing an endless loop. I assume to start I just make an initial knot, add 3 unknotted pearls and then knot/pearl the rest. To end I take needle back through first 3 (unknotted pearls) and knot between each, correct? I haven't actually done it yet but I would imagine there will be 1 or 2 little stubby thread ends that will hang off of the initial knot and the last end off knot, how do I get rid of these?

I really appreciate help with this.

[Caitlin]

Hi TCallen

There is no one orthodox way to knot pearls. Don't be afraid to experiment.
1. You pull the thread to try to get the excess stretch out. I am not familiar with ironing it. Try it.
2. I don't know what thread heaven is. Try it. I like beeswax and never looked beyond it.
3. Yes. Cover the thread lightly
4. To me the main point of using silk is to get the color matched as closely as possible. I haven't used silk for my ropes since I discovered power pro, but it only comes in white and moss green which is kind of gray.
5. Make sure the thread and needle will go through the pearls twice before you start knotting. Some people use glue, but I don't. When you knot back three, there is no way, it will come undone. Make the last knot as tight as possible. Clip the thread as close as possible and if you want to, glue it. Or reverse the process, glue, then trim. This is tricky to do neatly. Since I use power pro thread to do ropes, it is relatively easy to melt the tips into the knot with a thread zapper.

[TCallen]

Would you recommend using (or have you used) power pro for pearls?
Does it have the same look as silk?

Thank you again for your time and expertise.

[TCallen]

I think I want to try it your way with power pro...where do i buy this?

[Caitlin]

Hi T
Below is a picture closeup of knots on a 60 5mm strand knotted with 20 lb PowerPro thread which I buy from Suzanne Hye. Here (http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&dfsp=1&frpp=25&from=R10&satitle=Power+Pro&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&sadis=200&fpos=95125&sabfmts=1&saobfmts=insif&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&seller=1&sass=vintagesuzanne&fsop=1%26fsoo%3D1&fgtp=) is the Power Pro page. she has the thread zap too.

PowerPro is the strongest, most fray resistant thread I have ever used. Unlike silk's main problem, it does not stretch. Drawbacks are that it comes in only 2 colors and it is rougher on the hands when knotting. It drapes as well as silk does and unlike silk, you can hang strands made with this thread up on hooks without them stretching. It comes in 6lb, 20lb and 30lb. 30lb is good for pearls 7mm and up, 20lb is better with the 5-6mm range. Just think, 20lb thread doubled is 40 pounds of yank and unlike Cinderella's necklace, these babies won't break with yanking them hard or under normal wear. Unlike silk, this thread is indifferent to water.

Suzanne probably has twisted wire needles too, but you can use any kind of beading needle if it is thin enough to go through the holes.

I also like it better than detulon which has a tendency to kink on me, though maybe that is because I am left-handed and do everything backwards.

[TCallen]

Caitlin,
OK, I think I located the Power Pro and accessories. I practiced the double strand knotting method in the video you recommended, and you're right, I was doing a single strand because I was a total klutz with all the 2 strand methods I tried previously. This method is very easy.

Last Question in order to figure out which diameter of Power Pro to use:
I will use a double strand to restring the endless loop of pearls. When I end by knotting back three pearls, won't I need a diameter of Power Pro that will allow 4 strands to go through the last three pearls?
Power Pro comes in diameters of .005, .006, .009 and .011 inches.
I'm not sure how big the holes in the pearls are, I think the pearls are about 4-5mm. Silk thread with a doubled diameter of .0274 inches (plus the needle) wouldn't fit through the pearl. So i'm thinking either the .006 or .005 size would work?? Does that sound logical?

[Caitlin]

Yes it does sound logical. I did my 5mm with the 20 lb test. That would be the .009. However if the pearls are 4mm and down, the .006 might work better. If you get the thread too small the pearls will slide over the knots, unless you double knot, but if the .009 is too thick, you won't be able to pass it through again.
Since I do a lot of stringing I got each size, then found the vast majority of pearls 5-8mm or so, use the .009.
There is a bit of variation in pearl drill hole sizes. That is why before I start anything knotted, I try out the thread size by passing it through a pearl twice, to see if 4 strands will go through. I also try a knot or two to see if the pearls slip.

[knotty panda]

Here's a diagram for endless knotting. http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/9555/knottedloop.htm The key is the locking half-hitch knots.

[Caitlin]

PS you don't have to wax Power pro thread, but you do need special scissors. Fiskars kid's scissors are OK, but I like thread clippers. They cost less than $3.50 a pair and go up from there. If you take knotted power pro strands apart, buy several of the cheap ones. I found one pair will clip a couple hundred knots before it dulls. The Fiskars are about $4.50.
http://www.perfectpatternaids.com/MyStore/images/clippers.jpg (http://www.perfectpatternaids.com/MyStore/index.php)
PPA THREAD CLIPPERS RETAIL PRICE 1 PER ITEM PRICE (http://www.perfectpatternaids.com/MyStore/index.php)
$1.85

[borah]

I've just tried my hand at making a pearl bracelet and I'm about to pull my hair out because I can't for the life of me figure out how to finish it. I'm missing something but I'm not sure what. So far I've been stringing and knotting with a single thread and making overhand knots on the first three pearls (I've been knotting the way it's shown in the video on the first page). When I try to finish the strand, I leave the last three pearls unknotted, string the gimp and other half of the clasp and go back through the first pearl and pull it tight. But how do I know how to leave enough room for the last three knots? Are those knots supposed to be overhand knots? I'm so confused. If I don't pull the last three pearls against the rest of the strand, I have plenty of space to make more knots but then there's an ugly gap between the last section of the bracelet and the rest of it. But I'm not sure how I'd knot if I pull it tight :confused: Help, please!

[jerin]

Hi Borah and welcome to the forum.
You are quite right you have to see that there is no space left between the last three pearls, you are doing quite right, making simple overhand knots. You keep it tight together by putting your finger behind the 4 pearl from the end (this one has a knot and sits "tight", then you just see to it that you are pushing the 3 final pearls tight against it, adjusting the thread by pulling. Once you have gone back through the first pearl (all the time adjusting the thread so it is close/tight to the pearl), you can put the bracelet down on the table, form the upper part of an "8", go through with your needle, pull the thread/s through so they go tight into the pearl and continue. BTW I always work with double threads. I hope you understand what I am trying to explain...

[pearlescence]

Hi Borah
You don't leave any slack or gaps. Pull the last three pearls tight and then you have to fiddle the needle through the tiny gap which will open up if you carefully and gently but determinedly bend the piece to about 90 degrees.
hope this helps
wendy

[Sueki]

Hi Borah,
Welcome to the forum.
Yes, as Jerin and Pearlescence state - don't leave any room at all for the last three knots; you will find that the knot tucks neatly between the pearls, as it always finds enough room no matter how tightly you push the the last three against the rest of the pearls.
Hope you post some pics. of the finished bracelet.....

[Nerida]

Hi everyone - does anyone else use their bent chain nose pliers to help get the needle out of the pearls as you go back through them? I bend my work to 90 degrees, like Wendy, but sometimes find that I still don't have enough room to pull the needle through with my fingers - using the bent pliers helps enormously - maybe I'm just a little in need of "remedial" help...

[pearlescence]

No, sometimes I use the pliers too - I don't use specific jewellery pliers though, I have my late father's WW2 CK fine electrical work pliers (much more delicate and precise) I have a pair with a pointed end and a pair which is squared off,. plus I bought some CK snips which I use for cutting everything.
Another tip, sometimes the needle tip gets stuck on a bump inside the drill hole. You can usually get it through if you turn the whole item around to the 'other side'

[Caitlin]

Hi Borah
Are you using one thread with a built-in needle? IMHO a single thread is much harder to get the knots snuggled in tight.

I really recommend you get thread without a needle on it and put it through the needle so it is doubled, then knot or clamp the end so the beads/pearls will not fall off.

I think I have a link with a place for getting silk on a card with no needle earlier in this thread. Then, if you find you like knotting, perhaps you should move up to spools of silk thread.

Hi Nerida


does anyone else use their bent chain nose pliers to help get the needle out of the pearls as you go back through them?


That is a fine idea, though many first timers should wait to buy a pair until they know beading is for them.

[knotty panda]

If I pulled the last three tight, I wouldn't have enough room. I slip my thumb nail between each pearl and maintain that spacing to do my end knots. Another way is to line up both ends side by side to gauge how much room to leave. Knowing how much room to leave is probably the hardest part of knotting but once you've got it, you're home free.

Pliers pulling needles? YEAH BABY!

[borah]

Thank you guys so much. I was so confused. I'd been using thread without a built in needle but since I'm starting over, I'm going to do it double-threaded this time around. I'm pretty new to pearls but this forum's been such a great resource. I'm pretty excited about this bracelet, I bought some really gorgeous lavender strands from Majestic (about 6mm, near round) and I'll post some pictures once I've finished. :)

[Raisondetre]

I'm planning on making a keshi rope with vermeil spacers. If I hide the knots with the spacers, I still have to finish it off, cutting the thread and zapping it. Is it possible for the thread zapper to ruin the spacer? I know it's of short duration, but vermeil is pretty much just a thicker gold plated silver. The melting points are pretty close, as it says it goes up to 1200 deg, I'm hoping Farenheit. I don't know if the silver will hold up.

[Pearl Dreams]

Raison, try on a spacer all by itself first.

[waimeamomi]

OK, I've been here a while, knotted a bunch of necklaces and read and read on the different methods. I usually use the Griffon with a needle, disliked by many, and bead tips and it has worked pretty well. I need to make a 2 strand bracelet with some Vietnamese silver akoyas, and decided that I don't trust the bead tips on a bracelet, and also it would be hard to put 2 on a clasp. I've been trying to follow the directions for using gimp and 2 strands for well over 3 hours now, and just could not figure out how to start and end the *&% things. I am so visual, I can't just follow written directions, and the video and pics on the site given way back on the first post doesn't really show that (or I'm really missing something). So if anyone else comes to this thread looking for answers, I'd like to post this site http://handiworkjewelry.blogspot.com/2008/10/re-stringing-pearls.html
and this picture which finally made me understand how to do it. OMG I am so obtuse some times. And for all of you that don't know how I couldn't know how - I just didn't get the little tail part. I knotted at least 4 versions and still couldn't get an end and a beginning. But now I think I can do it. Oh I hope, the bracelet gets picked up tomorrow a.m.
Here's the pic - Thanks to the blogger a million times!

[knotty panda]

So sorry to see this so late, Raison! I gues you know by now, no the thread zapper won't hurt the spacers.

Sheryl: Now I'm confused. Why is your thread doubled if you are using Griffin cord? Thanks!

[waimeamomi]

Oh, I'm not using Griffin this time. I'm trying to do it the other way with unattached silk, wax and gimp. Getting ready to start on about my 20th try.

[waimeamomi]

If I can find my beading needles that work. The table is a disaster, and I guess this is in honor of St. P's Day - the bullheaded Irish in me will not just give up and do it the other way. I'd take a pic, but I've been "pended" again.

[knotty panda]

I can't see your needle. But I see the thread isn't waxed. That really does make all the difference in the world.

[maryd]

These pictures help but now I am questioning my own technique.

1. If you are using two strands do you really need a knotting tool?
2. I have never started with more than one pearl on the strand. How do you tie the knot between the first 2 pearls so the knot does not get too big doing it this way?

[waimeamomi]

I think the knotting tool is up to the individual. I defer to anyone else on this, though - I just had a nightmare day and night with the bracelet. I'm going to bed now, and hope it still looks OK tomorrow. Oh my, I need a lesson - I just can't learn unless I see it.

[Bernadette]

Knotty, I always find it fascinating that every one recomends waxing
the thread, even when I was using silk I never waxed and I never had a problem.

I used silk for about six years, then through necessity not choice at the time I switched to kaygee thread - this turned out to be a blessing in disguise as the Kaygee thread proved to be superior for me, and I use it to this day.

Mary, I use the butchers knot(left over right) most recomend the surgeon's knot, I find this rather bulky. I also finish off the knot with clear nail varnish. Super glue is really harsh and detrimental to both the pearl and the thread.

waimeamomi, I reckon you are trying too hard! leave it for a while and then come back and try again its amazing how a break can relieve a problem.

[maryd]

Bernadette - Thank you again. You always have a different perspective and offer up great ideas. I had to look up butchers knot, but that definitely looks cleaner.

My question here is that by these directions you don't have free ends to work with. The needle is on one end and a pearl is on the other. Am I missing something? (would not be the first time)

Either way I am trying that butcher's knot on my next piece.

waimeamomi - I have been where you are and they are right. Take a break. Then re-read the directions and start again. I am Irish and stubborn. I have harmed many pieces and myself trying to get something to work when I am frustrated.

[Caitlin]

I am with you and the illustrator up until they pick up the tool. In stead, I pull it tight by pulling the two strands apart until the knot is up against the pearl. Especially, if you use professional polyamide thread such as Kaygee, or the thread Sarah uses from Japan, or spectra as in, Power Pro, the knots will be small and tidy.

[dkan 168]

I come across this video on YouTube, made by Rio Grande to demonstrate how to use a Tri-cord Knotter, which includes how to start and finish a strand.

Rio Grande's vid on how to use a Tri-cord Knotter on YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvZ1FE25AMM)


It is the same as the instruction DVD that accompanies the basic package that I bought directly from Tri-cord's online store, with one exception.

In Tri-cord's version, they use 2 pearls to start and finish a strand, whereas in Rio Grande's vid, they use 3 pearls.

I guess threading the thread back through 3 pearls, knotting in between will be more secure than using 2 pearls, however, I am not going to ream anymore pearls manually as that is hard work!!!

DK :)

[laurenb]

I have a tricord knotter destined for eBay because my results were so poor. The v-shaped part of the knotter kept cutting and fraying the silk! With two strands of silk or powerpro it's been pretty easy for me to do it by hand.

Have you had better luck with the pointy implement, Dkan?

[knotty panda]

Knotty, I always find it fascinating that every one recomends waxing the thread,

Hi! I'm not sure who "every one" is but I think I know who it isn't. I don't think our sponsor vendors wax their thread and the high end retailer I knotted for like you did, didn't wax either as a rule. I read on the board of people having trouble with thread becoming unruly so they give up on silk. I think that's sad. Some people don't have a problem with it.

The reason I like wax is it removes the static electricity from the thread which causes the two strands to separate and generally misbehave and it keeps me from having to use any glues or nail polishes as finishers when used with the thread zapper. I like not having to use unnatural products in my knotting.

You'll have to send me some of that kaygee so I can try it.

[waimeamomi]

OK, here is sort of what I wound up with. I struggled and struggled with the clasp, forgetting that I had a double one stashed at the back of my stuff. In the end, she had me switch it for a lobster claw (thank the pearl gods that I had a good supply of high quality open jump rings). That was 2 hours wasted (literally). I've never spent so much time on something. In the end I went back to a single thread because I was running out of time, and I know how to do it. I am going to put my bent nose pliers on a pedestal, they were the most important tool I had, followed by my snippers, and my corkscrew (I think that's what finally made me do the rational thing). I learned never to tell someone you can do something on a time frame unless you really know you can do it!! In the end, whatever method works for you is probably the one you should use.
Here are the pics, unless I'm pended - nope they're there. Be kind.

[pattye]

Very pretty, Sheryl, Bravo!

[knotty panda]

... and my corkscrew ...

That's the ticket! If all else fails, drink up! Nice work!

[pearlescence]

I use wax on silk (from my own bees!)

[dkan 168]

Have you had better luck with the pointy implement, Dkan?

I guess so, as I have not cut a thread while using it. I have to give my hands a rest from stringing though, as all the pulling made my hands rough and a bit sore :rolleyes:

A bit of a whimp I know :p

So I am definitely keeping mine, as I have better and more consistant results with it than without :)

DK :)

[knotty panda]

Pointy implement? Do you mean an awl? Or a reamer?

[dkan 168]

Pointy implement? Do you mean an awl? Or a reamer?

I believe Lauren was referring to my Tri-cord Knotter :)

DK :)

[knotty panda]

The pointy lethal thing on the tri-cord is the awl.

[dkan 168]

The pointy lethal thing on the tri-cord is the awl.

It's a bendy awl :p

DK ;)

[waimeamomi]

I have no idea what that means. I don't do that and I don't think anyone else does it.
I know that when I post pictures, often as not, it will say "upload faild" but the pictur shows up anyway??????

It's weird, I posted the same pictures in another thread and they were "pending approval" there like they were a couple of weeks ago, and on this one they just popped up. I think it's just something in the system, and I certainly don't take it personally! At first I just thought this project was cursed, everything went wrong, so I was glad when the pics showed right up here. It's all good! :)

[Bernadette]

Like you said Sheryl, what ever works for you.
I reckon you have done terrific job.

[softnsunny]

Supplies and prep.

Pearl.
See bead chart for how many pearls of what size needed to make what length necklace with and without knots.:
http://www.pmegio.com/bead.php .


Hi, Caitlin ... thanks for your instructions in this link. Most helpful! But I haven't been able to get any useful info from this link above ...?
Thanks,
Ruth

[Caitlin]

Sorry Ruth.
That link died. I sure miss it.

[knotty panda]

No calculator needed. This is knotted. If your strand is unknotted, just measure out one inch.

7 3MM = 1 inch
6 4MM = 1 inch
5 5MM = 1 inch
4 6MM = 1 inch
3 7MM = 1 inch

See the pattern? Easy to remember.

[softnsunny]

Lol, Caitlin!
Thanks, Knotty Panda ... *hug*

[bethdevine]

Beadalon also makes a great knotting tool. I have had good luck with it (after some practice!) with no fraying issues.

[pattye]

Thanks, Bath

Always good to have a recommendation!

[LBoone]

Caitlin, thank you so much for that information! And thanks to all the other posters that followed with more info ;-)

I have been beading for a couple of years now, but am still tip-toeing around pearls. This gives me the push to get started on some freshwater pearls I have (keshis and some stick pearls.) Then, off to turn my 2 graduated 36" strands that I never wear into 20" graduated strands I WILL wear!

[danachit]

Knotty,

That's a great little formula to remember. I was restringing a lavender, peach, and white necklace and it would have been nice to just count out. I will from now on. Thanks!
Regarding the tri-cord knotter. I can't say enough how much I love mine. The knots are so even and it's so much easier on the eyes than having to use a tweezer or needle...however, I will say I saw a gal use one that was a knock-off from the Tri-Cord Knotter and it razored through the silk half-way through the knotting due to a sharp edge.

So while I recommend the tri-cord, don't go with a knock-off. Get the real thing.

And regarding wax. I only string on silk that has has one good stretch and one drag through the wax. Never had any issues. :)

[newyorkdude]

Hi, pearl people! can anyone tell me how much length is added to a strand by the knotting? It would obviously depend on the number of pearls used, but, for example, if
a knot is 1 mm. then a 50 pearl hank would gain an additional 50 mm. ( or 5 cm. or 2.3 inches ) by knotting. Thanks, all.

[Marianne]

Plus the clasp :)

[newyorkdude]

yup, Marianne. of course, must include the clasp. so, any answers? i don't have a pearl strand handy to measure.

[Caitlin]

No calculator needed. This is knotted. If your strand is unknotted, just measure out one inch.

7 3MM = 1 inch
6 4MM = 1 inch
5 5MM = 1 inch
4 6MM = 1 inch
3 7MM = 1 inch

See the pattern? Easy to remember.
I wish we had the bead counter, but this works.

[newyorkdude]

i am a little bit dumb-- can you explain the number sequence? i am considering buying a hank of southseas, 12-14 mm. if you tell me the thickness of the knots, i will calculate the
number of mm's added according to the number of pearls. thanks much.
new york dude aka pearl freak aka nacre nabob aka "it's late and i just need to go to sleep"

[Caitlin]

I am sorry we are not better prepared.

I suggest you take the thread you will use and do a series of knots up close to each other. Count how many make an inch. Say you have 29 pearls and certain size thread. You will make 30 knots of the same thread. How many inches would that be?

I must admit, I have never counted this close,but the bigger the pearls,the fewer needed to make the necklace, thus the fewer knots.

[GemGeek]

With such large pearls, you have to use double knots to avoid them slipping into the larger holes. Some people use four threads instead of two and double knot with big pearls. Bigger knots = longer necklace. :)

[softnsunny]

A very late addition to this post. I saw some Kaygee spools at a trade show recently, remembered this thread, and bought some. And it's the best thread I have knotted with. There are only 3 thicknesses, in white, beige and black, but I manage ok. One between medium and thick would be nice :-) BUt what surprised me ... it is readily available, just re-branded with different company logos. Quite annoying really ... it looks like cheap beading thread, but I'm a Convert!
Ruth

[Caitlin]

Where do they sell it?

[softnsunny]

Umm, Shamrock craft sell it wholesale, craftontheinternet, Beads, Trimmings and Craft in Brisbane, and I think Empire Beads sell it too. I'd love to know what you think, Caitlin. Ruth

[Caitlin]

Bernadette sent me some years ago. I think it is fine. It is very good thread, not quite as strong as Ppro, but easier on the hands, doesn't stretch and makes good knots with good drape to the strand. I just never ordered any because I didn't know where. Are the sites you mention in Australia?

[softnsunny]

craftontheinternet and Empire Beads are online. Beads Trimmings and Craft have a large shop and also sell online. I think Kaygee will also sell wholesale, but I haven't checked that.

[pearl-man]

Hi
easy measure ...twice length for no knots + abit for tying off. knotting. 4-41/2 times the length.
all based on double thread fit plain stringing

We always knotted to second one came back and knotted and glued, Elmer's only (water soluable) never Chrystal or super!
Ialways had trouble stringing ack through three tight. ?)

Very good written instructions for ahard task.

Ran into someone who used agar-agar for needle. Twisting fingers and let dry. We use bees wax, and keep sealed to preserve moisture. We have big apiary near house so wax is least of problems.

[pearl-man]

Some time ago I found cord a Roy (spell) with big rills. (?) worked well for laying out and keeping track of pearls. I have old bead boards also. There is a new SS easy clasp, not cheap but easy for fingers to use, Pinching the clasp opens it to remove male plunger. Just pushing it in engages it.

[Marianne]

I think you are talking about wide wale corduroy fabric. That would work great for laying out strands! It might be easiest to find in the upholstery section of a large fabric store :)

[pearl-man]

not only don't I know how to spell it..I didn't know what it was called. My Ma used it for 4-5 mm. We do zillions adds pearls and when in production they can be laid out in the 2-3-or 4 pearls per neck. Rather than pull 4 from a neck the string. Try to do similar hand functions at one time
Norm