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Originally Posted by jshepherd Maybe I should preface that statement with the mention that I am referring to classic strands, not designer pieces or beading work. I would consider a strand of pearls not finished with french wire to be unprofessionally strung. I believe the clam shell you refer to is a type of crimp, which would never be suitable for a high-end strand of pearls. |
Jeremy is correct. When looking at a classic strand of pearls, you will find the thread tied off in one of two methods. The cheaper way out is to just knot the thread directly to the eyelet on the clasp. This
is usually indicative of a lower grade strand of pearls or worse, the manufacturer/retailer taking the cheap way out to save a few pennies in labor and material.
The second method is to use a French Wire. With the French Wire method, the silk thread at the end of the strand is threaded through about 1/4" of French Wire, then looped through the eyelet of the clasp. Next, it is threaded back through the last pearl and tied between the second and the last pearl. Alternatively you can also thread back through the third pearl also and tie off the silk thread again.
The advantages of the French Wire method are that it provides a very clean, finished look to the pearl strand and it also strengthens the end of the strand (both at the stress point of where the thread meets the clasp and providing extra strength through the second and the last pearl).
The "clamshell" or "bead tip" method is very inappropriate for a pearl strand. In this method you thread the cord though the bottom hole of the "clamshell" and tie a knot in the cord. After the knot is tied, you crimp the clamshell together and then crimp the "hook" of the bead tip through the eyelet of the clasp. The strength of this type of finish relies entirely upon the strength of the knot - as that knot is all that prevents the cord from slipping back through the hole in the clamshell. To help secure the knot, some cement can be applied to the cavity where the knot rests. This method work well with nylon cord, but not with silk.
There are other methods of securing a clasp to a string of beads, such as a crimp wire, or a cone, but the only one that is appropriate for pearls strung on silk thread is the French Wire method.